COE Where have all the COE builds gone??????

That's brilliant!

 

Thanks. It’s not often that I am told I have a brilliant idea. You still need an original fender with good bones but it replaces that front outer corner and wheel well bead that always seems to be munched on these big barges..

 

Was gonna keep chipping away at my projects but it’s kinda hard when the neighborhood is on fire!

 

That's truly scary! Best wishes from the East Coast, man! Be safe..

 

Good luck LOWCOE and all our California brothers .

 

We were evacuated for three weeks this past summer from our property due to wildfire. Definitely not a fun experience, and the fire was never as close as what your photo depicts; nor did it directly affect us before it was contained with the help of rain. Thoughts and well wishes with you lowcoe.

 

We made it through! I think I was the only one on my street that stayed overnight. I evacuated in 07 and swore if it ever happened again I would stay. ( within reason ). The fire followed the dense brush in the river bed that parallels our main east west freeway. Bout 5 houses were lost maybe a mile away as the crow flies. A cloud of embers blowing out of the riverbed was too much.

Still under a mandatory evacuation order but things are very calm. Power is out but otherwise all is good. Lived to build another day!

 

"Power is out but otherwise all is good. Lived to build another day!" --- Most excellent then, you don't need light to see, do some sanding and feel your progress...??? ;^)

Good news. Stay safe.

 

I actually have been doing some body filler and sanding by the light of day .... along with some yard work!

 

Posted before but I've been using mine.

 

Very nice COE Al. Tasteful.

 

My stalled project is shivering in the driveway.

 

Bought some chunky old former tow truck taillights for mine via eBay. Kinda excited about them. Does that count? I'll have to clean up some surface rust, paste wax, and rewire them for install. Guess I can work on that in this cold once they arrive.

Al's C.D.T. flick re-lit the flame.

 

I'm trying to come up with a shifter knob for mine. Sounds pretty simple, but in my case, it needs (I want) to incorporate 3 toggle switches and a push/pull headlight switch. [turn signal, headlights, hi/lo beam, and overdrives (2)] I'm just not getting any bright ideas!
General idea, but all wrong!

 

I cannot view many of the .jpg images posted on the site so I can't see your "general idea" post Wolfcreek. But the gadgetry of what you describe caused me to think of the auto shifter I am considering for my own:

https://www.powertraincontrolsoluti...ucts/Electronic_Shifters/Push_****on_Shifter/

I want to reduce as much clutter as possible between the two seats and put a padded console and storage unit there for my dog to ride with us and for some extra cab-based storage, possibly even cup holders at the front. So this PCS unit may be a great alternative to a column shift also. Pricey... but sometimes the right solution is worth it.

Still planning though... but I have already located a supplier in my region.

Without seeing your image I am ***uming/imagining that you are going with a column shift (???). Could you not incorporate some of that on slim curved panel just behind the center of the steering wheel. Your shifter gear position indicator could still stand behind and above and or just in front and below? This would simplify wiring inside the column yes? No?

 

Aside from wondering why you'd want all that **** on the shifter, I got nothing.. I envision driving down the road and shutting off the headlights during an upshift. No other real estate for those switches?

I think a shift knob like what would be a custom build. Maybe you could start with something, don't 18 wheelers have shift knobs with some ****ons? I also recall stock 2 speed rear ends with add-on push-pull knobs on the shifter. That might look right in your truck.

 

Here's a link for you SpagScot. http://infinityaerospace.com/product/featured/military-style-stick-grips/
Because of my unique truck and the parts I had available, a normal steering column was out of the question, so mine is home made with no provision for turnsignals or auto shifter. I am running an Allison 1000 which needs a PRND321 quadrant plus it has 2 electrically shifted overdrives. (computer normally shifts these) The dash in this cab is further from the seat than most, so reaching switches on it when turning and shifting would be a pain.
Unfortunately the 3 switches I need are dpdt toggles and they are quite large, so packaging is my problem. The good news is, with the very cold weather, I can sit at the desk in my nice warm man cave, instead of beating my head against a frozen wall in my garage. If it was easy, everyone would be doing it!

 

OK... I understand now that I have viewed the joy stick and read your rationale.

How are your wood working skills? Perhaps design and carve/dremel/drill a scale model from wood or alternately resin block and then have the item produced with a 3D printer? Then again if you construct it from a resin block you might simply need to paint upon completion?

