I started remove the wood inside this old Texas race car 32 5W today as it will get to the blaster shop. I was into accid but heard it can cause issues down the road ( shop here say its just bad mouth talking ) They use a method call X-Rust 7. Anyway its a new floor and he will blaster it so it will be Ok. I was first into try to use the old wood as ’not that bad’ but it was cracked all over once start the work and a terrible smell after the ugly chop ( burned wood ) On this car I can’t understand why the removed the soft roof steel edge profile. I hope the sheet metal guy can fix it otherwise I need a new roof, Henry or a Pacific. TheTexas dry rust was a pain and it took a full day remove most of the bolts. I still strugle with some ( ex on one door its 2 of them try to stay there... I did use heat, oil and going back and fort. Wood was not easy get rid of either, hundets of small nails. Question. Where its best way find all this special screws/bolts to doors, wood, dash, door handles etc and the wood. Does this wood ( if a full kit ) require wood works to get fitted less than the 3.5” chop ? Is screws/bolts and a textile band between wood/steel included ? -Is there any drawings to find how to do it. Summer has finally come to Sweden so a nice day out working on the car and almost like So Cal... I had 2 cars before I has restore, one 68 Super Bee and a 70 Cuda both very nice Ca cars ( no rust ) so this was new to me get into 90 years old tech and beat up big time ! I can say I need Very good help on this body, and its ’decent’ and I payed converted ca 20K but its over my head ( I’m a machine guy )
My opinion is get a complete wood kit. As far as the roof. You might have less issues filling the top. But you need the wood under it to have something for the headliner. Good luck
I have replaced the top wood on a couple of cars. 31 Vickie and a 32 3W. I bought a sheet of 1/4" marine grade plywood (no voids), and cut it to 4 in wide strips. I did the sides at one time and the front and backs at one time. I put glue on 4 strips and clamped them in place. This gets them to the right curvature. I lapped the ends and glued it all together. The original wood had holes drilled half way thru for the ribs. Make them the same curvature as the ends, They were 1 in high and 3/4 in wide. It was a fun easy project and much cheaper the commercial bought wood. If you have lost the channels for the soft top, you don't need the marine plywood. That was only used to make sure the nails for the soft top nails would be secure.
I think I would get the body on a frame and get the doors, fire wall mocked up and work the inner structure from there. You may end up fighting each process without a firm foundation. You don’t build a house without a foundation. Just my 2 cents. Nice body btw
There are a number of places in the U.S. that sell wood kits for the’32 5-window. The only one I have any experience with is the UPAC as I bought a complete UPAC body and wood was installed. I can say that I am very happy with the fit and finish of it. I chopped mine 4” so I had to remove the wood from the b-pillars, quarter windows, rear window and doors and section them down to fit. As for the correct fasteners, you will probably have to source them separately but the are pretty much standard hardware items. I’m not aware of anyone who sells a kit.
Your postings usually start with a detailed description of your car. What isn't mentioned is the driver. Are you a tall individual? A 3 " chop is substantial and may prove crowded for drivers over 165 cm tall. I was originally going to " chop & channel " my Model A. I built the floor with a 2" channel and realized it's getting small in here. No way I (6'3" 193 cm)was going to fit in with a chopped roof. so now the long term plan is to un- channel it, mount it on a So -Cal pinched '32 frame and maybe chop 2"
I saw the wood lit from UPAC ( 2K ) but could not see if there was screws in the kit. -I has a full box here now with bolts and screws and most must be replaced. It might not be super special but I can't get it here in a local shop. I was hope to find a dealer that had kits as it's not the first time one need it, and its hard from Sweden order one by one. I could do steel brace inside ( Yes ) but need the soft roof in wood structure, and I think its more nice has it the way Henry made them. I'm 1.82 cm ( 71.65" ) and the seat I got with the car ( std but tuck n roll = now sold ) but at this chop it was working at my height but not much more. Side window std is 13" on a 5W but here its around 10" so its 3" chopped, but it might be 3.5" when body guy is done. Front window ( glass is = 7.5", se picture ) I don't like go 4" or 4.5", even if I use bomber seats. -This car has take many turns and I know I has ask a ton of questions and I showed several 'build sheets'... But I'm new in this and started last years so I'm in a kind of learning curve to know history, my style and what parts was used. It's a process ( now ) Sorry.
