So I just put my windshield in......3 years ago! Anyway, I started at the bottom (Gravity) and worked my way up. The seal don't fit too well at the top. If I push it up to where it's supposed to sit on the body, the top edge of the windshield gl*** kinda shows (not right). If I push it down till it bottoms out on the gl***, it looks like **** / doesn't fit the body lines. Did I screw up? Are you supposed to put something in the channel between the body and the seal at the bottom and also in the rubber channel between the seal and the gl*** to get the gaps all even? It's like all the "adjustment" ended up at the top because I didn't put anything at the bottom - What do you guys do/use? This is a 1965 C-10, but I think alot of old cars/trucks have similar installations. Thanks in advance!
I have never had a 64-66 c-series fit that bad. Saw some real bad 60-63 fitting problems. These trucks were not perfect when new. I don't have my 60-66 ***embly manual anymore, or shop manuals...one of those showed putting dum-dum caulk in certain areas.
First, you gotta be thankful the hole is too big. It's really bad when the truck has been wrecked and the body guy did\n't have a gl*** to test fit and the hole is too small and out of square. And you have to shave the gl*** to fit. And now you know how much you need to make up at the top, a little plastic strip or paint stick chunks can be used to lay in the botton gl*** groove to move the gl*** up a little. two or three one inch long pieces would be fine. You can also wrap one layer of electric tape around the flange to tighten up the gasket against the body. Not fitting the body lines, you can sometimes tweak the flange a little with vise grips to move the flange in or out, which also changes the hole size, too. I used to do a lot of gl*** on old stuff with the rubber gaskets.
If you decide to start over take these steps into consideration. 1. Is this a custom cab with stainless insert in the rubber 2. When you took it out the first time did how did you remove it? 3. Sometime damage is done to the stainless causing the rubber to pull or twist in differant directions. 4.When putting the stainless trim into the gasket make sure its locked in. 5. Make sure you use a rope method for pulling rubber onto the pinchweld from inside the cab. Work some from the left and then go to other side work some more. 6. Lube works well as always with all. 7.Bottom first, work sides and top. You might need to use a cotter pin puller (has a twristed end to it. This works well for rolling the rubber out at the cap area since its hard to get too. Keep the screw drivers away.