Technical wix buyers beware . . .

Not an oil filter, but a fuel filter..
Last fall I serviced and changed the oil in my Massey Ferguson tractor with the Perkins 3 cyl diesel. All the filters on it were unknown to me, might have been some kind of store brand, I don’t know. I got the numbers for what was used by Massey and crossed them over to Wix, my preferred brand filters for everything. All of them fit right on, no leaks, but I couldn’t bleed the fuel system like it had to be done. Followed the factory service manual steps several times, had the filters on and off several times, finally went to the internet to find an answer. The Wix came with two O rings, why, I don’t know. They had done a redesign of the head of the filter, if you put the O ring in the groove where it looked like it should go, it covered the holes in the filter, not allowing but a trickle of fuel to enter the filter. It took me three or four hours fussing with it before I stumbled upon this. Nothing on the box that said redesigned or improved flow. After taking that extra O ring out of the groove, the filter sealed up properly and I was able to bleed both filters and at the injectors.
Not a damaged or improperly made filter, just a change that wasn’t what it looked like it was and no installation instructions on it being different.

 

I would consider that maybe you got the one in million bad one. I damn sure won't use a Fram, the worst of the worst

 

We usually don't check the filters for these little details....we just assume its right. Here is some irony:

 

Its not a remote setup, just the stock location. It's probably a one off problem but . . . I'll find out when I open up both the old and new wix filters to compare. I've honestly run fram for 20 years on stuff with over 200k miles and no issues but to each his own. And just for the orange filter haters I bought a Purolater that says right on the filter "product of the USA"

 

Pass me the toilet paper will ya?

 

Just ordered a dozen Wix 51069 ones a couple days ago. I'll continue to use them as I've never had an issue, but will now keep a close eye on them. Like others have said, I think you just happened to get "that one".

 

imo mann is one of the best filters i worked at an off topic dealer and had many with north of 400000 miles with no rebuild using mann filters

 

The endless oil filter saga continues...I like the STP ones... and their sticker.

 

I also agree that this is a one off defect, sorry it happened. That Orange part is the anti-drain back as shown in the diagram, it's supposed to flex back under no pressure to keep the oil in the passages. Seems this one has been captured by the other parts to completely block flow. Try pushing it in to see if pressure opens it. Use that test on any new filter before install.
I won't get into the brand fight. Any brand can have a defect, and all companies try to keep costs low to compete and appease shareholders, which means changing where and how parts are made over time.

 

I will really open a can of worms here, NO OIL PRESSURE after a oil and filter change was a fairly common issue back in the late 60's and beyond. I worked at a Ford dealership and we got a sudden surge in Chrysler products coming into the dealership from our local Police department for service due to some deal made with our service manager and the city.... anyway. Within the first week lube guy changes the oil in a 440 Plymouth cop car and NO OIL pressure. After every attempt from every tech and advisor in the dealer ship to start the damn thing and check for pressure with a mechanical gauge, tried a different filter, ran it way too long without pressure in my opinion. Towed it to the local Plymouth dealer (who had lost the maintenance contract) and explained the situation. Service manager came out laughing and said he could fix it in 30 seconds, "happens all the time" according to him. He fires it up and tacks the throttle to the floor for a few seconds. Oil light goes out and the thing sets there and idles like nothing ever happened, no strange noises, no smoke, runs great. I was aware of that car still running fine two years later when we lost the maintenance contract to someone else. I was told by many, many techs over the next few years this was fairly common. Just FYI from an old guy that was there....... Mark
EDIT, went to Google and typed in "440 Chrysler no oil pressure after oil change" and a BUNCH of posts popped up from all kind of sites so it seems to still be an issue. Everyone seems to agree the "pump lost prime" but I am not sure the filter caused the problem to start with. If the engine ran fine with good oil pressure before I am not sure why people are replacing parts after an oil change, an oil change won't make the pump go bad!

 

Like rodstrace said. Check parts before install

 

I threw a Purolator on it and checked the diaphragm prior to installing it and is definitely a far softer durometer material. Pulled the distributor and primed it by hand just for safety sake and blamo' 50 psi. Fired it up and its at 70 psi cold, no bad noises so that was a relief. I'll open up both wix filters to see whats going on . . . .

 

Brand loyalty/controversy is as old as Methuselah!

I have honestly never had an issue with any brand of oil filter, but after reading this, I will be paying more attention to them before I install which ever brand it is !!!!

