Yep, that's the way (and I'm a retired electrician). The only 100% positive way to eliminate sharp ends, as any of the specialty tools can still leave sharp ends. The only downside to this method is if you're using cheap 'discount tool store' ties, they may break instead of twisting off. After you've carved your hand open on cut ties a few times, you'll understand why we insist on twisting them off. The best ties are the ones with metal catches.
X2... Because they are thin, they work well in tight places. Got mine at Radio Shack about 25 years ago, don't know where you would find them today.
I'm not a big fan of Panduit either. Panduit works fairly well in a control panel or box as it eliminates the need for ties and makes troubleshooting/changes much easier, but it will cut you up if you're not careful. I've used all of the 'good' specialty cutters at one time or another, and virtually all of them leave a sharp edge in some degree. The main issue with them is you have to align the cutter just right, failure to get it 'perfect' will leave an nasty edge. The best ones use a 'shear' type cutter (one cutting edge against a anvil, like a metal shear), anything with two cutting edges like pliers WILL leave a sharp edge.
...if you wire your car right the first time, you should never have to go back under there. ...jus kiddin'
Just go and get some wire cutters. Use grinder to grind the face flat, making them into flush cuts. I do this, it's cheap, easy, and heavy duty. Before cutting the tail off, grip it with the cutters and rotate sideways to pull the tie tighter, then cut. I've used those small flush cuts and one time it broke and the piece flew off and hit me in the forehead, I cringe whenever I see someone use one without safety glasses on.
It takes a moment to learn how to properly twist them off, but it's the only guaranteed way of not creating a hidden razor edge. If you safety wire anything then use safety wire pliers with the knob on the end aids in spinning the pliers. Two tools in one.
We have probably 16 pairs of the E709BCG cutters from Snap On. A set of cutters lasts the tech perhaps 3 months before they are dull. We recently (last month) tried some of the other brands because I agree that the Snap On cutters are expensive. In side-to-side testing, the cheaper brands suck...big time. Cutting force is almost 2X the Snap On....also tried a different Snap On model made in Spain....same suck. Nice thing about Snap On is that they replace dull cutters....so we have the 16 pairs in rotation among 6 or 7 techs....they always have sharp tools. Klein tools are pretty decent cutters but they don't replace for free. I have worn out a pair my cutters wiring cars....we only cut wire and ties with the cutters, never cable and never hard wire.
This style of flush cutter is available from Walmart in the crafts department for about $3. I only use them for cutting ties and they work great and last a long time. My old skin is thin and I bleed easily. These cutters do not leave the sharp edge that hurts me. John
I use a big pair of nail clippers. I got some from a medical supply display at a swap meet that had concave blades instead of the usual convex shape, but they all work to get rid of the sharp tabs.
I was an electrician in a power plant for 45 years and never heard or saw twisted off ty-raps. Most of the time if possible we pushed them around so the end was in the back. We had special panduit tools at the nuclear plants which were calibrated (no shit) so the bundles were neither too loose or to tight. Same with crimpers. I use nippers, now that I'm retired, in a car, and dykes for everything else.
That's one of the few times I was forced to use the specialty tywrap tools; everything at a nuke plant has to be calibrated, and it's the NRCs way or no way. They even had nuclear-rated tywraps... (special plastic that could withstand being irradiated). I can't remember who showed me the 'twist' trick (sometime in the 80s) but that's been my preferred method ever since. Like I said, it doesn't always work with the cheapy wraps and the really big, wide ones you usually have to cut.
Another tip....always use black ties....white ties are UV sensitive and become brittle. Also, the standard tie material (nylon?) is susceptible to battery acid fumes...we installed some robots in a battery plant and they showed us the communication cables up near the ceiling that had been installed with regular ties....they broke and the cables fell. I think the spec said PVC ties.. harder to find.
Crazy Steve, how about a guy standing watching everything you did. Following the forms(ours were pink) on troubleshooting a circuit for a problem always cracked me up. Something I could fix in 10 minutes sometimes took 2 days. I would tell them what was wrong and how to fix it, and they would get an "engineer/writer" to write out the steps, get it approved, then a guy would watch me follow the exact steps I told them, and make the repair....geez I went back to Steam Gen where I could work in peace.
Yeah, working a nuke was a whole different experience. I got lucky, I ended up pushing a 'maintenance' crew which had nothing to do with maintenance but consisted of furnishing temp power to the construction crews. Nobody watched us and good thing too, as we had to hash some stuff together on occasion to keep power up. Got lots of overtime, as we came in on a weekend about once a month to 'fix' all the hash jobs done during the week...
Really guy's, two pages of posts on the hazards of getting fingers cut on zip ties? If I ever get cut on one, I'll use one of my Grandkids Sponge Bob bandaids.
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