Do you guys think some heat shielding would be enough to protect my clutch cable going between my headers? If I route the cable in front of the headers it puts a lot of stress at each end. I am not aware if there are any longer clutch cables available. This one is from a mustang.
I know the experts will come along to help and I am not one, but....... that looks like a problem just waiting to happen from here. No way to curl it down by the steering box completely away from the exhaust? Engine compartment is looking good!
Thank you. Yes i forgot to mention, i can route it in front of the headers and under the motor mount, but its a longer distance and it puts a lot of stress on both ends.
Here is the other option I have. It may be hard to tell, but each end of the cable is slightly angled where it makes contact now because it is so much tighter.
I ***ume this is the 52 Victoria you are working on. If so it is shaping up to be a really nice piece! The cable is not happy stressed at each end, have you had another set of eyes just take a look and see if they see an alternative route? Some times when we work on something we become blind to the obvious....... I am guilty of that..... If not, after all this work to get it right, maybe you can have a much longer cable made for your Car? It might not be as bad as you think. Food for thought...... Good luck with a nice looking build.
That looks like a late model Mustang cable and yes, it's gonna be an issue! Couple of options: 1) Tie it off to the block and install some DEI ***anium wrap or spark plug wire heat wrap. 2) Get a longer cable and run it in front of the motor and back to the clutch. 3) Hydraulic clutch w/slave cylinder. 4) Floor model master and pedals (yeah, the last two are extreme)! Awesome engine compartment! Gives me some good ideas for my '54 Customline!
Why don't you run it on the outside of the frame rail, inside the upper a arm mount. Anything near the header is asking for a fire after the cable housing melts.
Yes it is my Vicky. Thank you for the compliments. And for the tips. I haven't had any other eyes on it yet. That's a good idea. I'll also look into a longer cable.
Thank you for the ideas. 1) easiest and cheapest idea so far 2) any idea where I can get a custom length cable? I think this would be best. 3)this would have saved me a lot of trouble if I did this from the beginning 4) pretty trick but yes, too extreme for this project.
what about getting a new cable made to the length you need. maybe from a motorcycle shop or a brake and clutch joint.....shouldn't be too costly.....be a shame to see such a nice car suffer over something so minor
These guys can make whatever you could need, reasonable pricing also. Just call and talk to them. Their brake cables are nice and less money than lokar! http://www.controlcables.com/
Try Ron Morris Performance https://ronmorrisperformance.com/03clutch/index.html I know he used to offer custom-length clutch cables for swaps...
If you heat wrapped BOTH the header and Cable you may just get away with that, but I would look for an alternative.
My experience has been that the heat from headers close to the cylinder head is higher than the heat coming from cast manifolds close to the heads. This probably explains why HRP is having no issues with his install. (Beautiful engine bay HRP ) The heat wrap option "might" work but I really think in the long run a custom cable will be the best option for you. do it once and then cruise your Victoria with no worries!
Thanks for all the suggestions. I talked to Control Cables. I should have a custom length cable from them in two days.
I ran the same set up in a '31 2 dr. Sedan and used the stock bracket to hold it- never a problem. The stock pedal ***embly worked out great. 1985 302 HO with a 4 spd. Did look kind of ****y. But it went like stink!! Check out the louvered wire cover next to the header- air cooled, Baby!
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