Hot Rods Wiring Help re removable body

Hello fellow rodders
In building our first street rod, a 27 Model T Touring, all steel on 34 Ford rails (now boxed) we would like to be able to remove the body relatively easily. To us that means we need to figure out some form of gang plug connector and probably one that is watertight.
SO, OUR QUESTION is how have you experienced and successful rodders addressed similar problems?

Also, how do you protect the wiring running along the frame?

We are heading towards the direction of putting most of the electricals, including the fuse panel in the sealed off under the front seat area.

Thanks in advance for any advice you are willing to share - collegially Michael

 

I have used these people on 3 different electrical systems build. I’m sure there are others but these people do it for me
https://www.elecdirect.com/?gad_sou...dUZbdClEvzmhGdjYGkZQCcS5IgUyNxi0aAhwbEALw_wcB

 

Some of the aftermarket wiring parts vendors sell bulkhead connectors. Check Ron Francis.
Or a couple of heavy duty trailer wire plugs if you figure to take it off real often.

 

Deutche connectors ( or similar) are what you're looking for.

Chris

 

Some of the universal wiring looms come with a bulkhead connector so you can separate engine loom from body.

 

Thinking of the basics of what you need as far as wires.
Power lead from battery to fuse/distribution block
Lead from alternator/generator to _____
GROUND wire from battery or chassis to body
Ignition wire to coil
Start wire to solenoid
Temp gauge wire (if applicable)
Oil pressure gauge wire (if Applicable

High beam wire for headlights
low beam wire for headlights
Tail light wire if lights are on frame and not on body
Left brake/turn light wire (if lights are on frame)
Right brake/turn light wire if lights are on frame.
Park light wire for front if you have them and can't tie into tail lights on frame
Left turn light wire
right turn light wire

 

I would look at cannon plug style connectors.

 

I would go for the cannon plug connectors also. Go to an aircraft salvage yard and get what you need.

 

I would do the following.
1. Run high current, thick wires in one or more plugs.
2. Run senders and trigger wires that are light in a separate plug.
3. I would make sure there is a loop or slack at both sides of the connector.
4. Where it goes through the floor would NOT be the lowest point. Just in case there is standing water at any time, you don't want it wicking up the wires.
5. It will help yourself and the next person to have a legend of the connectors right next to them.

High is power into cabin for B+, Starter solenoid out. ALT output can connect at B+ on starter, unless you are running an AMP gauge. Better to run VOLTS. Any ACC needs outside cabin? Coil power.

Low is each gauge sender, relay (mounted in separate box on frame) triggers for headlights (Lo & Hi), turn signals in front.
Wiper, Rear turn and stop can stay in body. Coin toss on fuel gauge. Horn depends on location.
Ground for body can be handled by one or more of the body bolts from frame to body.

 

On our lakester we used a 30 pin bulkhead connector from McMaster Carr. to connect between computer and engine. Worked great and allowed us to remove computer during transit.