The POR15 two part epoxy might be a useful material for developing the prototype(s) and even satisfy your needs for the end product. This material is stronger than steel when cured, yet easily drilled, tapped, and sanded/shaped to form. Shape it to fit your personal grip and tarsal reach as well? With all of the incredible industrial strength adhesives on the market you could also fix various metal components inside permanently once you get your design down pat. Inexpensive enough to complete multiple trials, but I think too that if you messed up... you could simply refill, add on more material to get to the final piece. Perhaps even using adhesive and ready rod inserts to add a "nodule" after the fact? I do know that you can press smaller bits into a void much like caulking and sand to shape as you proceed with a repair.

https://www.por15.com/POR-15-Epoxy-Putty_p_54.html

I keep this on hand at home always. Versatile is the key word here. Just yesterday recommended it to a friend who has a crazy number of choppers, Jeeps, and Mopars on the project list. Some hard to find and discontinued fittings can be reproduced with some patience and skill using this putty.

And of course you could mill an aluminum block if you have the skills and equipment?

You no doubt thrive on this already given what I witness with your skills: "Where there is a will, there is a way." You will solve this I have no doubt.

Idea as well: Check out the used science lab equipment on eBay. I have dismantled old lab ****yzers for various worthwhile toggles and and fittings for the household lighting fixtures/lamps I build as a personal hobby. Colleges often send collections of these items off to auction houses at year's end. And the local genius tech at a nearby aggie research station or college, even electrical mtce dude at food processing facility may have the skill set and or advice you need to develop the controls! Maybe some aircraft mechanic at a nearby base that services crop sprayers has something in a box on shelf?

 

How about on the steering wheel itself? New cars have all kinds of stuff on the wheel......cruise control, stereo controls, etc. Even old Fords had the light switch on the wheel......

 

Ultimately I want it to be some sort of exotic hardwood, maybe a laminated block. I have some really nice tiger tail maple but it is all 3/4 thick and would have to be milled thinner because of a poor planing job.
I bought a 3' stick of 2x2 poplar to use for mocking up some ideas I have, got that gluing tonight, so I'll start carving on it tomorrow.
Modern steering wheels have a multi lead clock spring deallybob in them to carry the current from the switches to the outside of the column, but transfering the system from modern car to home made column would be a lot of headaches I think.
If I can't make something work on the shifter, I'll probably make a switch console along side the shifter and an 8 ball for a knob. (I also have an ebay cheap repop Autocar knob)
A picture of my column. It will get dressed up with some type of cover or shroud, haven't given a lot of thought to interior decor.

 

I love "The Gauge Can 6"!
Just a cover on your steering column support channel stock could house switches within reach. Either on top or on the side. On the turn signals, I'd still lean towards a traditional Willys unit even if the self cancel wheel won't work so the UI is similar to most other vehicles. You could then use your fancy shifter ****ons for the trans, OD and NOS.

 

I haven't touched the Acar since January, but in a couple of days, I will be done with the last of other peoples (family) projects and be ready to start on mine.
First off will be a pair of bomber seats. Bought the upholstery material this past week. $33.82 at Menards.
Guess I'd better buy a rivet gun!

 

Just saw this build over on "the antiquated"
https://www.jalopyjournal.com/forum/threads/1947-ford-coe-build.1128675/

 

Be back in April. Finishing up restoration on my wife’s Airstream.

 

Settled on the engine position. Gonna need a little space under the bench seat for carb and air cleaner. Due to position of engine I think I will figure out a way to tilt the cab forward for engine access. Sorry about the photo mess....

 

That is as literal a COE as I've ever seen!
I might get that cab tilt figured out before I got too crazy with the welder
JML

 

Make sure you have room for you feet when all the accessory items are bolted to the engine. My engine is under my bed and it was a tight squeeze. I used brackets from Alan Grove in Louisburg KS. They allowed me to mount the alternator on the right side upper, a/c on left side upper and power steering on left lower. All fit within the frame rails and are low enough to clear the bed. I also run a very low profile air cleaner that hugs the carb.

I am not entirely sure their brackets would work with your valve covers.

 

I picked up an all in one bracket type kit a few years back and finally mounted it on the built 350 I had waiting for this project. Have about 3 inches to spare between the front cross member and main pulley. At this point my main worry is being able to get a driveshaft made up that is off 20 degrees in 2 planes and is only 14 - 16 inches long. This will mate the turbo 300 to the f350 dual axle. Gotta figure that out before the welder...

 

I had a driveshaft problem like you describe on an off topic project. I found a Jeep front shaft that had CV joints at both ends. I was only working with 140 HP, so you might need something heavier.

 

I was thinking about something like that. Also I think I exaggerated the angle. It’s probably more like 8-10 degrees in 2 planes.