Wishbone steering question

I am looking at building a little lakes modified style 27' and I would like to run the new wishbones that Speedway is selling. After looking at my 32' I can't picture how the steering will clear the wishbone. On my car the steering passes through the 4-bar. How would this work with a wishbone setup? Does it go over the bone? Any help would be greatly appreciated. thanks.
~Jeff

 

On most of those, the tie rod is in front of the axle. I'm ass-u-ming you're talking about the tie rod going thru the 4 bar...? Pics of your current setup would help.

 

Yes. It is the tie rod going through the 4 bar. Its a traditional cross steer setup. Sorry for not explaining clearly. Its early. Thanks.

 

Why not use a rail mounted box and drag link on the new one? Solves the clearance issue completely.

 

With a raised pitman arm to pass over the bones, just keep the steering link down parallel with the bones.

 

cross steer isnt very "traditional." (on hotrods) yeah yeah, feel free to yell at me... but MOST cars used push pull.....

 

Jeff,if you havn't purchased the wishbone yet,check out the Fatman wishbones now offered by Gambino Customs/San Jose Speed and Chrome.
They look like nice pieces and Gambino's are Alliance Vendors.
Mark.

 

Sorry johnny. I should have said "generic" cross steer instead of traditional.

I haven't bought anything yet so I will look at the fatman setup.

The steering I have on my deuce is the cross steer. I am looking at using a reversed covair box with traditional steer on the 27'. I beam axle with quarter eliptical springs. Not traditional I know but thats how Zipper Motors does them. Thanks everyone.
~Jeff

 

On early Fords using the original wishbone, the tie rod crosses the car either above or below the wishbone, depending on the year (e.g. '32-'34 goes above the wishbone, and I think later ones below). If using a dropped axle then you would probably need to use dropped steering arms (or bend the originals if using Ford spindles) to get the tie rod where it should be. On an unsplit wishbone the relationship between that and the axle does not change, so as long as the tie rod clears it through full left and right lock you don't have to worry about geometry changes out on the road, but there will be some (possibly very small) movement with split-type 'bones to consider.

EDIT: One advantage with side-steer is that you only have to worry about the tie rod crossing the car, and not the drag link from the pitman arm to the RH steering arm, which moves a lot with suspension travel.

 

One way to do it is to retaper the spindle arm from the top so that the tie rod can be mounted on top. That will permit it to pass over the wishbone and under the frame. It really doesn't matter what steering box you use.





It was also common to heat and bend the arms to get the clearance. You have to bend it quite a bit so I prefer the first option for aesthetics but either will work. This was probably done in the early 50s. You can see that the drag link from your cross steer box can still be connected as Henry did it in 35 and later.

 

Tie rod in front of the axle is no good, I know alot of guys do it but it throws Akerman angle out of whack. When turning you will notice it. Keep the tie rod behind the axle where Henry put it.

 

Those picturtes are extremly helpful Tommy. Thank you.

Thanks for the heads up on the front mount. I have seen that on t's in the past and have always wondered if it worked ok.

Thank you everyone. You have all been very helpful.

~Jeff

 

Here's mine 4" dropped axle 38 bones with spring behind. I just bought the dropped steering arms for speedway and ran the tie rod under.

 

When running the tie rod or drag link over the bones, watch for frame interference with suspension travel. If you are setting up to be very low, the tie rod will hit frame. Jump up and down on the front frame horns to make sure it clears, or run tie rod drag link under.

 

It's either a wishbone or split bones (radius rods)!
Can't be both.

 

Some neat stuff on this one.

 

I had a hell of a time getting mine to work. ultimately I had to use the magnum 5" drop steering arms and "convince" them to go down a little more (bout 1/2"). But I am running a 5" drop axle in a spring over configuration.

 

Good looking set up. Are those the ~3 3/4" drop arms from Speedway or how much drop do they have? Any chance you could run a tie rod with them?

 

Yes they are the 3-3/4 drop arms. When you say tie rod do you mean ford style tapered ends? I guess you could ream them for the 7* taper from the bottom.