Technical Who can make me a set of throttle blades for an Edelbrock carburetor

I'd sure try plugging them before replacing them. I've removed and replaced them before, but only because I didn't know better at the time. Wasted a lot of time getting them to seal up properly and not drag or stick in the throttle bores.

If I'm remembering correctly, the throttle blades in most carburetors have to be hand fitted to the throttle bores to allow for variances in manufacturing tolerances and throttle shaft location. In the closed (NOT idle) position they need to fully restrict air flow, but not fit so tightly that they can stick in the bore. The angle on the edge surface also helps prevent sticking. They also have to move completely freely through their full range of travel to prevent the throttle from sticking open or not fully returning to idle. It can be an especially tricky job if they've been removed and not marked for their original position and orientation.

During a normal rebuild or repair it's recommended to NEVER REMOVE the blades from the throttle shaft. That's part of the reason the why their retaining screws are staked in place. And it's really not necessary, unless you enjoy spending the time and frustration of hand fitting them back into the throttle body. There's a lot of trial and error involved. It can be a tedious and time consuming chore to do it properly, especially on a well used carb with some wear around the throttle shafts.

Of course if you're replacing a badly worn throttle shaft, then you have no choice. Just make sure to note the throttle blade's original location and orientation in the shaft. And maybe cut back on your intake of Starbucks and Red Bull for the day.

 

I don't recall them being staked on any Edelbrock that I have worked on.

 

I did the same thing years ago and just soldered up the holes...Worked fine and lasted till I sold the car.... No issues..

 

I just noticed in the 2v carb I am rebuilding that I had bronze heli arced the holes in the throttle plates; like over 30 yrs ago!

 

That why you weld. Or in this case solder or silver solder. Tig, hmm. I wouldn't. But if you do, please post those pictures.
But that said, I picked a s**** one up the other day for $40. It ain't pretty, but it was cheap enough.

 

Actually, it was advertised for sale at $40 and I think I got it for $20

 

Maybe tell edelbrock you need a new shaft with blades? Maybe they’ll sell it that way.

 

Soft solder would work fine. I could get them done nicely in a few minutes each. And with soft solder, if one screws up it's no big deal to just do it over.

Silver solder requires red heat or more, which will for sure distort them. Glue (JB Weld etc.) stands a very good chance of coming out with constant exposure to gasoline spray.
As has been mentioned, the bevel on the edges needs to be very precisely made, plus the plates are slightly oval, meaning it would be hard to make up replacements.
Laser cut will not produce a fine enough edge to seal against the throat.

 

I agree trying to over thing the wheel here . I have filled many with air gun / shot gun pellets , or fishing sinkers staked into place . Do try to recreate a plate , very complicated angles that need to be matched to the bore correctly . I have seen tons of carbs tossed aside because of replacing the throttle shaft bushings and getting the correct plate into the correct bore and correctly aligned . You screw it up and she will let you know , by whistling Dixie for you while idling .

 

Well like I stated before I've got a set of primary plates that I can get and the same person is looking if he has a set of secondary plates. I'll check back in at the end of the weekend and let everyone nobody know what's happening. If I can't get a set of secondaries I will fill them somehow

 

No welding, it will warp the plate. Soft solid rivet 1100 pure aluminum works magic.

I’ve made them before it’s not too difficult. Round stock in a lathe with the end machined at the ****erfly angle. You need the bore diameter and the angle of the ****erfly edge in closed position

 

Not if it's engineered out, a procedure drawn, a WPS followed.

 

Couldn't you just braze up the holes?

 

A throttle ****erfly is a very small surface to be gambling with. But I suppose with the right heat sink and a fast hand, it could be done

 

I don't think that I'd be too skeered of a drop of solder or staked lead plug getting ingested. Soft as a marshmallow. It would p*** out the exhaust port pretty quickly with no harm to the head, piston, or valves.
Might have some potential to mess up a sparkplug, though.

 

For the right $$$$$$$$$$$ many sets can be properly made. 2 would be higher.

 

Yeah - that was my thought. Grab a donor. It'll Cost less than machine set up time.

 

They actually make a silver solder that does not require as much heat as jewelry grade silver solder. it is used in the electronics industry I have a few rolls here. I am sure that it is either hybrid grade of silver (alloy?) or lower silver content. (this is just for clarification to my former statement, not to dispute your answer).

You are absolutely correct JB weld does not like constant exposure to gasoline or other caustic solvents. They have improved the JB Weld that we used 40 years ago but I am not sure that they have developed a solvent resistant product yet.

 

Constant exposure.
While no stranger to northern exposure, indecent exposure, underexposed or plain old over exposed, I just don't think JB weld used in this situation, of constantly exposed, will be an issue if used in filling those holes when applied like a rivet, then allowed to cure.

And because it's been well thought, over thought, and foolishly thought, couple small pieces of tuck tape to plug the holes would probably do that job. Both sides and call it done, stuck together and the hole sealed shut.

Automotive | Gas Tank Repair | J-B Weld (jbweld.com)

 

Is there a downside to a panhead screw and a nut?

 

Weight.

 

Must have a heavy foot to get through it

 

It is best to be minimalistic in this application

 

I would think a piece of solder stuck in the hole and smashed would work

 

If ****erfly is lets say .080 th thick with 1/8 hole cut a piece of 1/8 solder cut .100 th or .110 th put threw hole lightly smash in hole , No heat ,
It will not just come out , if it did out the exhaust. I remember engine builder using Epoxy down in intakes.

 

Like I said….smush it lol

 

I would probably put a aircraft quality pop rivet in the hole. Go to a aircraft supply like Aircraft Spruce or Wicks and find a Cherry or Apex rivet of the proper diameter and grip length. It’s key to get proper grip length and diameter. Cherry or Apex rivets encapsulate the pulling stem so there is no chance it will fall out or leak air. There is also no chance of distorting or warping the plate with heat. Five minutes and the jobs done and permanent.

 

JB Weld tank epoxy,https://www.amazon.com/J-B-Weld-821...668988335&sbo=RZvfv//HxDF+O5021pAnSA==&sr=8-3 Should fix it right up.

 

I tried making a throttle body, about 15 years ago. I don't remember ever actually using it, so I don't know how well the ****erflies need to fit for proper idle. I don't remember much about how I we did it. But this thread made me remember that the round stock turns into an oval due to the angle of edges for the ****erfly.

 

""You are absolutely correct JB weld does not like constant exposure to gasoline or other caustic solvents. They have improved the JB Weld that we used 40 years ago but I am not sure that they have developed a solvent resistant product yet""

What is used by the head porters to fill ports and intake manifolds? Not welding it is some kind of epoxy.