Got some work done on the dash today. New radio mount plate - Note: see the factory "tab" for dash knobs on the bottom left side of the radio hole, I am going to replicate that on the right side. I tack welded in the side piece, then trimmed, hammered and welded some more until it fit just right. The gap is really not a gap, just the camera angle. The gap disappeared as I rolled it down as I welded. Same with the bottom edge, it hung over, but as I welded, I also trimmed it to make it fit just right. I welded several beads inside the corner so I could grind the corner down and give it a big radius. Going to match the tab on the p***enger side next. Heater A/C control panel moved to the overhead console. Better than looking at it on the dash. Still needs work as the faceplate looks too home-made. I might sink it into the console. I will need to lengthen the vacuum lines, so if anyone knows a good source for hose, let me know.
From the driver's seat, the console feels good, but it was not good location for the radio, because it took my eyes off the road too much. Might have been OK with an easier to operate radio.
My hearing is shot, so that radio could sit up there for years and I'd never turn it on. For some reason a radio really bugs me where ever I am. When my wife goes somewhere with me, she carries her own music with her. I guess I still should put one in the Autocar. I think I'm going to put all my air gauges and controls in an overhead console. Once you get them set, they shouldn't need much attention.
I am (still) trying to pick out gauges and a steering wheel. I like both of these wheels. I am also tempted to get the 1946 Ford horn ****on emblem and mount it in a modified billet horn ****on. Anyone ever try doing that kind of a horn ****on modification? . Remember, my radio doubles as the back up camera. Plus I like LOUD music, it drowns out the wind noise.
I removed the switch pad from the left of the column and re-mounted it under the clock face. Only one small weld left...just a tab behind the dash to mount the wiper switch.
QUESTION - What are the proper types and order of materials from filler to finish paint? (basecoat/clear coat or single stage enamel I always apply filler over bare metal with 36 grit marks...and sand it in stages up 150/180. Past that I am not sure what to do. (I did a lot of lacquer jobs, but I think that was way different)
I think now days they are recommending epoxy primer first then filler, but things have changed so much, I would go to my local paint/bodyshop supply store and ask the questions. When things go wrong they are the ones that have to guarantee their products.
I recently read a post (somewhere), from a person in the know (I believe he worked for the body filler manufacturer), who said...filler over bare metal. I have no issues with that. My issue is with primers...epoxy, urethane, acid etch, polyester, etc. Which is used and when?
Filler over bare metal is fine....I've been doing it for 30 years with no issues. If you have lots of bare metal after working your filler, I epoxy everything, then go over that right away with filler primer(within 24 hrs). Let that shrink out awhile before you block it.
Any guess how much paint will it take to paint a COE cab (inside of doors and dash too), the bed and in my case , my storage boxes?
Mines kinda a dash swap, I'm using part of a 56 F100 dash and hand making the rest. Im using Dakota VFD gauges and some stainless accents to give a art deco flavour. The interior will be red leather, sewn by my wife. Not forgetting the swap to right hand drive in the process. I know it sounds like a mixture from different eras but i think it will all pull together.
This would make a cool swap http://www.jalopyjournal.com/forum/threads/complete-1954-oldsmobile-dash.970353/
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