First thing I thought. 2nd. What is in the metal cabinet? = aerosols get hot = leak / explode = fumes catch ....... I think you are underestimating the heat / danger of a wood stove. You need to respect it more. Good luck
Need picture of where the pipe goes through the roof. How many inches are between the pipe and any wood or roof material?
just fyi for you, in a garage situation like you are, I would raise the stove 18 inch above the floor, when we install water heaters in a garage like this our code requires it to be 18 inches above the floor, the reasion is, gas fumes are heaver than air and build up from the floor to point of ignition. i hope you never have that problem MikeB
I'm not a fan of those newer style stoves. My buck stoves will run you out the house if you let 'em get away from ya. Burning wood takes some finesse. I've seen some smaller drums mounted up the pipe with fans on them for more heat. There's also waste oil injection but I haven't read a whole lot about it.
Next time you fire the stove, get on a ladder and see how warm it is at the peak. I'd insullate and sheetmetal the inside of the garage. IMHO
Indian build small fire, sit close...white man build big fire, stay warm toting wood.LOL. I used to have a 100,000 btu torpedo heater that I would fire up to help warm the shop while I built a fire in the stove. You could do the same with your propane heater as its almost instant heat. Put it on the other side of the shop if you've got the room, and let the heat meet in the middle. Shut it off after the stove gets good and hot. Lots of good advice above. Good Luck!
I have roughly 2 feet of stainless pipe past the flashing support/vent on the outside which is ok according to the little paper that came with the stove because I'm not at the peak. My cabinet contains 6 jack stands and some 51 mercury stainless trim and ornaments. All aerosol cans are across the garage on the farthest wall. The roof on the inside when the fire seemed to be burning the hottest wasn't that warm at the top of the piping where the stainless pipe net the black pipe and I was able to touch the top piece of the black pipe. Bottom one was hot but not melt your skin off hot, heat was definitely radiating from the stove but not far and wasn't spreading.
My old mechanic has a Buck stove ( made here in Asheville). It is downstairs in the basement. He has it going into the duct work of the oil furnace and it heats his whole house and it heats the basement from its radiant heat also...I think its the Mama bear one...no glass front. He also has a second pre water heater that has a pipe running thru the Buck stove and it pre heats the water before it gets to his house water heater....the first few months he had this operational, the electric co come to change out his meter as they told him it was defective...Arthur just laughed and said ok....it lowered his bill that much. Arthur is well known in this town as a genius as to autos and anything else almost mechanical.
this is what i have done for years.start propane, build wood fire,go get cup-o-coffee.go back to shop. someone said put damper as high up as you can,i was told by store to put mine down low.which it rite?
The stove is WAY to close to the wall, and as pointed out, there is too much junk piled next to it. You'll need a pile of wood as big as the garage to heat it, which if bought at the gas station in bundles, will cost several times whatever you were spending on propane.
Also 90% of your heat goes straight up. It then stagnates at your ceiling. You need a fan some where (not necessarily behind the stove) to mix the air. I have a pellet stove that uses outside air for cumbustion, and has a fan to circulate the air from the stove. But I have a box fan (with a dimmer style switch ) that I have in the corner opposite the stove. Fan turns slowly and is aimed at the ceiling. It make a huge difference in the way the room feels, and how much fuel is needed to maintain the temp. Regardless of all that other stuff, Safety, Safety, Safety First.
My assessment is that your new stove is too far away from a damper and too close to combustible surfaces.
"Agree with above, hate to preach but I kind of enjoy it, Do Not use those Presto type logs! They are nasty and can be dangerous if use improperly. Also the final thing I can say is "if" you do have a fire with a non conforming set up, all the insurance company will say is "well boy, looks like you screwed up, sorry for your loss."
What's the crank handle on the side of the stove do? I understand about setting the heater off the floor because of vapors and all, but it seems to me that since heat rises you'd want your heat source as low as possible, yet most of the heaters you see in shops are mounted close to the ceiling, doesn't make sense to me..... I would definitely be concerned about fuel vapors or painting or doing anything that produced a lot of gas vapor in a garage with open flame heat, but I know that's how it's been done out in the country for ever.....
My friend made one into a boiler, ran the water to a dodge neon radiator. Fire outside, heat inside. Eventually converted it to waste oil.
I hate to be a downer here but... have you checked your home owners insurance policy I know mine does not allow me to have a wood burner in my garage I would hate for you to have a problem and be denied coverage
I read you have 2 open vents in the roof peaks with no barrier between , the peak in the roof will chimney all the hot air right outside probably as fast as the woodstove puts out heat. i would try to seal them off temporarly and see how the place heats. if it helps make 2 plywood flaps on hinges that you can close them off in the winter.
I have a wood furnace in my shop as well. A fan to move the air will do wonders, my furnace has a large squirrel cage and is rated to heat 3000 sq feet. I also bake meatloaf in mine, comes out awesome. Lota of good info on this thread for anyone looking to use wood heat
Heck we cook chili on ours and cornbread in a cast iron pan on top of ours,,not often,,only when the powers out. HRP
i have sent a few years doing R&D testing wood stoves, flue dampers and the like do nothing, your stove is not cast iron it's welded plate, the blue plastic coating on the plated brass trim should be removed before it burns off, there will be a label somewhere on your stove telling you how close to the wall it can be placed, i'm guessing about 8" to 10" from the corner to the wall, the flue should be as tall as reasonable, mine is about 10 ft from the top of the stove.
This is a old cast iron Franklin stove with a Magic Heat vent in the flue pipe,,,the empty beer cans are purely for decorations. HRP
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