I have replaced upgraded and fused using stock wiring harness . I just beefed up the power wire and installed a blade fuse box. But to same trouble even though may seem silly I used the old one as well just ran it of a 25 amp fuse this was to prevent mismatched wires. I also set up three switches and a push button start . It cranks over but run another story . My questions are this 1 I have a red wire with a stock ring terminal that is not in my wiring schematics. It was hooked to a black wire by means of a circuit breaker. But I removed the jumble of excess and in stock wire to wire safe and proper . Just haven't found the purpose of this wire. Also I have mine wire from fuse box power to switch from the middle prong of switch I run from alternator a wire to a light to switch and from switch to power of other switch which powers my pink wire *(resist wire ) and last switch that powers my red blue wire Start wire on the button . I want to put all my ass wires on that switch as well cause the button is only while pressed is that correct? Sorry so winded just hope it's all the info and someone can help me Thanks Sent from my SM-G925W8 using Tapatalk I bent the ring terminal but that is the mystery wire and that is the switches
I know I'm no artist fb is fuse box power from battery to fuse box from fuse box a power wire to switch the switch when turned on powers next switch and the charge light for alternator the next switch when powered on is pink wire and power to last switch which when turned on powers just the start button but I want too wire my assesories on either switch 1 or 3 Sent from my SM-G925W8 using Tapatalk
Ok, let's see if I have this straight.... Switch 1 is 'master' or 'main' power; this turns everything on/off. Switch 2 is ignition power. Switch 3 is everything else you want to switch. First thing I'd check is the switch ratings; this will be shown on the back of the switch (or should be). Remember that ANY switch HAS to be de-rated to 80% for reliability. So a 10 amp switch is only good for 8 amps, 15 amp for 12, 20 for 16. The ignition will draw 7-9 amps (right at the ragged edge for a 10 amp switch). Add in typical switched accessory loads (radio, heater, wipers, turn signals) and you'll exceed the rating of even a 20 amp switch. As shown, any one of the switches could fail. Solution? Use two relays, controlled by the switches but with the relays switching the actual loads. I'd recommend 30 amp relays (each fed by a minimum #12 20 amp circuit), one controlled by switch 2 and one by switch 3. As to the red wire, I'd just trace it and see where it goes.
Thank you i was go in to run a relay just wasn't sure where I should put it. I also figured that since my whole orginially ran off a 30 amp generator that 3 20 amp switches being the China pruduced mess I rated them 15 so far I have no assesories off those switches o also have fused my light switch on it's on so that is fused as well which runs all lights . ? What is # 12 20 amp circuit? The red I was hoping not to have to rip the wiring harness over the heater and yo where ever it carries on to Thank you for your help and taking the time Sent from my SM-G925W8 using Tapatalk
Also not sure how to use the relay with the pink resistance wire Sent from my SM-G925W8 using Tapatalk
The Jalopy Journal
