Hot Rods Where to get gauge holes cut in SoCal?

all of the above, and drill from the backside, that way if it does wiggle a bit, who cares, its on the back side.....

 

sawzall?? you fellas are to high tech for me, i was thinking more like using a torch!

 

Ooohhh, really? Harbor Freight punch? Good luck with that.

 

Ha ha ha ha ha ha ha ha

 

the knockout punch works good if the panel you are working with is flat, if it is curved at all its gonna get ruined. like most of the posts suggested i would use a hole saw. but i would drill a hole the same size as the pilot bit then use the hole saw. if you dont pre drill the panel you run the risk of accidentally pushing the whole saw into the panel and when it bites either breaking the arbor, twisting your wrists, or heaven forebid screwing up the panel you are working on. hope this makes sence.

 

I'd buy it for the hydraulic unit, the spacer, and the studs, throw the punches away, and use Greenlee's,. but I'm biased because I love my Greenlee punches.

 

If you like send your dash to me and I will cut them for you $50 a hole.

 

Thank you, HAMBers. You guys are allright.
The mention of a Sawzall was an attempt at humor, but probably not a good one.
I took my dash to United Speedometer in Riverside, only to find that they had mysteriously downsized from a palace to a shop about 1/2 the size of a one-car garage. They said at one time they had the correct size punches but were somehow lost in the transition. I was just looking for another shop that might have them.
I'm sure I'll do what I usually do, and that's buy a tool for one-time use only to find out later that a friend had one that I could have borrowed. Oh well, that's traditional for me.

 

OMG...now I know why Lil' John Buttera used idiot lights in everything.
Gauge holes were too much of a challenge!!!!

(kidding BTW! LoL)

 

I've been avoiding this thread, but I couldn't resist and had to see what it was all about. Seriously... A drill, a hole saw, and about a minute per hole. I don't understand what's so difficult. Installing the gauges takes longer than putting some holes in a panel.

 

Some of you guys who use Greenlee punches need to show us where you buy them in those odd sizes. Need 2-5/8", 2-1/16", 2-1/8", 3-3/8", 3-1/8".

 

If you have one nearby, check with Platt electrical supply. They'll have the full line that's available, there are odd sized knockouts available (I have several), and they can find other brands that'll work for you.

I had one set made by a machinist at work for me, it didn't take him very long, I needed an odd size for a job I was doing. If you go that route, I suggest you follow the "slug buster" design, it seems to cut cleaner and the pieces are easier to clear from the die.

 

Mc MCaster Carr
http://www.mcmaster.com/#knockout-punches/=azlj3s
2 1/16" is tough to find, use the 2" and a light file, same with the 3 1/8 and 3 3/8

 

This is good advice. I ended up doing that after I broke the stock bit that came with the arbor.

I don't know if it's been ementioned but doing this with a drill press (vs. a hand-held drill) will net you better results, as well.

 

The other nice thing about using knockouts over holesaws is that the knockouts have marks on them where you can line them up on layout lines. Basically, if you draw a crosshair where you want your gauge mounted, you can drill your starter hole, install the knockout, snug it up, and then line up the indexing marks on the die, guaranteeing a perfectly placed hole.

 

torch? You are way too high tech for me, Chisel & a BIG f***'in hammer is the only way to go. Torches are only good for making toasted cheese samiches...

 

Take Jimmy up on his offer, you will learn a ton. Hi Jimmy!