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Customs Windshield installion in early 50's MOPAR?

Discussion in 'The Hokey Ass Message Board' started by flynbrian48, Apr 2, 2021.

  1. flynbrian48
    Joined: Mar 10, 2008
    Posts: 8,757

    flynbrian48
    Member

    6E33B7A3-6C8E-41BB-B5A2-F9918ECF376B.jpeg Some of you may have read about my recent fiasco trying to get the windshield installed in my '52 DeSoto wagon. If not, the short version is, thinking I'd hire the job done and save myself a day of struggle, I paid a couple of monkeys a stupid amount of money, who F'd the job up so badly that they ruined the new Steele gasket, concealed the fact they cut the (integral) locking strip under the stainless trim, and never set the lock strip in the bottom of the gl*** channel.
    It's largely my fault, because I should have stopped them when they didn't recognize that type of gasket, and ignored the instructions sent by Steele, but they seemed willing to try. They intentionally concealed the damage, the job looked finished, but the next day the trim popped loose setting in the garage and damage was obvious.
    So, my question is, what is the correct way to install this? I have a new gasket coming from Steele rubber, without the lock strip, which means I'll have to use the rope method, which I've done on several cars. The difference with this Chrysler is the stainless trim. Unlike a GM car of the same period, the stainless has only a tiny "lip" at the edge to catch the flap on the rubber gasket.
    With a GM gasket, the stainless trim has large sort of flange that goes in the slot in the gasket, the gl*** is set, and whole ***embly is placed in the w/s opening, the rope is used to pull the gasket over the pinch weld. Do I set the trim in the gasket first like this, or should it be installed after the gasket and gl*** are in? It seems to be impossible, as evidenced by "installers" cutting the gasket trying to force the rubber flap under the stainless lip to hold it.
    Somebody has to know the right way to do this, I'm hoping someone here has done one. Chrysler, Dodge, DeSoto, Plymouth, all use the same gasket and trim, '50-53 with flat gl***, 2 piece windshields. Anybody?
    Edit: I guess the silver lining in this dark cloud is that I have an opportunity to paint the pinch weld area that the Steele gasket doesn't completely cover... View attachment 5024397 View attachment 5024397 View attachment 5024421 View attachment 5024423 View attachment 5024424
     

    Attached Files:

    Last edited: Apr 2, 2021
  2. rockable
    Joined: Dec 21, 2009
    Posts: 5,220

    rockable
    ALLIANCE MEMBER

    Brian, if you don't get an answer here, try thr P15 D24 forum. I will bet there is someone over there that knows. You might even try the DeSoto forum on the AACA site. Good luck!
     
    flynbrian48 likes this.
  3. flynbrian48
    Joined: Mar 10, 2008
    Posts: 8,757

    flynbrian48
    Member

    I'm unable to open the photos I added from my iPhone. I'll try to fix it. I can't fix the windshield, maybe I can fix the pictures of it...
     
  4. flynbrian48
    Joined: Mar 10, 2008
    Posts: 8,757

    flynbrian48
    Member

    IMG_3336.JPG


    Sent from my iPhone using H.A.M.B.
     
  5. flynbrian48
    Joined: Mar 10, 2008
    Posts: 8,757

    flynbrian48
    Member

    IMG_3337.JPG
    Awkward, I can only load one per post. Anyway, the previous photo shows the lil on the stainless, this one is the flap on the gasket that catches it. It can (the stainless) be slid over the lip from then, which works for straight bottom pieces, but not on the “J” shaped side/top pieces.


    Sent from my iPhone using H.A.M.B.
     

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