today is day thirteen of my modified build. I am not convinced todays fabbing will net optimum results, geometricaly speaking that is. I built a mount to accept the pivot ball that I removed from the front wishbones and will weld to the rear wishbones. I cut the socket from a stock '34 K member and fabbed up the rest. the potential problem is in that I will have to drastically shorten and pull the bones together to make the connection, and the ball ends up being about four inches in front of the front U joint. here are some in progress pictures.. I think they speak for themselves..
First off, nice fab work. Second, yeah it will work but your correct in thinking it is pretty short. Ride quality and spring bind come to mind on a set up like this. I think SamIAm posted just recently a similar set up under his Roach Rod using an "A" wish bone ball end. If memory serves its nearly as short and seems to work well enough.
I see no problem with that. In fact, it's a far cry better than a lot of designs I've seen. You will need a panhard bar unless you're using a transverse spring arrangement with short shackles. Even then the panhard would be something to think about.
There is a sliding yoke in the Tranny, right? Looks real good. ( not just this, the whole car does...)
[ QUOTE ] All you need to finish it off is a good set of Hoot eyes! [/ QUOTE ] what is it with the freakin' hoot eyes??? I don't even know what the hell they are, and I'm not liking them one bit! but seriously, I could move the pivot forward, it's not too late, the bones are not cut and nothing is welded solid. Paul
<font color="green"> I have no idea either, I just couldn't resist after seeing you check that guy into the wall on the other post. Maybe he is talking about HEIM joints? </font>
I think that guy may be refering to the original for rotary shocks called "houdaille" shocks because of the original manufacturer. phhhhhhhhhhht Hoot Eyes,,,,
Looking great (as always). Just did a few 'rough' sketches on my CAD setup, very much guesstimates, but educated ones since I've been doing similar on my 28A. I'f you were to have suspension 'up' travel of say 3" your 'ladder bar' style setup(the basic geometry is the same irregardless as to the construction methods...), you rear diff swings approx. 5 degrees, and the diff (and tailshaft) will move forward about 3/8" from it's static position. Bottom line, will work a treat as long as you use a panhard bar(mounted to the chassis at the same side as the steering box), longer the better, to stop the rearend kicking sideways (and no, I wouldn't use a 'dead perch' type setup due to the short radius created when using this arrangement). I appoligise if I'm rambling on or 'preching to the choir'. Bottom line, looks great, and will work a treat (just carry a spare couple of the rubber covers for the ball because if you plant the foot regularly the ball will get mashed and allow the 'ball' to flop about (no puns intended.... ). Cheers, Drewfus
done it on lots of cars ..you dont need a panhard bar, the ride in a hotrod sucks anyway so there is no need to over annalize it........ it will be fine.....i like the crossmember you did...
[ QUOTE ] done it on lots of cars ..you dont need a panhard bar, the ride in a hotrod sucks anyway so there is no need to over annalize it........ it will be fine.....i like the crossmember you did... [/ QUOTE ] I'm with thirtytwo, NO panhard needed on unsplit bones with transverse mounted rear spring, If it had coils yeah, But the leaf holds it on-center out back and its fighting a triangle to stay on center out front... Just DONT look at my setup hahaha Rob
That looks really good Paul. Your fabrication skills amaze me. Here is my set-up in a 32 chassis w/ a flathead and T-5. The crossmember that the rear wishbone mounts to was in the frame from a previous life. (It is kind of rough, but I wanted to leave some identifiable part of the frame's existance as a 1950/60's race car) I used a piece of a 37 Ford truck crossmember for the ball socket and welded it in the bottom of that crossmember. I added crush tubes so the cap bolts go all the way through the crossmember. Here is what I have so far. Neal
My wife's 27 T has that sort of rear wishbone setup and it drives and handles really well. I'll take some measurements tonight and post them tomorrow.
No need for any panhard bar whatsoever... because it is TRIANGULATED... The Roach Rod's is a tad longer and works TITTS. I used a Model A yoke, which will separate them on the ball side about 6" or so apart, FWIW. Also, the added benefit of moving them in so they merge closer to the rear axle is that they will clear your rear kick up when the spring settles. That was one problem I saw in the earlier pics, and one that some guys overlook. So, I'd go with it. There is enough slack in the spring and shackles to take up any forward motion that the rear end will experience when it cycles. Have you checked your pinion angle yet? Or does it still have the stock brackets welded to it? Also, don't set it up with any negative (pinion down) angle in it like you would a leaf spring HP car... Your wishbone is angling downward... so if anything it should be at zero or a tad upward (just a scoatch). Keep up the good work, Sam.
thanks Sam, I must've missed the pix of your setup? have you posted them recently? I'd like to see some. yes the pinion is angled down a couple degrees right now but I was going to correct that when I bring the bones together. Paul
[ QUOTE ] I used a Model A yoke, which will separate them on the ball side about 6" or so apart, FWIW. [/ QUOTE ] Capitol idea SAM. Paul- Kick ass work. Not just this wishbone, but the whole project. Giving some thought to the wishbone, I made a quickie "working model" (you owe me a coat hanger )... The only thing that jumps out is, if it's a street driven car, as opposed to a drag or salt car, you'll have repeated contact with perpendicular bumps in the road and constant braking. Also, the axle, under load, will not be pushing straight against the bones. When an axle tries to twist (spin), this is 100% straight in line with the frame rails. Parallel bones are all tensil (straight-like a fiddle string) where, if you imagine, pulling them all the way parallel with the axle (hypothetically... just work with me, here.) they would be all lateral (cross-ways). The axle would pivot in either configuration, but, in the second one, hitting the slightest bump, braking, or getting on (or off) of the throttle, will try to pull/push the axle backwards/forwards, bending at the bones... or trying to. Your's, if it were too obtuse of an angle,at the ball, might want to fatigue the metal or the welds at the ends. I don't think you have to worry, with the way you have it, but SAM's idea would spread the bones out, and help to eliminate that lateral effect, and push/pull straight against the welds, as opposed to across them in a shearing motion. I guess, it depends on how hard you jump on the gas. I like it, though. Again, very nice work. JOE
wow Junkyard Dog 32, you're really smart! did you just make that up? I realize it was a tough question to answer without any dimensions and just a few pictures, but thanks for all the positive responses- especially from those that I know have more experience than I do with this sort of thing, sometimes I feel like I'm hacking blindly out in the garage, and I need the advice of the experts, or at least a more experienced hack! Paul
No, I didn't make it up. Some hotrodder did, in the forties, when he split the first one. I'm just learning from his example... only thinking in reverse. ...and I do my best thinking after bar-time. I can't wait to see this one done. JOE
Good stuff! I especially like your thought process in creating a complex form from a simple shape (rect tubing). Think you might need a small drain hole in the bottom if you don't box in the top. PS: I'm stealing some of your ideas for my '27. The check's in the mail.
Here ya go ... The wishbone is about 48 inches long from center of axle tube to centre of front ball. It uses the wide front ball like Sam mentioned. This photo shows where the front ball is mounted relative to the trans. It would probably be close to 4 inches in front of the driveshaft universal.
How well would this type of setup work in a fairly high HP/torque situation? Would you constantly be breaking wishbones? Assuming you were to use '36 'bones...
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