Hook a voltmeter to the battery and see what the charge rate is at idle to 1500rpm, should be somewhere in the area of 14 volts. Aside from that you need a bench machine like ours to do some of the fancier testing on it.
voltmeters are good....sure, connect a volt meter to the battery, see what it is before you start the engine, then at idle, and then revved up a bit, and maybe at idle with the lights and fans on. any time the voltage at the battery is more than what it is with no load, then it's charging. any time the voltage is less than it is with no load, then it is discharging. typical no load battery voltage is around 12.5v or so.
Yes, you will. Use a Standard VR166 or Motorcraft GR540B electronic regulator or equivalent, or one that bolts to the back of the alternator like a Transpo or what Falconparts.com sells. That one might be easier for you to wire up. I can't remember off hand, but I think the 60 amp Alternator is Lester number 7078 I don't think the newer Ford alternators with internal regulators will bolt right into the older alternator brackets... Maybe someone has experience with that?
I had a newer stereo in my Pontiac, just a basic JVC cassette deck, like 25 watts to 4 channels, other than that all stock. That car would eat generator brushes like nothing - of course, I kept changing them for whatever I could find used, but still, I must have put 4 or 5 sets in it in 30,000 miles. Over the course of two generators, at that, I think the one on it now was intended for a '57 Olds. That's the only reason I'd consider changing. One yard I was in scrapped a mess of generators and I pulled as many brush sets as I could fit into an old coffee cup, just to have handy.
i have push started my 55 pontiac...it has a 4 speed hydro in it (automatic). i rolled it down a hill, got up to about 25-30 mph, and put it in gear...it fired right up.
Sounds like there was something else going on like a faulty regulator here or a problem with the generator.
If Generators where so good we'd still have them on cars!!I've run GM alt. on fords( cars can't read!!).worked fine.The bone yards are loaded with GM alts, pick up up, adapt it to fit then runa wire from the main terminal to the battery.Cut the 2 prong plug off the alt you're taking( leave about 6" of wire on it).Then splice the wires to a single wire, run it to the Ignition side of your ignition switch & cranker up. JimV
I'm guessing the hydramatic is a rear-pump tranny then, cuz our '58 Olds manual says you can do the same with it. I just charge the battery...
And if flatheads, nailheads, banger motors and slant sixes were such great motors, we'd still have them in cars too....
I was going to say the Same thing. I push started my old 76 Ford F100 a bazallion times when I was in High School and it had an alternator. Cannot say about the battery being totally dead, but I can say about it not holding a ccharge enough that I had to plan where I parked (for a good push start) from one paycheck to the next so I could get a new battery.
It seems to be charging even with the lights on, stereo, and fans running. Flat at Idle though. Anywho, since its workin I will leave it for a bit...thanks to everyone for help...
"Flat at idle" is pretty much the nature of every generator equipped vehicle I've ever owned. Like I said in my first post on this thread, they don't do much at low rpm. If you're not going to let it sit around idling for extended periods, and you don't have any amp-sucking electrical accesories, and it's currently working, then all I'd do is check out the brushes and bushings/bearings to make sure that nothing's about to fail, and drive it.
UPdate.... The econo has a radiator fan, an inside fan, a memphis audio system(hidden of course), and compressors for air bags. No issues with the generator...knock on wood. I upgraded the battery and the ground....thats it!
Double Deja' Vu. Pinto alternator, Buick engine, two roadsters. Both, rebuilt, w/external regulator. Alternator is reasonably sized, not overly large. Regulator is under the seat in the 32 with the rest of the wiring. 31's regulator will probably go on the firewall inside. For the life of me, I don't understand why people sweat running a regulator and a couple more wires. Plenty amps for a basic car. 65 Amps, runs ignition, heater, wipers, MSD ignition amplifier, headlights, taillights, running lights and a radio when I get one set up. Easy to mount with two or three bolts. Both setups were just under $50. for alt and reg. 49,000 miles and 15 years on the 32....
My 35 Amp generator in my 55 DeSoto works GREAT...unless its night time with the headlights on, wipers running, and the defroster on, and idleing. Then the battery takes over. Unless you need to be period correct, I'd switch to an alternator...
It's probably not a problem here, but something else to think about. I have slung the segments out of the commutator (sp?) on generators a couple of times. They really don't like high rpms. Not a problem with an alternator. Larry T
Alternator is merely a technological upgrade. Unless you are running more electrical equipment that taxes your output, stay with the generator.
I recently had my Generator rebuilt ($120). plus the Voltage regulator($80,lifetime warranty) and haven't had any problems. Why didn't I switch to an alternator? I looked into the Powergen ( http://www.powermastermotorsports.com/powergen.html ) and Genernator( http://www.gener-nator.com ) setups that use the factory brackets and are built in a generator housing. But the cost of them was high. List price was from $500-900! I will probably go that route when I have all the other work done on the car. Since my car doesn't have the bolt holes on the block for the '63 Tbird alternator brackets,I'm only able to use the brackets for the Generator. I'm NOT going to use some goofy-assed "universal fit" bracket to mount an alternator. If your Gen and VR are doing their job,you shouldn't have any problems.
Its your car, build it your way. I myself like using alternators. In fact, a trail rig that i built had a welder/alternator under the hood for repairs. http://www.premierpowerwelder.com/ Back to street driven vehicles. I plan on using driving lights, a large stereo and do a lot of short driving. The power output of the alternator simply meets my needs. Plus the last generator that I had lost its brushes on me 50 miles from civilization. I drive too many miles to have to remember to replace brushes that often. I generally drive vehicles for a minimum of 200K then refurb or replace.
This is one of those debates that goes on forever with no real right and wrong. Simple facts though are; 1. Alternators charge better at low RPM 2. Alternators, even early version are rated at higher output amperage 3. Generators didn't do a great job when they were new. I can remember dad and granddad having to jump cars more than anyone I see today (and yes I know battery technology is better now too) 4. Generators definitely can't keep up with the myriad of electrical demands we now out on them - Especially electric fans, those things draw big amps. 5. Generators are known to "Throw solder" at high rpm, and since this is a Hot Rod board, I'm sure many of us are turning high rpm 6. Generators will work on a stock car about as well as they ever did. 7. Alternators have been around since 63 so you decide if it's "Period Correct", if you care. 8. 3 wire alternators are better than 1 wire - do a web search and you'll understand. OK, I'm done
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