Which Flathead inlet manifold works best..

I am looking to start getting some wake up parts for an early V8 Ford (before zero )...I know that there is a range of inlet manifolds available, but I want practicality over looks.The car is totally stock at the moment and is getting lowered and warmed and juiced and a set of "modern" `40`s steels lol.It will not be getting raced, but I want a car that can keep up with modern day traffic, as I intend to drive this car frequently...I`ve heard that some manifolds are no better than the stock item.

Hopefully getting a pair of heads,fitting dual exhausts and a pair of new Strombergs and maybe a magneto.So, if anyone can say for definate ,due to experience, which ones to go for and which ones to stay away from, I`d be grateful.

 

In the spirit of the holidays I gently suggest that you do a search on here to find abundant info to choose from. Then, also gently suggesting, in the future post what year flathead and car you are working on in order to get appropriate answers to your questions. Good luck with your project.

 

I don`t know if I`ve just been poked or not..but respectfully, if you look at the first two lines, it will tell you "exactly" what car/engine I`m using....
I searched for specifics but did not find any that answered my question..I`m no computer search expert ,sorry.

 

Thanks Ryan, `preciate the input...

 

From what you have indicated it looks like you want a "dress up" for your motor and not too much interest in spending a lot of money for hi-performance. Check this site items for sale (and the big auction site) and look for just about any 2x2 intake manifold that fits your budget. There will not be much difference in performance unless you get into an expensive thickstun or the like, Then try to match it up with a set of aluminum finned heads, make sure you check them out for warpage and find out if they have been cut down before. The intake will usually run about $175-250 depending. The heads you can get for $250-500 depending. Then if you want the 97's you are talking about spending some money, like $200-450 each for rebuildable or rebuilt or new. You can find a set of Holley 94's (look for 91-99 or 59 models) for a reasonable price and then buy the kits from a reputable source so you don't end up with chinese or india junk. You might want to consider headers whcih will give you a little boost in performance. The best IMO are the Fenton cast irons which run about $300 a set but you can get steel ones for $150 or so (they sound kind of tinny to me). You want to do some research on your ignition, maybe go to 12V if you haven't already for better fire. You will need a fuel block for the 2x2 and a regulator. Most people switch to an alternator (1 wire) setup which requires an adapter. These improvements might add a nice boost to your engine and look super. As you can see it won't be cheap but it is money well spent if you want to have a great looking and running flattie. Good luck.

 

I have always been told a low rise two pot is the best for drivability and reliabitlity. The reason for the low rise is in cold weather a high rise takes a good while to warm up. Also a dual exhaust to go along with that two pot. For reliabilty over looks I would not run a magneto, or at least not an old vintage one. I would run electonic ignition plate in your stock ignition.

 

Ah, yes the newer kinder HAMB - does your dishes and is gentle on your hands too....

I use an original Navarro 2 x 2 with 97s on my 59AB - nice road manners.

 

31A , just the opposite...I don`t want ornaments hence the question "what works best"..I don`t mind spending money on a part if it is an improvement...the motor is old and I just want to warm it up and help it breath easier....I want to keep the integrity of the original car as much as possible..nothing fancy, just a hopped stocker.I was offered a Fenton inlet manifold with a pair of rebuilt 94`s for the last motor I had, but was told they performed badly and to save my money...heard the same about the low rise Eddie Meyer..I`m just trying to get accurate feedback...thanks for the reply.

Irondoc, whats the problem with running a mag on a strret car?..again wanting to learn about this...thanks.

 

I have a fenton 2 carb on mine works pretty good ?
but I`ve been told they were not the best performers
I`ll be watching this thread

 

The Thickstun PM-7 was available as a Dealer installed option for Police cars and Ambulances, back in the day. Maybe they knew something. . .

 

Ahem. If I may interject what I consider to be a most constructive criticism, in the interest, I ***ure you, of your achieving complete and utter satisfaction in your endeavours....your desire for a harmonious marriage of streetability and performance seems incongruous with your plan to employ a magneto.

 

Navarro Intakes flow the best. The PM 7 takes some time to warm up and then works but they are hard to get.

 

I don`t want ornaments

You mean, except for the magneto and the new Strombergs?

 

whats the matter with the Strombergs??a pair of brand new unworn carbs ..beats me.

as for a mag...tell me about it....I`m hearing good and bad on this, whats the issues?

