Who has a STRAIGHT 6 in your HotRod? Come On, stand up!

Here is my other chevy 6, the 235.
Did a little more detailing tis weekend.






Posted my 261 last November at post#369 ...

 

Here's my chevy 292 project. Not finished yet. Still have to finish up the carbs and build a linkage and hook up electrics and such. Relatively stock aside from a 194 head. Fresh rebuild. Only other performance items are a pertronix Ignitor ignition and the items you can see from the outside. This is in my 1940 Studebaker business coupe.

 

My turboed 225 slant next to my Dad's blown 225 slant who posted on this thread 4+ years ago.

 

Wow, three boosted inline hotrods in a row (yeah, last one's a,.. Ford?). Is that the Buick GN turbo setup on yours? How do you like it?

 

I have a 33 Plymouth 5W cpe with about a 65 230 6 w/tripower,runs great.I also have an old custom made sports car on a Henry J chassis with a Kaiser supersonic 6 with twin carbs.

 

MAN, some sweet pics being posted lately.
Love the 292. He's "oldsrocket", so or course he paints the engine gold.

Right on, people!
Keep 'em coming!



6narow

 

Gold seemed fitting. Goes with the look. Screen name came from a long time ago when I owned an olds. Wish I could change the name, cause I don't know much about the olds engines anyway.

The 292 is hooked up to a 200R4 trans. The rearend is a 10-bolt posi from a firebird that I will be installing a 3.42 gear in. Right now it is 2.56.

I just scored another good running 250 engine for cheap. Gonna stash it away and hope to sometime in the near future start some sort of landspeed/salt car project. I'd be interested in hearing from those with 6 bangers that do this type of racing to see what I'd be getting myself into.

Lots of nice inliner pictures being posted. I'd be interested in seeing some detailed pictures of throttle linkages that guys have come up with for use on the 2x1 offy intakes for the late chevy inliners.

 

The 200-4R has the tallest 4th gear of any of the recent 4-spd auto OD GM tranny's (.67:1), so if you're going to use a deep gear in the axle, that'd be the tranny to use with it (depending on how strong you build the engine).
I think Offy actually offers a linkage to use with that intake.
If not them, maybe Clifford.

...I wonder if someone does the "Wayne 12-port" head for the 250?



6narow

 

There is a linkage that comes with it, but I can't figure it out even with the instructions and I'm an engineer. Either there were parts missing or the linkage rod was made wrong. It basically looks like a bunch of spare parts that were vacuum sealed to the package. Junk in my opinion. Whoever wrote the instructions and drew the diagrams needs some serious help. Cause they don't make any sense and the drawing are ambiguous.

Rear gear will get swapped eventually. Have teh 3.42 on the shelf, but what to see what teh 2.56 does just for the hell of it. Might end up with a 3.08 by the time it's all said an done. We'll see.

 

"There is a linkage that comes with it, but I can't figure it out even with the instructions and I'm an engineer."
LOL! Man, that must be SOME set of instructions!
Any way you could modify what you have to make it work, or would that entail a total redesign?

2.56 x .67 = 1.7152:1
That's a pretty tall "effective". Depending on tire height and terrain, might be kinda hard on the torque conveter and/or fluid (unless you're running a tranny cooler).
Sure would loaf on the freeway, though.
Personally, I would be more inclinded to run a 4.10 gear with that much OD. Would really squirt off the line and still give a pretty "relaxed" engine speed on the highway.



6narow

 

Yeah... pretty much what I'm thinking, but you never know until you try. 4.10 would have me revving pretty high at highway speeds. Once I get it up and running and can get a vacuum gauge and tach on it, I'll be able to figure out what it needs. Biggest thing is getting it on the road to see.

Redesigning the linkage would be a waste of time. Starting from scratch would be more time efficient from the looks of it.

 

Got One and love it!! 250 with auto gets 20++ and can bark the tires in 2nd almost every time, one barrel too....

64C10 Big Window Stepside...I need to drop the springs..

 

this is mine almost ready to go into my 54 chevy truck

 

That looks great, coolerthanethan! I suspect you have all the engine bay clearance issues with firewall, steering and shift linkage (if it's still stock) worked out. Sweet stovebolt.

 

Say, if you go back to page 30 in this thread, and scroll down about 1/2 way, you'll see a post by "Lowfat" (post #592).
He appears to be running 3 1-bbl's on his 194. I think you can make out the linkage in the picture on the far right.
...also, "29Nash" posted pics of the engines he's running just a couple of posts before the one you made.
He's running 3-1's on a 292 and 2-2's on a 250.
Either of these guys might be able to shed some light on your problem.

....btw, check your PM.




6narow

 

Wayne, no, Sissel, YES!

1 PORT PER VALVE, YES!

ALLUMINUM, YES!

CROSS FLOW, no.

Still gotta scream by comparison.

 

3.42 X .67 = 2.29


What was it you are putting this in?

How tall are your rear tires?

I ask as I had fits trying to get decent info when I was buying the initial set of gears for my avatar ('31 A Tudor, yes untraight 8, camed up some too, but bear with me). Most of the people I asked for advice from (in this day of them driving nothing without an overdrive) warned me against going too deep in the gears. I was warned aginst going under 3.42 with 3.55 being the deepest possible to 'run on the street'.

Well if you do the math, that works out for 1:1 final and approximately a 26" rear tire (+/- 0.5"). With my setup being equiped with a 28" tall rear tire and .68 final (T5) that works out to (@3.55) 2.414. I had enough sense to know that was too tall and I fudged to 3.70 (2.516 combined). With the cam (and the aero drag) it's virtually impossible to use 5th and keep the carb out of the power enrichment (vacuum below about 7" Hg, it buck a bit under any load if I go lower vac # on the power enrichment). So I'm looking for a set of 4.11's or 4.30's to try.

