My uncle gave me his 56 Chry Windsor (C-71, 331 spitfire, PowerFlite) 35 yrs ago when he moved to FLA. I ran it for about 6 yrs and put it away due to family and business. Now that the kids are married and out, I have time to put her back on the road. (Also found out how jealous a wife can be regarding a car!) So it has not run for about 30yrs. I have worked on the following..changed the oil and filter, new plugs, wires, points, condenser, rotor, distributor cap, replaced the master and all brake cylinders, new brakes shoes, had the drums turned, replaced the wheel bearings, replaced the power steering filter & fluid, new belts, dropped the gas tank had it flushed and resealed, had the radiator flushed and replaced the thermostat, greased the bushings, oiled the generator, cleaned the gas filter stone, cleaned the oil/air filter and got a new battery. Now my two questions I dropped the transmission pan and cleaned it and replaced the seal. However according to the service manual I should also drain the torque converter. The manual states rotate torque converter until drain plug is accessible. ..I opened up the plate and saw the torque converter but how does one rotate the torque converter"? Or should I just forget about it and fill the transmission up with fluid? Next question what have I missed (or should do) prior to cranking the ol gal over and putting her back on the road other than with new tires?
You need to spin the engine over until you see the drain plug on the converter from under the car looking through the square hole on the bottom of the bellhousing. Remove the plug and let her drain away!
Check the rear end grease. Did you use pre SM oil that has zinc or use an additive? The cam is bone dry now, so when you fire it up rev it up like a new build to get splash oil on the cam. Make sure none of the valves are stuck, You can watch while tirning engine over looking for the drain. the springs under open valves may have weakend a bit also.
This sounds basic but I grab a large screwdriver and use it to lever the ring gear over to rotate the convertor to find the drain plug - it may take a little time as you sometimes only move the ring gear a couple of teeth if you are on a compresiion stroke on a piston - if the plugs are out then it wil/should turn easier. Or if you have a partner use the starter motor to turn the engine over till you see the drain plug
Pull the valve covers mine was loaded with rust from the cover not being oiled for years. It would have circulated the rust thru the engine and probably destroyed it.
joh, sounds like youve got more than most people do coverd. lets see some picks of this rig. 56 chrysler is on of my favorite all time cars.
Thanks for all the advice. Will pull the plugs and try to move it. Won't be able to try it until the weekend and then only if I can sneak away from the wife. In the mean time, hopefully I have attached a photo just before I put it away and one under the hood.
Nice car, the forward look Mopars. I've got a 56 New Yorker myself, in the process of replacing window channel felt in the drivers door today. If it were mine, after that long of a sleep, I'd pull the valve covers and slowly turn the motor over by hand if you can, and have an assistant watch for valves that stay open. Some penetrating oil and a very light tap on the rocker tip will sometimes loosen them up if they're not stuck too tight. Sounds like you've got pretty much everything else covered. FYI, if you want to get rid of that single reservoir brake master cylinder and upgrade to a dual for a little more safety/peace of mind, one from a 1966/67 Charger with drum brakes is nearly a bolt-on as I recall. I put one on mine and I think all I had to do was put a different push rod in it. Here's a great source on the internet for help on these cars: www.forwardlook.net
The torque converter has 8 studs that go through the crankflange & has nuts on the backside. You really need to hope the engine isn't stuck.
Hemi tech index Your engine is the same as the hemi except for the complete head assembly, pistons & ex Mans. Get in the index & start reading!
Perhaps you might want to try a flywheel turning tool. One side grabs one tooth, the other side grabs a tooth about 45 degrees away from the first. Have had one of these for years, work great.
Thanks to all.... Took out the plugs (which I had just installed), pulled off the valve cover (good thing I found replacement gaskets), loosend up the new belts I put on,...and...low and behold I turned the engine and was able to get to the drain plug...Again...many thanks to all of you. I now need to fill up the transmission, install the refurbished radiatior, put the valve covers on, install the plugs, make sure I have the fireing order correct, fill the tank up, and keep my fingers crossed. I have been told to pour some gas down the carb and once started, to pour some marvel mystery oil down the carb....really? The funny thing is that my uncle kept excellent records and it shows that every time he changed the oil, he added one quart of this stuff to the oil. Does this stuff really work??
If the starter spins the engine now, I'd put a number of squirts of MMO in it & spin it over w/o the plugs to lube the cyl walls a bit. A little gas down the carb will help it to fire up. If it cranks up, rev it up some, you need splash oil on the cam. MMO seems to be good stuff. A lot of old timers add it routinely @ oil changes. The MMO down the carb is supposed to clean carbon out of the chamber, that can wait till it has been running for a while( hours/days ect). If it has been sitting a long time you probably should index the engine & pull the dizzy & Int. shafr & run the oil pump up so that the system has oil through it. Each bank of rocker only gets oil @ one point each revolution, 1 bank then later the other later. You'd have to have one turning the engine over with a bar while you spin the oil pump.
After having the carb rebuilt, (by Hobbs of Pelham NH..about 40mi from my house), the ol' gal started like it was yesterday I last drove her. I did pour Mavel oil down while racing the engine. Now off to a body shop to get a few blemishes repaired and fresh coat of paint. Many thanks to all for some EXCELLENT advice...
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