I need to have my '54 Chevy gauges re-done to work with 12v and a small block. I was wondering who would I send it too and about how much does it cost. Thanks, Tim
Go to a good parts house, tell them you want a voltage reducer for the gauges for a 66 mustang, standard part # vrc603, put that in-line to the power source to the gauges, done deal..........
The mechanical oil pressure gauge isn't high enough for a SB. Instead of changing it i just used the 0-30 psi gauge and as long as it stayed pegged I was happy. The rest of the gauges can be adapted with a voltage reducer as said before. Dont pay to have them redone. You dont need to do that.
Be careful, that's funny Petejoe!! Thanks for the info on the reducer BobbyD, not to high jack the thread, but I was getting to the same point in my build and was wondering this as well. Good question TERPU, thanks for asking.
Cl***ic Instruments offers this service, but I couldn't tell you how much they charge. It's best to call and ask them directly. They are a top-notch operation...I'd trust them with any of my stuff. ~Scotch~
Thanks to all, will the fuel sender work? I have a 6 volt and a 12 volt, if I drop the voltage to the gauge which one do I use? Alternator same question, how does it work Mr. Wizard? I like the oil pressure suggestion. Lastly the temperature gauge, how do I make that work. I know enough questions, Tim
I don't think any of the senders need to be changed. They get power from the gauges, which you already used the voltage drop to bring back to 6v, so they are fine.
I did the ford voltage reducer thing. Went Schuks autoparts and asked for a gauge voltage reducer for a 64 falcon. Paul
I got a quote from CL***ic instraments to have the factory Panel redone in my 49 Chevy. $3,200!!!!!!!! i about fainted.
You will need 2 voltage reducers, One Low amperage for the guages, this will work the sender for temp(if electric) and the fuel. One High amperage for the heater motor if its still 6Volt. You can also do a search for the 6 to 12 volt conversion on here if you aren't sure what else needs to be done. Alternator will be internal regulated or external regulated. How you wire it will depend on the type. Just some of the basics. There is also a good book out there on the complete conversion, not sure who published it.
I had gotten a quote form a place in Howell, MI at around $80 per guage... that means you're looking at around 320 bucks. The speedo will work if you hook it up to a T350. It's a little off, but you get to know it and you can make some good educated guesses as to how fast you are going. I use the chevy mechanical oil pressure for now and an Auto Zone temp guage that's mounted under the dash. Screw the ammeter. I think I'll know when my alternator is dying.
Rather than playing with the stock ammeter, use a Chevy 3-wire 10SI or 12SI alternator and wire it to trigger a dash warning light. Who really sits there and watches thier voltmeter/ammeter anyway. Here's a thorough article on the 3-wire alternator. Hope this helps, Ed PS- On Chevy Advance Design trucks, you need to wire a voltage reducer into the fuel level sending unit or you'll fry it with 12V. Not sure how things worked with the p***enger cars, but I'd definitely do some research. PPS- Most parts suppliers sell individual "converted" gauges for the Advance Design trucks. You can buy an oil pressure gauge that reads to 60 PSI, a temperature gauge that's set up for the small block, etc. If you don't already have one, get a Chev's of the 40's catalog and see what they offer.
Famous last words! I had a battery cable starting to corrode internally. Car started fine. Drove about 5 miles, went into the store, came out, started right up again, drove another 10 miles, went inside for 5 minutes, came back out. Dead Now the amp gauge works!
I couldn't find anyone that recognizes that part number. Ford dealers in Canada said it was a US number and the Us Dealers said it was obsolete and gave me a different niumber that was also obsolete, however, this number was good at Napa and the guy (in Canada) had it for me the next day. The Napa store in the US said he could get in a day too. Ford number 39MZ10804C and the Napa number was IRI ECH
http://falconparts.com/1960-1965+FORD+FALCON+INSTRUMENT+PANEL+VOLTAGE+REGULATOR.html i think this is the one you guys are talking about. for the gauges, it basically fluctuates volts from 10v to 0. giving you your 6-8 average. gary.
I was thinking of looking in the junkyard for 12 volt fuel and temp gauges that would be close enough to swap into the 6 volt instrument panel, even if could swap the electrics onto the original gauge face/dial or find something close enough for a "bolt-in". You could probably find a 12v sending unit that would swap also. This would be much less expensive. My local yard has a wide variety of stuff-and I enjoy the hunting. Mechanical temp, oil and maybe some amp gauges would not need to be changed. overspray
the only gage that actually runs on 6v on a 54 chevy is the gas gage, you can use that voltage reducer mentioned, or use a 7806 electronic voltage reducer (this one needs a good ground too), put the reducer in the power feed circuit for the gage, not in the sender side of it. speedo, temp, oil, ammeter, etc will all work as is, although the temp and oil gages will be running high most of the time.
Haha I do when its nighttime and my turn signal is on at a light! Tick (up) tock (down). Darndest thing not having a radio for so long...
squirrel--is the gas gauge sender voltage sensitive? If not, it would be easy to swap a 12v gauge into the cluster (GM IH Mopar), except maybe with Ford fuel senders. overspray
the mid 1960s and older GM gas gage senders were all 30 ohms, you can use them with either 6 or 12v GM gages, but it's nice to use the correct voltage to feed the gage
I didn't see this one posted but try my uncle at Clawson Cl***ic instruments in Anacortes WA. http://www.markclawson.com/
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