Hello again everyone. Hopefully I'm not being too annoying with all of my questions but I want to make sure that I'm not rushing around to find everything at the last minute. I am curious who everyone has dealt with when purchasing certain parts. I have bought some stuff off of Mac's and Rock Auto. I also have the Dennis Carpenter catalog and have checked out a few other places online. Below is a list of what I need to finish the car. I'm hoping that people have already figured out the best places to order this stuff from so it saves me a little of the time. Also, if anyone has any of these things for sale, I would much rather pay a member of this forum for the stuff instead of some company. The car is a 53 Customline Club Coupe with a 215 I6. Here's the list: -generator bolt and nut (the long one) -master cylinder -front upper trim piece (that goes up to the hood and onto the fenders) -side view mirrors -horns -coil -fuel pump I think that might be it but I'm sure I'm forgetting something. I'll update it as I get the parts.
I think these are pretty cool, and would go with the style of our cars much better than the stock ones. Mack's Antique Auto Parts on eBay lists these as the following: Outside Rear View Mirror - 2 Hole Base for 1956 to 1965 Ford (B5AZ-17696-B) No base gasket or screws are included, but can be purchased from Mac's at extra cost. Also, I've got a new master cylinder that I'm not going to use on my project any more. Its a drum/drum style Mustang and is a near bolt-on for our Fords. See my build thread for more info. I'll take $50 plus shipping for it. Let me know if you want it. Hope this helps. Eric
I would like that master cylinder but the probem is the brake light switch. I could use that inline setup that you're gonna use but that's another hundred and some odd dollars. I was figuring that I would just buy a stock one for now since all the lines, hoses and wheel cylinders are new. I don't really need to worry about having a single feed master cylinder with all new parts.
It's up to you, of course, but all you'll need is a br*** "T" to install an in-line brake light switch. You'll need to split the feed so that one reservoir feeds the front, the other feeds the rear. The beauty of the dual reservoir master is that should one "side" fail, the other remains functional to bring the car to a safe halt. The single reservoir master does not have that backup feature, and even though the rest of the system is flawless, a master cylinder failure means complete loss of brakes. I got the master I offered to you with my car. The previous owner was going to use it to replace the stock master while retaining the stock brakes. He p***ed away before installing it. The proportioning valve block is for disc/drum installations like I am in the process of installing on my project Victoria. Stock drum/drum brake systems like the original ones on our Fords use different size wheel cylinders front/rear to accomplish the same thing. The master is still available if you change your mind.
I hear ya. Let me price out what it would cost to get the fitting and a new switch and I'll get back to you. I agree with you on the dual res master though. I've had brakes fail on me twice with a single res. Not fun. Thank god for emergency brakes!
Oh, eric....one last thing...what needs to be done with the rod on the master to make it work in our cars?
I just bought a newly-released "low pressure" in-line stop light switch on eBay for $9.95 plus shipping. Here's the vendor: cl***ic_performance_cpp Gets the lights on a lot quicker than standard switch. 30-40 lbs for the low pressure switch as opposed to 80-100lbs for the standard switch. The "T" is an auto parts store item. You'll need to cut and flare the line to install it, usually done in the rear line. See raceron's recent engine compartment photos for an idea of how the lines are run. His is a dual reservoir drum/drum setup, too. As I remember, the rod was too short by about 3/8 of an inch on my car and needs to be extended. But it may be a different dimension on your car, so be sure to do your own measuring. Also, as I mention in my build thread, be sure to allow for the eccentric free-play adjustment in the bolt on the pedal. Cutting and welding is easy with a mig or tig. You can cut up a bolt to make the little piece needed to make it longer. Easy as pie...as long as you measure carefully first. Good luck!
I want to give credit where it's due on this. John - aka on the HAMB as streetdreams - is doing most of the work on my '56. He fabbed all the plumbing for the new brake setup and might answer any questions you have on yours. He does great work and really knows his Fords! I'm just an old Ford parts guy and currently an Army (civilian) Maintenance Manager for construction equipment. I spent years behind a parts counter and now I write or review Army Tech Manuals & verify maintenance and service procedures for the troops but don't ask me to do the work!
Like what was posted the rods seem to vary in length,in my '54 the stock rod was perfect in length with the Mustang master.I also found out that a local clutch and brake rebuilder has rods available in different lengths about $5-6
That's perfect. What kind of fitting is that into those lines and where do I get it? Is there a side shot of that so I can get a better look at how me installed the brake light switch? Could I just use the rod out of my old master or will it still be too short?
Hopefully raceron will have a side shot for you, but it's really not all that difficult as long as you can cut and flare tubing. The tubing and fittings are available at any auto parts store. The rear reservoir feeds the front brakes, the front reservoir feeds the rear brakes. The front and rear systems would no longer be connected as they are originally. The switch goes into an in-line "T" fitting in the rear brake line. You're done. As Jeff mentioned there seems to be no predictable pattern to rod length...or at least none that we know of. The rod in the master I have was a bit short in my car and would have needed to be made longer. It may fit differently in your car, so be prepared to change the length of the rod by cutting and welding, or by replacing it with another of the proper length as Jeff suggested. To find the proper length you'll have to put it all together on your car and measure. I just can't think of any other way to go about it. Good luck!
Work that pays the bills will get in my way of going to the shop until Friday. I'll try & get some better pics of the master cylinder and stoplight switch setup and post them. I'll also get with John on the parts he used to fab the connection.
Nathan, I talked to John regarding the stoplight swith, he said it's the stock/standard swith that's used on '56 Fords so you should be able to order or buy it using that application. I only replaced it because the car had been sitting for so many years and to prevent any problems with it later. Fittings are a standard br*** T; the straight ends flared for the brake lines and the T is a male 1/4" (I think - check your switch to make sure) pipe thread with a coupling to connect the switch. Ron
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