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Technical wood clear coat

Discussion in 'Traditional Hot Rods' started by Annette Chaplin, May 8, 2025 at 9:15 PM.

  1. Annette Chaplin
    Joined: Apr 19, 2025
    Posts: 6

    Annette Chaplin

    What do you guys use to very shiny clear coat (foam brush or spray?) the wood top bows and tack strips? Minwax Urethane or Polyurethane, or what? Thanks
     
  2. metlmunchr
    Joined: Jan 16, 2010
    Posts: 876

    metlmunchr
    Member

    I like Minwax Spar Urethane which is made for exterior use. But, to get a really slick finish its best to use a lacquer based sanding sealer before the urethane. You can use multiple coats of urethane and sand between coats, but the urethane takes much longer to dry and is difficult to sand. The sanding sealer is made to be sanded and does so easily. What you're doing is filling the grain of the wood and sealing the surface so that your urethane is just a topcoat finish that isn't absorbing into the grain of the wood. If I'm working with large areas like a piece of furniture then I'd spray both the sealer and the urethane, but with small parts like top bows it would be better to brush the products on.
     
    alanp561 likes this.
  3. Use the Spar Urethane, the polyurethane is not designed to be used outdoors, a pure bristle brush does a better job. HRP
     
  4. Annette Chaplin
    Joined: Apr 19, 2025
    Posts: 6

    Annette Chaplin

    Thanks! Now, which Minwax Helmsman Spar Urethane do I purchase? There is oil based, water based, and a couple more I see during a GOOGLE search? Part number will really help, please? Lowe's is only a couple miles from me.

    I am not familiar with coating wood products. Other than "Barn-Fence" Paint, or the soaking of posts and poles in a 55 gal barrel of used motor oil, or the laborious task of cutting, splitting wood for winter heat.

    I am after a super gloss clear look on the Oak bows and tack strip. All the fasteners, (screws, nuts and bolts) are polished stainless. Thanks.
     
  5. When using Urethane products do not shake the can before using. That puts air bubbles in it just open and apply.
     
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  6. 2OLD2FAST
    Joined: Feb 3, 2010
    Posts: 5,886

    2OLD2FAST
    Member
    from illinois

    Look for clear epoxies , far more durable than any varnish .
     
  7. Jmountainjr
    Joined: Dec 29, 2006
    Posts: 1,817

    Jmountainjr
    ALLIANCE MEMBER

    I would look at marine spar varnish. Doesn't crack due to seasonal wood movement.
     
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  8. Annette Chaplin
    Joined: Apr 19, 2025
    Posts: 6

    Annette Chaplin

    Thanks for the suggestions. However, the question still lingers, which kind of those Spar Urethanes do I use, since there are several to choose from?
     
  9. brigrat
    Joined: Nov 9, 2007
    Posts: 5,991

    brigrat
    Member
    from Wa.St.

    Look up West Systems, they make lots of coatings for wood boats that are more UV friendly & last longer.........................................
     
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  10. jnaki
    Joined: Jan 1, 2015
    Posts: 10,725

    jnaki

    upload_2025-5-9_9-22-30.png
    Hello,

    We have used this product or variations of it over the years we have worked with wood. When my wife and I had an old folding oak high chair we purchased at an antique dealer. We had to strip it, then coat it with polyurethane for a strong finish.
    upload_2025-5-9_9-23-4.png
    The three coats had fine sanding between each coat and it looked like natural wood, but we knew it was well protected. When our son was eating “his foods” in his hands or tray surface, the sealer was almost non-destructible. When we gave him a baby fork and spoon for his bowl items, he could scoop them up and if one fell on the surface, it just stayed there until the fork came banging down. We both, initially thought of holes in the surface and were amazed.

    When we looked at the surface, not one scratch or mark where the baby fork hit repeatedly. Durable is shown in the coats I had put on to the surface. When the high chair was in the low position, he could not tip it over and most of the time, he liked being close to us as we worked in the kitchen and he was right there doing his toddler thing… in a well protected high/low chair.

    Jnaki

    So, what did we do after he was finished with his “eating style” in his chair? Well he was cleaned, first and now I took the high/low chair outside and hosed it off. The splatter of foods came off instantly and not one scratch or mark was anywhere to be seen. The sun dried off the items and yes, even the small metal wheels were coated with the hard liquid coating to make it one fast spray to clean off every particle that got into the stray spots. YRMV

    Note:

    Since those early days, we have used the same polyurethane in upgraded variations. The wood surfaces on our long line of sailboats wooden rails, doors, and hatchboards were well preserved. They lasted a long time in the harsh salt air/water splashes, constant moist air attacks daily and nightly, plus our constant bumping left no marks on the surfaces. It was one tough surface protection.

    No need to mess with any other oils or finishes. The polyurethane is the one always on display at hardwoods stores. The Varathane brand is probably the most reliable and strongest product. Minwax is also very good. For boating surfaces, those are good coverage products, but not as strong as the Varathane products. I still have one can each.
    upload_2025-5-9_9-24-7.png
    Oil based is stronger than water based.
     

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