I got these 1935/36 ford cowl patches from howells on eBay. the bead is 3/16 too wide, and the corners are all split. I need to use large parts of these so I chose to work out all of the issues. i often see build threads where the poster installs patch panels that "needed adjustment", leaving the reader wondering just how much work is in that? for some panels not much , others a lot, subjective I guess. Here's my experience. I did the work with a mig and basic tools.
starting with the bead I measured what was left of the stock bead and marked and cut a section from the middle. I started by tacking the rear an moving forward tacking 3" apart. I let them cool, did the other panel, then the other allowing cooling time. between each series of tacks I scotch brited the Sean and lightly aligned the unwelded sections with a hammer n' dolly. once I had the seam welded I used a thin grinding wheel to knock down the weld about 80-90%. I use these 3m wheels that are not stone, they're slightly flexible but still pretty rigid and grip well. The stone wheels are slippery and run off easily. The next step is 36 grit, then 80 grit on a D.A.,then red scotch brite by hand.
Note the stock bottom front is curved , and the patch panel is not only square it's cracked as shown in the first pics. some working with a piece of 5/8 round stock and a hammer and they're good to go. So there you go. I know what you're thinking...why aren't they on your car already? Well friends this is the son of a gun about it. the right side fits like a glove but the left... will need some more work. the dimensions of the lower front are good but the angles are all wrong. I mocked up the right side and assumed the left was the same. my bad
Looks good, Alot of panels ive ran into need more than that. (Got some for a 63 chevy that had a round bead instead of square, or other way around)
Excellent work you understand what it takes to make a lot of things fit a hot rod. Referred ardeem to your thread, he was complaining about the fit of Brookville Roadsters model A fenders. ardeem can learn something here from you. CRUISER
The reason the corners are left open is so you can adjust the angle as you wrap it around the subrail. Every car is going to be different. If they came with the corners all welded up tight, I'd bet 98% of them would be cut open again by the guy who installs them. You sure spent a lot of time making those flanges look pretty, but I bet you'll need to cut/bend them quite a bit more when you fit them to your car. Not trying to rag on you, just explaining why the manufacturer did that. Make sure to post more pics as you put them on the car.
I ran into the same shit with noah's car. The rar tail section was the same thing. Beads to big or not deep enough. And had the exact same problems with the cowl panels. We got ours from another company, but had to handle the beads all the same. I think ours were 1/4 in to wide though!
I don't have any sheet metal working tools so I really don't know the answer to this so maybe someone with experience can tell me. Why can't the patch panel makers put the correct size bead on the panel to start with? Don't the tools you use to make the beads have different sized rollers for making the beads? I would think if you are designing a patch panel with a bead then you are taking the measurements off of a good original and you wouldn't be so far off. I ran into this also with a Wolf panel, every bead and space between them was way off. Had to cut it into several pieces to make work. If only the beads were correct then it would have been so much easier.
Because there is no "correct" bead size. They will vary from car to car so what might fit perfect on one will be way off on another. The dies used would wear out over time and not be replaced which would change the dimensions of panels over time. I believe different manufactures built bodies as well so that would lead to variances from one body to another. We are talking about pretty rudimentary mass production here precision was not a real big concern.
If you want to give them benefit of doubt remember they were built originally on assembly lines at 3 or 4 different plants across the country so slight differences can be expected . We installed some rear quarters on a 57 chevy made by Dumbluck or something like that they were way to long but dad always cuts them off behind the door jamb and welds them in there so when you open the doors you cant tell it was done but I bet things like that would drive the new beginners nuts .
Yup! One side fits the subrail like a glove, the other side I'll need to cut back open. I left the backs split in a fit of good sense.
Yeah, I've been following ardeem's thread too. Fact of the matter is, even when I start a repair panel from scratch, just when you think the work is done don't start putting the tools away. Things change when you cut out the rust and are trying to fill that gaping hole with some thing other than what it came with.
To heyitsnate.....I saw this post a while back, since most people think the 35 and 36 Fords are similar it peaked my interest as these panels are much better than any of the previous reproduction cowl panels made and wondered what the problem was. It has taken a while to research this but I finally got in the junk pile to examine parts and think I have found the answer to your frustration. When 1935 Fords were made there was a design change made to the cowl sections approximately mid run and this was carried on to the 1936 body design. This change was identified by the design of the cowl side panel. If you look at the cowl side behind the hood side panel you will see that the area is either smooth or has a cross beaded x design and herein is the answer to the size issue with the cowl patch panel bead. There are two different bead widths The 1935 early version is actually a slightly wider bead than the later 35 and 36 cowl lower bead and it appears that the die was constructed using cowl dimensions from an early 1935 Ford rather than a 1936 Ford which would be the slightly narrower bead. Can they be used, well yes and no and the there are merits to both sides so I'm staying out of this. Hopes this puts an answer to the issue and I have contacted the Mfg regarding the part to get them informed.
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