Ok so we set up the model A with stock 46 type stub axels all geometry in alignment was perfect. Alas the powers that be down under require crack testing here , big fail so no real issues on the fail , so rather than spend more $ crack testing we fitted new stubs and bolt on super bell steering arm for Vega cross steer. Awsesome . Not. The bolt on super bell steering arms are 3/4” longer than stock 46 cast in arms . So tie rod ball joint hits pitman arm and drag link hits sump due to the longer arms measuring from backing plate CL to tie rod CL . What am I missing here. ????? Or does someone else make the correct OE length arms of 3 .375 “ measured from backing plate hole Cl to tie rod CL.
Just had a brain fart , now as drag link hits lower hair pin on LH side as we are RHD . Perhaps if we used the tie rod end with the extra eye cast in for drag link , it could ( just maybe) allow enough hair pin clearance and sneak in some sump clearance, though not enough to give 2” plus sump clearance I doubt. As the drag link goes closer to the sump as it goes left and right. Arrghh. Stock shallow drop steering arms with hair pins on a 4” so cal axle. We already have a rear sump Y block and everything fitted perfectly first go round, til super bell entered the picture.
It's always something...I hear your frustration and try to get a technical drawing of the part you are getting ready to buy..... looks like the crack testing paid potential dividends though....it is one thing to loose brakes....you can steer into something to stop......but loose steering....
Never had a problem with the Bell arms, used 100's of pairs in my chassis business? Check Ray at Roadster Supply. He has a lot of right hand steering stuff that I'm sure is cleared for use in your country. Much of it is manufactured by an ex Aussie.
Doesn’t matter LHD or RHD the problem would be the same. We set the car up with stock ford stub axles and all was good with a socal 4” axle . Maybe being naive assuming bolt on super bell steering we the same length as stock ford . If we had used super bell arms from the git go we would have had to either raise the engine up or set it back an inch. If it was remotely possible to get a drawing of the part we would be living the dream .
I'm not pushing Roadster Supply but at the bottom of the page showing each different arm is a drawing with dimensions
Well wow @krylon32 never knew that The actual measurements existed. I have visited the roadster supply folks a couple of times and always found them super helpful. And this proves it. Awesome thanks Gary, you sure know you way around old jalopies.
Allowing for human error the pictures prove it happened. 3.375 is the number that they ( the roadster supply company ) use ,not the incorrect super bell 4.09. I think we will be calling the roadster supply company today. Maybe get the bolt through ones so thread engagement can be easily verified. Probably what our engineers require.
makes you wonder if someone lurking here, has an OEM one that would pass the crack test before they sent it to you.. either way...good luck
Yep . We have a flew OEM here , these ones cost a box of beer to get tested, but in the future it would be $150 pair. We decided it wasn’t worth the risk to find more originals with cracks . I am thinking that this pair was an extreme example though. How many of my other old fords have similar issues, I don’t want to know. Any future bolt on steering arms must be the correct ford length and with proof that they are forged or investment cast S/S. plain cast steel is not allowed here. Not easy to find.
I sold lots of Roadster Supply steering arms in my final years in the chassis business. I like the thru bolt design. Never had any negative customer blow back about the arms.
Yep I think we will go the bolt through type as it clearly shows how much thread engagement we have . All our steering components ( hairpins,tie rods , drag links etc) have to have a 1/16 hole drilled 1 1/2 x the diameter of the rod from the end to show thread engagement.
Looking at both of those cracks I'd say that that spindle was involved in a serious impact at one time or the other. A Jeep CJ tie rod end shouldn't be that hard to find in Australia.. This just shows what they fit for hunting one down. IF the threads are the correct size. You would still have to shorten the right hand thread end some and rethread it. The taper of the hole is correct for using it on the left hand side on the back side of the axle as viewed from the AU drivers seat. Meaning that the drag link end would go in from the back side.
Yes I have one of those in my pile, but the extra ball joint hits the hair pin . And I can’t raise the steering arm because of sump issues already.
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