winter storage?

hey guys,

just looking for some winter storage tips, figured ask early then when its white every were about a month to early im not to takin aback in my lack of planing.

seeing as the snow gets deep ill most likely be parking the 53 for a couple months in the winter and im not exactly sure how to go about it. usaly ive got a agarage and its a preety straight forward thing but ive lost my garage space so now all ive got is space in a shed at a buddies farm. its just a tin building with some sliding doors with a cement floor. you know the type.

i figured beond the basic car prep for parking it i would put it up on jack stands, put a rag or something over the exhaust and intake--those sliding doors are far from air tight if you know what i mean. and put some sort of cover on it.

i even thought about putting a tarp under the car/jackstands and w****** it up so theres even less of a chance of something crawling up in there.

were my main questions lie is what to cover it with.

a canvas type tarp? this seems like it would be tough but would hold moisture in it and under it as well as possibly scratching stuff up

a blue pastic tarp? tough enough, doesnt hold water itself but could hold alot of humidity under it because it doesnt realy breath.

just plug all the exhaust/intake spots, put it on stands, roll the windows up tight and hang a blue tarp from the ceiling --12 foot ceiling-- over the car so its not realy covering the car but itll keep **** frm draining down on it ect

any thoughts?

hopefully i can just find some one with a spare garage stall to rent or something simialr and it wont be such an ordeal but untill then i figured id ask

thanx
tim

 

anybody?

 

just make sure its clean on the outside and dry on the inside so it don't rust or rot and it should be ok I'd think

 

WOW
I thought I was just gettun ready to take stuff out of winters grasp..

... replaced the snowblower with pressure washer and the engine stand today

as far as storage .. high and dry will be a good thing... some buildings sweat and don't dry out as fast during temp. changes ... cover a wet dog and it stays wet.....

building ventilation and a window with daylight(even little is a source of heat) is better than a damp floored dark building.............. spread some floor dry / amd moth balls around floor and crack a vent ... varmits can get in where you won't expect.. they may not find their way out... store no consumeables in the car .. no boxes of parts wrapped in paper or rags .. it becomes nest material... use sticky traps near doors and places where they will jump up to get in..
use jack stands and the world divides on how much fuel to leave in it..

I have had some friends able to use heated underground garage spaces at old folks home's /elder family livin centers..as a good percentage of tenants don't own/drive a car ... most are security type and cheap enough... dry and secure and you can come and go pretty easy ..drive when the weather allows

Leave your late model sit out!!

STORE THE OTHER GARAGED CLUTTER AT THE FRIENDS HOUSE..


GOOD LUCK NEXT FALL
PAPERDOG

 

Changing the oil before storage is a good idea. Natsy stuff resides in used oil that can harm bearings when left idle for months on end. Check your antifreeze strength if you use it, drain all water if not (including heater hoses and core). Fill, and I mean fill, the gas tank all the way up to the top of the neck, don't give the rust a chance inside your tank. Run your carb dry so there'll be no varnishing in the float bowl or needle valve. Spray any aluminum with a spray oil to keep it from oxidizing if things get damp. I know you get alot of varying temps through the winter out there, my wife's from Nebraska

Flatman

 

yeah it went from 70 to -30 to 65 in four days a month or two ago lol.

as far as fluids and ect go. its probably going ot be stored for about 3-4 months and will be started and run for a good 15 or so minutes every month if not more often.

cant got that long with out hearing a flathead cackle

tim

 

get some gas stabilizer (that red stuff) and add to a full tank of gas and run it a bit right before you park it for storage. either put fresh oil in or just drain the oil, pull the plugs and spray a good shot of oil (I use marvel mystery oil) into each cylinder. the used/old oil does hold contaminants that can help damage your motor... then just add oil in the spring and start it and let it idle up to operating temp for at least 10 minutes....

I don't think the idea of starting a motor to get it to operating temp and then shutting it down is a good idea in the winter... it doesn't allow the oil to get hot enough to get rid of the condensation that is created by warming it up.... I always drain my motors for storage, with a shot of marvl in each hole... never had a problem...

also, it's a good idea to get the tires off of the concrete, I put my cars on stands for cold storage.....

Damn, winter is over here.... I had **** Gluacoma yesterday (I called in to tell them that I couldn't see my *** going into work) just to bring the poncho out of storage and pull the ******....

 

I've been storing my 47 Chevy away the past 3 winters with some other guys in a huge unheated brick building. We use that fuel stabilizer and also spray something called 'Engine Storage Spray" into the carb just as you shut it down to basically stall it. This is supposed to prevent varnish. Both those things are sold for motorhomes. I also take the battery out so I can use it for testing wiring during the winter. I can then make sure it's charged when I take it back. I usually take a small jar of gas to prime the carb in spring.

 

ya know this all seems like alot of work, maybe ill just put the front bumper about 3 inchs from the ground and plow some snow this year