I was victorious at the swap today. I found the last Rochester 2bbl to match the ones Radshit gave me!!!!! Now I need to turn them into a Tripower setup. In the October 2001 Street Rod Builder(buyer?) they installed the parts from Automotion and built their own (upside down linkage and all) I called Automotion and the parts sound sweet but...$500. This includes their kick ass linkage and all. But, being a HAMBer with a pile of linkage in the shed, I may just try it myself. Anyone here built up thier own end carbs and such? I know the mods needed such as removed idle circuits etc..............just looking for a little 411. Thanks
Hey T-man did ya get any replies on this? I'm getting ready to do the same thing for a sbc and need the same info. Is this for that 348 manifold I sold ya?
Wholey shit! 65 reads and only one reply?????!!!!! Curly, I did not know you were here!!??????? Yes, it is for my 348 Tripower
T, threeduece56 built his on his SBC in his 56 pontiac.He used 2G rochesters and it works kickass.I've driven the car and you wouldn't even know whats on it for carberation.It runs so smooth.PM him and he'll fill you in.He didn't do any fancy chit with the outer carbs either.....Shiny
Those carb bases from Hot Rod Carb. are well worth their cost. I used them on the last 3 deuces setup I did and the thicker blades really seal well at idle without sticking. Damned air leaks at the blades in the bases and around the throttle rods seem to cause most rough idle problems. Take your time and make sure there's no light coming around the blades when you look thru them closed. Rods should be tight but not sticky. The carbs can be reamed and rebushed and new oversized rods are available if you have too much slop, but it's easier to just get the new bases and bypass all this wear fixing and blade adjusting. K&R, I like that linkage setup. Especially the throttle return spring bracket and the bent upper rod. Looks old school.
K&R: Is your set up to have the outers come on from the start, just slower, or do the start to open later?
K&R- Where did you get the billet clamp on the progressive part? Did you make it? Is that all-thread on the two short lower sections? Is that just a nylock nut on the rod that connects to the rear carb? How did you shorten the arm on the rear carb (to make it open faster, so all three carbs will be a wfo at the same time)? Did you just use trial and error to figure the length of the arm? What is the upper rod made of? Stainless?
I put together an Eldorado 3 X 2 system. I'll try to post pic's when I get home. I used the Speedway linkage and extended throttle rod. Next time I will make my own it shold be a piece of cake. Before you start double check distributor and water neck clearance with your manifold. TZ I am still having tuning problems with the center carb off idle, but it runs strong.
Tman, thanks for bringin' this up. I'm getting together parts for one of these myself. Best part so far- I've snagged a real secondary carb to copy when I build my secondaries. My only question is where to get the longer throttle pivot rods? I destroyed one of mine along with the butterflies when I disassembled the carbs so I can't just modify the one...
[ QUOTE ] K&R- Where did you get the billet clamp on the progressive part? Did you make it? Is that all-thread on the two short lower sections? [/ QUOTE ] The two lower sections are pieces of stainless rod threaded on one end to screw into the end links, w/lock nuts. The rest of the rod is unthreaded. The two billit pieces have set screws in them and are adjustable. The larger billet piece slides on the rod from the rear carb. At WOT, the large piece hits the smaller piece, and opens up the end carbs. [ QUOTE ] Is that just a nylock nut on the rod that connects to the rear carb? [/ QUOTE ] All the nuts holding linkage to the carbs are acorn nuts [ QUOTE ] How did you shorten the arm on the rear carb (to make it open faster, so all three carbs will be a wfo at the same time)? Did you just use trial and error to figure the length of the arm? [/ QUOTE ] That hasn't really been worked out yet...at WOT, the two end carbs do not open all the way. But yes, once it comes down to it, it will just be trial and error. All of it is stainless. For normal, sedate driving, the center carb is used but doesn't open to full throttle. When you stomp on it, the progressive linkage catches the two end carbs and opens them up. This has NOT been tested yet but I don't think there will be any problems.
All the little knick knack pieces and carb parts can be had from vintagespeed.com I have heard bad things about buying complete units from Charlie Price, but the pieces I bought came in pretty quick with only 2 reminder calls. If nothing else you can get a look at how the linkage is set up from all the pictures. TZ
I searched through old posts on the HAMB and found that Hotrodcarberation in Mo has all the parts at a good price also.
I thought I had a close up of the linkage, you can see a little bit of it here. It's set up as a pusher. The shaft extends to the pass side with an adjustable length arm. That arm pushes a link to the rear carb. I run almost 75% on the center carb before going WOT on all three.
Nice pics...........driving impressions? Jet sizes you run? secondarys sealed or idle circuts intact?
Here's a setup from the good ol daze. In my 50 Ford coupe fwiw. Straight linkage is used and it was trouble free. With some of the cheap-o progressives available then along with their PITA problems in operating correctly I built my own straight linkage utilizing 1/4" Heim joints from the bearing house and threading some rod. Not sure if the rod was steel or aluminum, I think the latter. Carbs used were as they came out of the junkyard except for cleaning and sticking in a rebuild kit in each. We didn't even change the jets. All carbs had an accellerator pump. They ran great on the 335" mildly built Olds engine, idled well, drivability was fine and the car cranked off quarter miles at 100 flat right at 14 flat. I do like the progressive linkage on K&R's intake. It looks to be a trouble free deal. I think you guys would be way ahead to copy what he's done rather than buy some of the POS progressives still out there. Geez ... some of them have bent wire for the slider. That's a disaster waiting to happen far as I'm concerned.
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