I would like to convert my standard hub 32 model A front end to a wide 5. Is it possible to just change the drums or am I into spindles and the whole works?
Model A ends in 1931 Model B starts in 1932 So there we are. Theres no 1932 model A. You cannot swap a wide 5 drum onto a model A spindle and still use the model A backing plate. You can use a wide 5 drum on a model A spindle with a kit that shims the drum down the smaller A spindle and use the 32 mechanical brake backing plate. You can use a wide 5 drum on a 1932 spindles with the 32 backing plate but will still need the spindle kit. Or you can use the wide 5 drum with a 39 and later juice brake backing plate on either style spindle, again same spindle kit.
Neat. I just looked it up and its true yet it still lists the model years as 28-31. How does that work? I know vehicles get produced and sold earlier than the Jan 1 of the production year but making a 31 in 32? Crazy. Maybe Henry was just using up parts
Well, model year and year of manufacture can be two different things. Many new model cars are built in the fall of the previous year. I've seen some old cars ***led as the previous year because even though they are a '39 model, for example, they were sold and ***led in late 1938. And back then they got confused and ***led them as a 38. So, even though yes, Model A's were made until March of 32, technically they still are a 28-31 Model A regardless of the date of production.
I will make no mention of the disturbing number of 1926-1927 Model T parts that are on my 1929 Model A closed cab pickup.
I am considering wide 5's on my 32. Might go to 40 Ford juice brakes. What spindle kit are you referencing?
Years ago, some of the auto accessory suppliers offered kits to put later Ford hydraulic brakes on earlier models. This usually consisted of a set of bearing spacers and rings to allow the later backing plates to be centered on the earlier spindles. I doubt anyone has them available currently. In the mists of my memory I seem to recall that Model A piston rings can be used as the backing plate spacer, while valve seat inserts from something else can be used to space out the bearings. It gets a little more complicated than that when you consider that '36 wide five front drums are different than '37-'39. I believe that the rears will interchange. Maybe someone will jump in whose memory is better than mine.
I just about went crazy trying to understand what was needed for juice brakes and to use wide five drums/hubs for my speedster build a couple weeks ago. I can dig up the info I gathered and post it later if you’d like to know what I learned.
I'm interested. I've got a good set of '39 wide 5 hubs and drums going to waste that I bought for the '29 RPU. Maybe I'll get motivated enough to use them.
Ok. Will have to wait until later today as I have to install my “tempo” today. As @tubman mentioned, the 36 drums/hubs are a one-year only and will not work with “regular” spindles/juice backing plates, so at least you don’t have to worry about that. The earlier spindles (28 -?) have a narrower bolt flange pattern, smaller dia raised “boss” that centres the backing plate, but you can use the “juice” backing plates with a spacer ring (like a piston ring used in the early days, but now avail from Speedway, and others). You can redrill or plug weld/redrill the juice backing plates, to fit the narrower bolt pattern, or you can upgrade to later spindles with the “wider” bolt pattern. I went with new later “round back” spindles from Speedway with the “wider” bolt pattern. The spindles were also factory “shaved” at the top of the spindke to fit the Lincoln style backing plates I also got from Speedway. I decided to use the self-energizing Lincoln style juice backing plates as the earlier Ford juice backing plates are not self-energizing, and according to some only marginally better than the mechanical brake setup.
Kits like this Speedway part; but many of the early Ford parts dealers also sell the similar kits. The Early V-8 Garage sells a deluxe kit. The ring will center the backing plate on the spindle and the bearing spacer will locate the hub. You also need to pry the original tin grease shield off the spindle. You will need to deal with the bolt pattern, notches being the most common. But you could also weld up the 1/2" holes in the backing plates and drill new 3/8" holes to match the backing plates.
The Jalopy Journal