Like @chop&drop I have a UPAC 5w body and I was so wrapped with the look, fit and finish of the wooden structure that I sanded it down and clear coated it even though only me and the trimmer would ever see it. I don't know about fasteners for the installation of the wood kit but if you talked to UPAC they will know if they are available and now they are not assembling bodies anymore they may have some left over. Two kits which were essential which I purchased were the floorboard screw set and the interior trim kit. Both of these came from Macs, I do have their part # if you need it. The interior trim kit includes all the fasteners for inside the cabin and includes some wood screws, mainly for the garnish molds. All the fasteners are the same as used in the original cars and lots of them were not available here in Australia from our usual fastener suppliers.
Great, tell me the part number. I might call Pacific. They might can sell kits. Its a new body 5W nearby me, I will get a look tomorrow on all parts/woods. It do feel better after a cleaning pass of parts. Found a A-Ford front coss yesterday, I has not decided to use it but its hot-rod cool.
I know one has this system close to me, he bought it to clean a machine inside SSAB ( they make sheet metal to car industry ) I can borrow it. I had blaster part before ( CNC machine part years ago ) but I’m no pro, and I don’t like destroy this body ( the expensive parts still Ok on it.... ) It say no heat, remove rust and one don’t need avoid pland sides. Has no further info. Guy told me it works and I can do it, not him but he has not bought it for old cars as mentioned. https://www.dustlessblasting.com/lp/auto
I could use some of my wood parts inside and copy some bad but most is not Ok and roof is not complete. I’m far from a carpenter and I had no own tools for either weld or sheet metal works or in woods ( plus Zero experiance ) Could I learn, yes ( maybe but I’m not into that at age 57 ) One cool factor is use the old stuff and let some skilled person fix it. My first idea when I was into a chopped 3W was as Larry Rollers make steel structure inside and use bomber seats. But in this process I got more into a mix of ol hot rodding ideas and use the Henry stuff and just old parts and toush of patina ( still a nice car ) -So this get this project complicated. I see the option now is Pacifics wood kit. Not exactly what I like but it might be the best solution. I avoid all Kina parts and if this is US made and copy from Henry I can live with it. This weekend I was at a swapmeet ( early Ford only here in Sweden ) and I has a Kina truck handle but Henry door handles. I saw there new made door handles. I realise I can’t use any of that parts ( on this car ) as it destroy the total feelings.
I was looking to a new Pacific body now close to me, and wood is Ok, but maybe pricy as a kit, but if it fits its Ok. But one choice is ty get a carpetnter and re-use some of my old wood and made new parts on what missing. But one can say a Henry body is a Henry and the Pacific is what it is. It's allot of work on my body but I feel great I bought it. Shore I could bought a better Henry body but it should be more money plus travell and shipping, import costs. This body was 20 minutes from me. -I has rent a 'Dustless Blasting' ( water glass blaster ) so will try get on the body next week.
It is a 32, most Deuce guys prefer wood in the top and windows since it is used for trim. Something GM that was ALL WOOD structure it is considered kosher to frame it up in metal obviously.
If anyone from Sweden read this and know of a capetner that has the skill and experiance of wood in this old cars, let me know. -I might prefer that over the Pacific parts.
Any good woodworker can shape the parts. I made and modified a couple parts for a Vicky that you can't buy anywhere.
Fordwood offers individual pieces and complete wood kits for '32 5-windows: http://fordwood.com/cpe5win1932wood.html I got several of their pieces for my '28 Tudor. Shipping was a bit slow but quality was excellent. Hope this helps.
The upholstery....not sure if he tackles wood. That looks to be the original wood with a finish on it. Click on the pic.
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