1952-59 Ford Working on the '59

Don't think I've ever heard a "pumpkin" called a "ham".

 

I didn't start the rumor that you were chained up in the ba*****t as a child and raised by wolves...

 

New horn ring for the Ford.

 

Was that hard to find Bob?

 

Actually no. There are a lot of horn rings around. But most are used and pitted and worse than the one on my car. I thought this was a nice used one when I bought it... no clue it was a new piece.

 

Is looks really nice.
I've got no clue as to how one can remove such a piece from the steering wheel. Never looked 'cause I didnt need to but its a bit puzzling to me.
Regards

 

This appears never to have been installed. They come off easily, press down and give it a twist, pops right off. But the horn will blow.

 

RUI.You press down and turn counter clockwise 1/4 turn.I

 

I forget which way, one or the other. There is a spring behind it you have to overcome.

 

Really?, never needed to, but always thought Id probably break something removing that plastic center piece to access a nut or so... Thants for the tip guys,

 

The plastic piece stays on, just push down and turn.

 

Got the sway bar installed today, it was pretty nice out, close to 60. I have yet to drive it since the rear is out of the car. I should have the new 3.89 posi later in the week.

 

Limited slip differential is in. Wasn't that bad since the old one was already out and everything was cleaned up.

 

Nice! Get a chance to try it out?

 

Been out pounding on it the last 2 days, of course to the break-in instructions. Pulls stronger and I feel both tires bite when I chirp 1-2 and 2-3. Less squirrely as well, still some wheel hop at the 1-2 shifts. Between the bigger sway bar, new springs/ bushings and rear, its like a different car.

 

Glad to hear it!

 

I drove it around after work to my cardiac rehab and went for a ride after 10 with my brother last night. More room to open it up a little and less traffic.

 

I've had a problem with the car pulling to the right, checked the air pressure, spun both wheels and shook down the front end. Everything seemed okay, so I let it slide a week. So after work I let the car cool down, the left front wheel also felt like it was scrubbing in turns and the top of the tire seemed tipped in.

Looked at the shims, all there and tight. Pulled the LF tire, caliper, rotor. Looked at the bearings, all good. Gave it a little more grease. Looked close at the shocks, ball joints and so on. I'm set to put the tire back on and had a WTF moment. The left lower control arm, the rear bolt was out by a good 1/2 inch. The front by a 1/4 inch. That explained everything since it was kicking the upper ball joint back. The car will pull to the leading upper ball joint, which was on the right. Tightened the carp out of it, the other side was slightly loose. I had tightened these when I did the alignment last fall. I'll have to watch them and use some loc-***e if it happens again.

 

Just a thought

I ***ume you also installed the washers between the lower controller arm bushing when you did the front end last year. I have seen some people miss them on tear down and with out them the bolts can work loss

 

The new bushings and the arm fit the ch***is so tight, I left the washers out, but I have them. I have to consult the manual to see where they go.

 

Just my 2 cents...I was pulling to the left when applying the brakes. I wasn't sure what was going on. Turns out the control arm bushings were shot. Replacing them resolved the pull.


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Bob, I thought the same thing when I rebuilt the front suspension on my car. Turns out they need to be in there. I had to pry the arm back enough to slide the washers in. It actually was alot easier than it sounds.

 

My buddy with a shop offered the use of his lift, so that's a help. If I can put a stand under the arm while I slide the bolts out it should go okay. The rest of the front end is 100% new.

 

It wasn't nearly as bad as I thought it would be. I used a floor jack under the end of the arm to put a little pressure on it and the bolt slid out with no problems.

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I have to dig out the washers, I know they are in the top of my tool box. I don't recall how many there were and where they go, hope the manual gives some insight.

 

I clipped this out of a parts site, should be the same as what the manual shows. The $64k question, where do the washers go? I think they have a flat on them IIRC. The arrow points to a washer, but it may be the curved one that is outside of the ch***is.

 

Number 3054 is the one your looking for. It goes between the a arm and the crossmember. The curved one is the one that goes over the bushing. You should be able to pull the bolt out far enough to put the washer (s) in. My car only had one per side but I think it will vary from car to car. The Street Rodder article said they are a sort of alignment shim.

 

Thanks, I see it now. I believe it was 1 per side, I'll see how many I have in my bag of tricks. I can always copy them if I need more. The arm position does have an impact on caster for sure. As soon as I socked up the loose bolts my pull was gone.

 

Been working on the car along, but not taking many pictures. Boring stuff mostly, keeping it going. I need to take some pictures of my traction bars, cheapo Summit brand, but the car hooks up great. It may have been a prelude to my current issue.

I managed to break my 4-speed a week ago. On the way to the gym, 1-2 shift at about 3500 RPMs, all well and good. 2-3 shift... BANG!! It blew out of 3rd on me under power. I've done it before, but I think the ch***is and springs have some of the slack out of them with the traction bars. I limped home in 4th gear, a short ride maybe 3 miles and all back roads. Glided through the stop signs, actually made 1 complete stop. Of course I p*** a group of neighbors on my block with a very noisy transmission.

Long story short, the M20 is with a local transmission builder getting fixed. I broke the gear on the input shaft and 1st gear on the cluster is blown. It apparently has a cluster shaft pin problem, was possibly spinning in the case and allowing the cluster to bow away from the main shaft. The 7/8" pin is being upgraded to 1" and I'll either be getting good used or new parts put in. I told him to go through the rest of it while it was apart.

I have to go onto the main HAMB board and steal some pictures in a bit.

 

Here we go.