I need some advice. Before I go all the way with my new old set of wheels, can anyone tell me what "acceptable" runout is? I had to ditch my outa whack Model A wheels years ago, and replaced them with Coker HR steels and caps. Problem with them, I'm running mechanical brakes, and had to use obnoxious spacers to mate to my A drums. So now I'm back to my roots with 16" '35s, which bolt right up. Full disclosure... my ride is a NOT a highway machine. It IS a back road flat bed farm Jalopy, so real close is good enough. Advice please?
I just did some 16 & 18 inch early Ford wires for a project and before I spent the money to have them powder coated I took them to the local tire shop and had them run them on their balancer up to speed to check the run out and they were virtually perfect. After they were coated I had the Excelsior tires mounted and balanced and they ran true and needed very little weight to balance to zero. What I'm saying is a little run out at highway speeds can get magnified but for what you are doing it might be acceptable?
Thanks @krylon32. A slow spin with the dial gauge shows all 4 to be .015 to .025 out. For comparison, the Coker's I've run for a couple years read .020 out. I'm looking for a "go/no go" rule of thumb...or am I splitting fine hairs here?
Are you talking radially or transversely ? "My" rule of thumb... Radially (out of round from the spindle "center"), no more than .015". The thinner the sidewall the less this number should be. Transversely (in line with the spindle), no more than .020". Again with the sidewall height. Years back I sent a set of custom wheels back because two wheels, one rim was out .025", and .027" on the other. They weren't interested in fixing them. Mike
put your two best ones on the front, the rears can be out a lot and not be felt. anything less than an 1/8" is a pretty good old ford wheel. also, when checking, put all five lug nuts on, it make a difference
@mikew, I'm measuring transversely. Sounds like I'm borderline? @rustyvalley, all nuts on and tight. I'll follow your advice. I appreciate your advice. I knew I came to the right place! Art
i dont use a gauge, i just mount it on the car, put something heavy like a bottle jack next to the rim...wheel...i'm confused...its so hard to be acceptably correct... and turn it slow to see your high, and low points. not rocket science. these wheels have been thru hell and one that is really true i've yet to see. 1/16 is a really good one, an 1/8 is ok, 3/16 go on the back and any worse go on the junk pile, or on ebay or to a swap meet depending on your moral standards. when buying, i try to buy from junk yards or farm auctions because there, you have a good chance of atleast being the first guy to check it. at the other sources i mention, you are most likely buying the ones that guy wouldnt use. the 16" wheels are pretty strong. the earlier wheels it takes about 3-4 to get one good one. 28-29 wheels, 4-5 for a good one, T wires, atleast 5 for one good wheel
RUSTY VALLEY, now that's some straight poop. You obviously know your wire wheels! My avatar came with stock 1930 Model A 19"wheels...1 out of 4 was almost useable. So I'm reading 1/32" out at most (if my math's right). If I double that for human error (mine), I've still got 4 "really good ones"....best news I've had all day! Thank you for reaching out Friend. Art
I have several sets of 16, 17 and 18" Ford wires and sold a lot of them. It is really rare to see wheels that are 100%. What Rusty Valley says is right, everything less than 1/8" is pretty good and less than 1/16" is as good as they come/came.
Thank you @dutch deuce. From the advice you fellas have offered, I'm confident my wheels are well within tolerances. Coincidentally, my radial runout measurements were in the same range as the transverse readings...as a matter of fact, I dropped them at the powder-coaters today! I appreciate ALL of you reaching out... now, if I could just find cycle fenders to fit those front 600-16s, I'd be in good shape! Art
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