You are correct, tommy. Stable temp is the key to motor life. On the old cars, I drain my system twice a year, don't flush,per-se, but filter the old coolant in paint strainer when putting it back. I run a 160 in the summer, have for 40 years. Change to a 180 in the winter(heater/defroster works better). Test the old one on the stove in boiling water before re-using, any hanging up or doubt, goes in the trash and get a new one. Always test the new one before I install it.
I think the results of running without a thermostat would depend largely on the design of the cooling p***ages inside the engine. The thermostat (or restrictor) is not there to slow the water down, it's there to build block pressure. The pump pushes water INTO the engine and the thermostat restricts water flow OUT of the engine. This forces the water into all the little nooks and crannies inside the block and heads, hopefully keeping the temperature of the metal more even throughout the engine and reducing the possibility of hot spots and detonation. Now, at cruising speeds this may not be a big deal, but at high rpm / high loads it can make a huge difference. I know from experience that race engines run better and last longer with proper water restriction than without. As a side note, most stock type water pumps are designed for max effieciency at 3500 rpm. If you are running a lot faster than that much of the time, pay attention to the pulley ratio between the crank and pump. Many factory pullies are around 1:1, which overspeeds the pump at higher rpm.
Well, its a huge controversial subject and I was one never to follow rules unless I prove it out. I have stats in the family car and that's it. My avatar is a 33 BBF 460+ cuin with 2x4 intake. I have never run a T stat. I do however run an upper hose restrictor I made on my lathe. Summer I run at a steady 160 cruise and 180-185 heavy traffic and its about 3/4 inch flow orifice. In the winter I just remove the upper hose and replace it with the 5/8 give or take and I get the performance I want and don't have to worry about overheating due to stuck stat. To me it just eliminates another modern marvel I have been able to do without for the last 40 years in my street rods and daily truck that I run around in. As to wear on internal parts its no more than normal and my current block has 200,000 miles + and just bored so all the **** about parts wearing out and failing due to not enough heat-Would have to see it to believe it. Leave T stats for the computer junk and FI-I don't need it
90 percent of motor bearings/crankshaft/camshaft, etc. wear is at startup, when the motor is cool/cold. Without a thermostat, block/heat temp fluxuates drastically. It's obvious; The motor is ALWAYS going to run colder than it would with a thermostat. Motors are designed to run at a median temperature where expansion brings running clearances into optimum. Running clearances change with temp variations. Stable temperature, resulting in stabalized metal expansion/contraction, leads to longer motor life. No, running without a thermostat don't ruin a motor straightaway, but it sure as hell don't help it. Constant change, contraction/expansion with the fluxuation of block/head temp.
you go down a steep hill without a thermostate, it may cool off too fast and crack the block Except that with no thermostat, the radiator water is still over 100° F. and (since it was cruising) probably no more than 20-30° F away from the engine water.
Wait a while - someone else will ask the same question in 5 minutes, and the same nonsense will be posted as answers. What I'm going to make (if I ever get around to finishing any of the stuff around here) is a "Y" manifold coming off the engine (Chrysler LA) and splitting into 2 thermostat housings in parallel, the another Y back to the rad. The problem, of course, is where to hide all the **** - I may put it down alongside the radiator. The odds of both failing is about 1 in a million, plus it speeds up the reaction time to add water or build heat.
Wait a while - someone else will ask the same question in 5 minutes, and the same nonsense will be posted as answers. What I'm going to make (if I ever get around to finishing any of the stuff around here) is a "Y" manifold coming off the engine (Chrysler LA) and splitting into 2 thermostat housings in parallel, the another Y back to the rad. The problem, of course, is where to hide all the **** - I may put it down alongside the radiator. The odds of both failing is about 1 in a million, plus it speeds up the reaction time to add water or build heat.
I ran my 302 powered Falcon street car without one to try it a few years back and it would never heat up and ran like **** .It wouldnt even get over 160 degrees on the freeway and it also puked coolant from the radiator overflow when i would shut it off without being hot (not sure why).I put the 180 thermostat back in and it ran great again and didnt puke coolant.Like others have said some heat is required for proper fuel combustion .I have ran a drag car with just a big washer in its place and it worked well .I ran it without a stat so i could circulate the water in the pits to cool it all the way down faster with the electric water pump ,without running the engine...
Engineers have spent time and had the resources to research what works best go with thier recomendation and use one. that being said this topic has been covered before sooooo many times and its an topic that not everyone will see eye to eye on.
yep i bought a 49 ford witha small block in it, every100 miles or so it was low on water sure enough no thermostat they dont put them in every engine for nothing.
If you choose to go with out . make a disc the size of the thermostat and drill a hole the size of a dime and all problems solved .we do it on race cars all the time .c
The last SBC I bought didn't have one, and I'm guessing didn't for a very long time. When I pulled the valve covers off, I could hardly see the rockers. Worse build up of sludge I've ever seen.
its an topic that not everyone will see eye to eye on Yes, but it's not a "I like chocolate, you like vanilla", where everyone's opinion is worth listening to and there is no correct answer. Some of the statements are simply wrong. Everyone can do whatever they want, but no one is helped by "explanations" that have no factual basis. If you want to run a restrictor plate you'll get similar results... but only after the engine warms up, and if the weather and engine use are the same as what you planned for. Yes, thermostats fail - I've had very bad luck (when I was broke) trying to get 1 last year out of something I would throw away now. Saving $6.00 and getting stuck didn't look as stupid then as it does now, but avoiding this by not running one is like reducing the chance of getting a flat by 25% by only using 3 wheels. Think: what manufacturer wouldn't just leave out a part that does nothing, not shiny, not visible, not a sales feature - and just keep the money? Remember, they reduced the body panel gauge thickness many times, reduced the number of wheel lugs, made suspension parts castings instead of forgings - the accountants run things, not the engineers.
If you use mostly water or 50/50 antifreeze mix, use a quality 180° thermostat all year round, regardless of climate zone. Some engines run better with a 'high flow' thermostat which also doesn't stay closed if it fails. Some waterless coolants like as much flow as possible and are more efficient without any thermostat during the summer.
Exactly,I asked my uncle who works at modine as an engineer and that is what he said too.It creates higher pressure in the block from the pump,you will actually have higher pressure in block than your rad. cap.So you need a restrictor at least to make it work the best.
Hmmmmm...... OK let's think about this. Tens of millions of Detroit engines all came with them, a few get stuck here and there. Put one in and change it every 2 years. Trust the engineers.
I'm in Miami and have been running a 350 SBC in my 58 Apache without a thermostat. Runs at 175° all day every day, for six years now.
Thought I'd bump this up after a heated (and beer fueled - haha) argument at my shop last night. Poorboy Chris's flatty powered Model A roadster had overheated and was puking coolant when he arrived at our club Halloween party, and the conversation eventually turned to thermostats. Probably won't change anyone's mind but here's a great link from Griffin Radiator's site: http://pirate4x4.com/tech/billavista/Cooling/#Myths If you want even more info check out "Automotive cooling system basics" by Randy Rundle. Everything from the basics to rocket science about cooling, the effect of different engine oils, aluminum vs copper, coolant additives, Evans coolant, etc. - even has a chapter specifically about flatheads. Anyway, had Chris leave the roadster overnight so I could let it cool off and check it out today. Turns out it has a blown head gasket.
The Jalopy Journal