Not perfectly relevent, just a cautionary tale, mismatched long gears will kill your economy just as bad (if not worse) than too short a gear set, and without the performance benefit.

So give 'er a try, but don't bet the farm on 3.42 (but then you may not be driving a parachute like I am).

 

got a 236 flathead long stroke mopar in my dodge. Kickass little motor. Moves the 10000 pound truck ( fully loaded ) real nice. Gotta drop a gear to climb hills at 20 mph though.

I got a straight 8, but those arnt important at all.

Got some other 6 bangers too. Great motors. I love em!

Anybody wanna buy a 41 nash flathead 6?

 

i have a six in my 1959 holden, its a holden 179ci from 1963, its now 208ci, it has a 12 port head of a later model wich has been ported, relieved, cc'd and fitted with os pep pro valves, it has roller rockers, manley pushrods, solid lifters and a custom ground solid blower cam. it has a copper head gasket and has been decked and o' ringed and has acl race series pistons with a deep dish machined into the top and later model holden connrods, its balanced, line bored and bored and fitted with a bigger counterweighted crank from a later model holden 202ci 6, the whole internals are bolted together with ARP bolts as well as the flex plate and stall convertor, fuel pump is holley blue and ignition is crane hi6 trc, these motors are like a smaller version of the chevy 6 and were very popular in hotties here in the 60's, 70's and 80's.
also im sure the aussie charger in a performance version with 3 carbs on a six was faster than any mopar product 0-400 metres in the era it was made. they ran about 14 but with todays modern tyres owners of restored cars are getting below 14.
i have 6's, but our family taxi my wife drives the kids to school in is a v8.

 

Nexxussian,

Thanks for the suggestion of the Sissel head. I'd completely forgotten about that one.
As for your gearing woes, yes, I'd say even without the knowledge that you're driving a "parachute" (love that term ), that effective gear ratio with that size tire would seem a bit prohibitive to me.
If you were adventureous enough to push your A to 60 on the freeway, that would give you an engine speed of approximately 1785 RPM, using the 3.70 gear with the tranny in 4th (2.479:1 effective), with the lock-up torque converter (works out to 1900 w/o).
Seems you might have a fairly warm cam in it.
Dropping to 4.11's would speed up the engine to 1983 and 2112, respectively.
If that "unstraight 8" is an SBC with a 'vette cam in it, you might actualy want to run the 4.30 gears, although the 4.11's w/o the lock-up would probably do ok, on the freeway.
--------------------------------------------------------

FCCOOL,

E49's rule!




Goodonya, mate.



6narow

 

here's mine just got it really not sure what size it is

 

perfect.

 

T-5 circa 1992/1993 0.675 (commonly called .68) overdrive with 3.70 and 27.8" tire (it's easier to just call it a 28" tire, not that much diff in revs).

I would love to have a 4.30 to try (anyone got a 31 spline 9" dropout set up like that I could borrow?).

Believe it or not, Small Block Ford.

I put the AFR 165's on there (with the idea of camming conservatively, and still being able to wind it as would be apropriate). Seems no one builds a 'short deck' 327 to drive on the street, everyone wants to wind the daylights out of it. So I had Comp grind me a stick that would work with those heads (and the rest of the setup), but keep the curve low(er) in the rev range. It works amazingly well. It'll pull from about 1400 in just about any gear (was trying to make sure the rings seated) but I prefer not to lug an engine (unless it's a diesel, or maybe a tractor ).

It does okay on the highway, better if I can follow a truck though.

Err, lets just say it does amazingly well @ 103 on a smooth level hard surface (ain't tellin where).

No the car doesn't look quite like it does in my avatar anymore (better wheels / tires for stablity and speed, and lower by about a foot).

Oh, and my whole purpose of posting about gears (my previous post) was as a warning, as it sounds like he's going on the same bogus info I was getting force fed about apropriate gearing (I could be wong, he may be putting it in a Crosly Hot Shot, with 22" tall tires, that'd be a scream ).

 

Oh and with a Hays 95-201 clutch set, I sure hope it's locked up in gear.

 

When I first got the car I was kicking around building a 4.0 stroker (bored out to about 4.7 or 5.0) but The kits for those aren't cheap. Plus to get all the power out of it I would have to run with EFI even more money I really didn't want to spend. I'm still on the fence about building it with the 360 or a straight 6.

 

Nexxussian,

My apologies. I misread your earlier post. I replied thinking that was YOU who was considering the deeper gears with a 200-4R.
----------------------------------------------------

AmericanHellbilly,

The 4.0L did come carbureted for a few years before the EFI thing kicked in.
177 HP, straight out of the box....but, its your car. Do what you want.



6narow

 

If I didn't have the row yer own affliction, I might, not that different an OD ratio and the converter would likely make up for the higher gears (somewhat) in 1st.

No biggie, I missed that was where you were coming from, so I figgure we're even.

 

Wasn't someone selling a 'manifold' setup for those to use DCOE (side draft) Webbers (or their Delorto equivalent)? Not free, but should be able to scrounge that for cheaper than most aftermarket EFI.

 

The last one is a Well Built 4 cylinder Iron Duke Boat Motor and will kick all of our butts.

The setup is a 231 Buick kinda the same thing as a 301 Pontiac plenum and turbo. As for liking it...so far so good. I've only had it out about 4 times and right now it's regulated at 5pounds, but will bump it up when I get all the little stuff fixed. Certainly more exciting than my dodge slant 6 truck that I drive everyday.