 

Even Mallory, who sells magnetos, recommends that you do not use them on gasoline engines unless it is in a purely racing set up. You can go to their website for all the spark duration and advance gobbledegook.

 

I've installed a super dual Offenhauser on my 8BA and have been very pleased. I used two 94s with straight linkage and the stock fuel pump. Keep in mind that a new intake will not be a straight swap: you may need to relocate the generator/alternator a**** other parts. I also replaced the stock dizzy with an MSD box, coil, and electronic distributor. If you are more interested in ease of use vs. appearance, I'd recommend 94s over Strombergs due to cost and complexity.

 

Most magneto set ups for the flatty have a fixed advance for high rpm and no auto advance mechanisms for low rpm & load pulling. Mags were set up for full out raceing back then.

 

Edmunds work well and can run the generator without a side mount.
Edelbrock tall, like the Thickstun
Edelbrock slingshot

 

So, which Ford flathead is it? It makes a difference. 59A, 8BA, Frenchy? I think thats what 36bird was getting at.

The flathead is quite limited to RPM which hingers "keeping up with traffic" no matter what you do to it you will probably want to go for some gearing.

 

I was running three 97's linked progressive for years and was never happy with the performance on the street........I went to a Thickstun PM-7 from Tony Baron last year......linked the two 97's in unison with .043 jets and stock 65 power valves.......it runs strong and the gas mileage isn't bad at all.........also an Isky #88 cam.......it feels real good!

CB

 

Which Flathead inlet manifold works best??
The one your buddy has, that's been residing
under his workbench, collecting dust for at least
the last five years, but won't sell to you because
he's saving it for a mythical car 'that he's (never)
gonna' build some day'!

Mart3406
=====================

 

If you have a basically stock engine your best bet to keep up with traffic would be an overdrive unit or a T5 trans then spend the money on a good upgrade, stroker crank, cam heads carbs ect............

 

I'll go along with Roseville Carl on the OD or T5 conversion for "trafficability" on the modern road. A well tuned single carb basically stock flattie can keep up just fine with one of those setups or a 3.24:1 V8 rear gear set (which may be pretty hard to find these days) hooked up behind your stock 3-speed box.

 

Thanks guys, I realise about the upgrades besides the inlet....it was this particular component that I am trying to figure...I recently had a french block and 4"crank,I got it machined to 276ci,Isky 3/4 cam,Edlebrock heads,ported and relieved,Eddie Meyer hi rise,new Strombergs,s.s valves,Fentons,Full flow oil system,Mallory electronic Distributor,T5, etc,etc,....I sold all that off with all my other stuff and aquired my latest car(fully stock)....the clue is in the first line of the first post ...just trying to be discreet and hoping that the people who have the right answer would understand the cryptic...I don`t want to use anything repop on this car...not being ****, just a task I`ve set myself, as I feel this car deserves all original parts.....The mods mentioned by the guys on here are all good proven items..I did not know that the magnetos were not really streetable, but it seems the case by concensus on here..the inlet manifold question never gets a definative answer really, so i thought before I sunk any time and money into getting one I`d ask people who have been running flat motors for years and could p*** on good solid advice in this area...I`m not looking for the "super rare look at what I`ve got" stuff, just the best improvements to make in each area...I don`t want to yank the motor and go to town on it as it is a 21 stud pump in head ,so it will not stand a whole lot of modifying I would guess.

I`m a useless letter writer, but I hope it makes sense.

 

Has anyone run the new Slingshots yet? How are they on the street?

 

The Thicksen (sp?) PM-7 is offset to the drivers side. Because of the flatty offset of the cam the intake runners in the block are longer on the drivers side than the p***enger side. With the offset the two sides become more matched and probably improves breathing. Joe Abbin has done a lot of flow testing and dyno testing on the flatties and found that te best set-up for a flatty (actual aspirated dyno tests) is a 3-carb with 97's and progressive linkage. If I remember the gain over a 2-pot was around 10HP.

You need to buy his book, order it here for $25.00

http://www.roadrunnerengineering.com/

 

I haven't tried every manifold on the market but I have run the popular ones on the dyno and the Edelbrock Super showed the best drivability and improvment for us.
I would stay away from the "new" Stromberg's.
Get a couple of rebuilt originals from Uncle Max and you will be happy.

 

Wow...really? Why's that?

 

Tell us more why is this???? Whats with the New Bergs???