My go to brand (even though I have used them all over the years) is AC-Delco. Both my transport trucks are over 600,000 miles on original engine & trans using them, so I doubt I will ever change. For everyday vehicles....what ever is cheapest has yet to bite me in the ass.

God Bless
Bill
https://www.jalopyjournal.com/forum...ar-transport-hauling-open-or-enclosed.614419/

 

@nosford , sounds like it lost prime.
@MoePower glad to hear. Hope you find the cause. I'd suggest visiting the seller before hacking it up. Express the issue, explain that you are going to investigate and see if they want the remains to return.
The disconnect between the counter and the plant is huge, but it might get some eyes on it and keep this from happening again.

 

That red “seal” should be pressed down by the oil pressure of the engine allowing the filter to fill, do its filtering and return oil through the threaded fitting as shown. No gap showed in the first photos after it was taken off; I’m wondering what it looked like prior to installing. I would cut it apart. I just did an o c yesterday using a Wix and never really looked at the red seal… now I will

 

Did not want to mention yesterday but since this is Sunday and everyone has their best behavior on (ya sure).

We’re all guilty of either blowing or suckering small part’s be it a fuel filter, pcv valve, needle and seat, ect. Well, why not a clean oil filter? I always check the “anti drain back valve” by sucking from the inner threaded hole to feel for resistance then blow into it the feel that it seal’s.

Now that I’ve asked everyone to be angel’s, would OP be willing to try this with suspect oil filter in question?

 

WIX. 39 Ford

 

Not anymore.
I just read that Napa gold are No longer made by Wix anymore

I avoid Napa Like the plague. Way over priced for starters

Everything is just cheap shit junk anymore

 

Here's what I know. I had to put a new crank in a 351C.
Remember the round plastic deal in the middle of a pizza in the box? Something that looked like that came out of a Fram oil filter and plugged the oil passage ABOVE the oil pressure gauge port.
Fram sent out an adjuster, then wrote a check for the repairs...

 

I cut open a premium Fram after break in when I built my race motor. I felt like a chump, a mark, a dipshit taken full advange of. "You can pay me now or, I mean AND pay me later." Fuck Fram filters, I don't give a shit if they give you a million miles on the same filter. Real deal, we use old obsolete engines in 90+% of our shit. Yes, a 440 is in that category and we all know it. Why bring it up? Well sales volume is a good reason to check what ya bought. Pretty sure they sell way more 4.7 V8 Mopar filters than those for B/RBs. Bet ya check from now on, huh? I do.

 

That red part you are calling a gasket is the anti drain back valve to stop oil from draining back out of the filter when it's not running.
If anything you have a issue with the bypass spring in the bottom of the filter not collapsing and allowing oil through the filter.

 

Thanks for posting this, looks like I’ll need to be checking the tops of my new filters no matter what the brand.
I’ve used all the brands mentioned above, but we live in a global economy now, and the ethical standards around the world aren’t always what we would expect. The bottom line of the dollar and inflation is having an effect on all this I suspect as well.

 

According to the net , Tyco group purchased both fram & wix filters a few years ago & have been absorbed by CROWNE investments , SO ,
the same bean counters are overseeing all .

 

I've used lots of different brand oil filters over the years. In the last few years, I have been putting Wix 51515 filters on my 440. I guess these days you just have to inspect everything before you use it. The only issue I ever had with an oil filter was with a Fram. The threads were so poorly done that they would not allow the filter to screw on. It was the correct filter, but the thread size was too small. It was on one of their premium filters. I sent it to them, and they sent me six new ones, all of which were good.

 

Fram filters are known to have bypass valve issues Chevy used a In engine valve so you are alright.

 

While on the subject of filters and prime, do you guys fill the filter with fresh oil before you screw it on?

 

Yes

 

I'd say you just got a faulty filter.
I've used Wix or Napa Gold since the mid 80's without issues.

The Problem with Fram began in the 80's when they decided to put their money in advertising rather than product. Just about the time we saw Fram adds on TV all the time and saw full or multi page adds in most car magazines.

For the guy like my dad who changed oil and filter faithfully every three thousand miles on every car he owned from the late 60's on (1000 before that on his earler cars) He always had the oil changed and ran what filter the station or shop that changed it used though. For dad and guys like him who would even stop on a road trip to have the oil changed to not go past the 3K miles a slightly sub par filter probably wasn't an issue as he never got the oil that dirty.

 

Yup, sure do.

 

I'll keep using Oberg filters. The one slated for the Whatever project has been on 4 different engines and still looks good. Unbolt it, wash it out, bolt it back together.