<font color="green"> A'ight kids, Here's the deal.... Mama ain't happy, and when Mama ain't happy, No one in the Northern Hemisphere is happy. Why is MAMA not happy? Because the POS 1999 Blazer we bought her as a daily is proving to be nothing but a piece os fecal matter. The problem this time? No heat. Who wants heat right now? No one in Oklahoma. However, the defogger doesn't work without it. I have checked all the vacuum lines and the actuators seem to be working. I can't figure out if there is some sort of valve on the heater lines and if so, where and how is it actuated? It is not under the hood. OK now. Extra points for someone who can help me with an answer or a site where I may find an answer. Beatings? I fully expect a few for this question. Lord knows I've dealt a few out. Make it good, I've been very naughty!!! RASHY </font>
[ QUOTE ] Make it good, I've been very naughty!!! [/ QUOTE ] Your too willing.That takes all the fun out of it.
I have a 96 Isuzu S10, there is only one vaccuum line with a tee that controls the actuators and everthing else that runs on vaccuum. If it blows hot through the vents and not the defrosters, check everything that looks like a vaccuum line.
<font color="green"> It doesn't blow hot anywhere. I thought about the heater core, but what could be wrong with it? </font>
[ QUOTE ] Your too willing.That takes all the fun out of it. [/ QUOTE ] <font color="green"> There is a method to my madness!! Coolant level is fine. But, you're right, I never thought of that. </font>
wait rashy a 99 blazer? I think they have solonoid operated "doors" if I were you I'd check the coolant in the radiator. if it looks dirty it may be an indication that the heater core could be plugged. which could be the reason for lack of heat.. I have a coworker who had a similar problem in his ford, it turned out to be a plugged heater core. the bad news.. flushin the system sucks (prohably a job for a shop to do, then again I never had to do it.) oh and worse than the flushin part, just try removin a heater core from any new car... good luck..
'99? Isn't it under a warranty? TAKE IT BACK! If not, you'd be better off buy'in her complainin' ass a '85 C/K Blazer...way easier to fix...
If I were you, I would rather trade it in for another car than try to change the heater core. I had a both an '82 and a '92 S-10 and it was pure hell changing the heater core in both of them....I can only imagine that a '99 would be much worse. From what I understand, S-10's have been plagued with shitty heater cores from their inception...it's a common problem. Is the carpet getting wet at all? If not then it's probably a "door" problem as mentioned above...meaning the "door" that opens to direct the hot-air where you want it is not moving. All that shit under there is plastic, and is prone to breakage or working loose.
<font color="green">Bass, It was good meeting you in Dallas. It is out of warranty. She bought the x warranty but I hate taking things in. I would rather fix it myself. There is no evident leak and no loss of coolant. I think tomorrow I will disconnect them vacuums one at a time and move the actuators by hand and see if we get heat. If not it's going in. RASHY </font>
If your not getting anything out of the vents it's a good chance it the heater control switch. They have been know to go bad on those s10's and blazers.
hey rash, are both heater hoses hot? if not, you got a water valve(if it has one) or a plugged heater core(not uncommon with dexcool,the orange death)
You bought the extended warranty (usually $600- $1000) and you're not going to take it in?!?! WTF? I understand not wanting to pay the dealer, but YOU ALREADY DID!
<font color="green"> Jeez, Haven't thought to check the heat on the hoses, I'll do that. I guess a backflush may cure a clogged core. Unfamiliar with this new coolant. Air blows out of the vents and there seems to be a VERY slight temp change between hot and cold setting. Never as hot as it should be and I can't seem to locate my thermometer. When I flip the switch from hot to cold I can here something happen inside that thing but maybe it's just not moving all the way. Anyone know if this setup has a flow control valve or is the temp controlled by ducting? </font>
<font color="green"> The warranty purchase was against my advice. She's old enough to make her own decisions. However, if it's an easy fix, which it now isn't. Why pay the deduct? Go through the hassle of taking it and being without it? </font>
get your moneys worth, get the warrenty $$ to cough up the doe. My ol lady's Caddy puked a temp fan on the radiator, engine light came on, only the dealer knew what to do, so I got back$4oo of the $1ooo I paid so far, also there are 2 computers in the F$%^$N car, I don't know shit about it ,have them fix it!
It's the control panel in the dash. It's all a printed circuit. Did it on my 95. Changed panel board or control panel and fixed it. What do I win? TP
if you deductable was less than say 500 bucks i would take it to the dealer... i have one fleet that i maintain that had a 92 s10, and it took two of use about 5 hours to swap a heater core, while your at it you can change everything from the fire wall back because you will either have it out or loose, and i mean everything!!! such as complete dash, instrument cluster, radio, front of dash all lower panels, steering column dropped and more fucking brackets with imposible to locate screws than any sane manufacture would use in a whole car. oh and it would be easier to get out if your remove the front seat and both doors... my vote, take it back, way back...... bob
Had the same problem with Mrs Krupas 99 Blazer. Flush the core. Get two of the kits and flush it both ways.
Heater Valve Control. Follow the heater hoses back to the fire wall. They should end at the control valve. If you haven't found the control cable yet, wedge yourself under the dash and find the other side of the valve. Have someone operate the temp control while you see if the valve moves. Does the Temp control have any resistance? It should have some...
Does it have that great DexCool Antifreeze in it? If so, I would check for half of your engine block stuck in the core... Or so the pending law suits say... M-
Rashy, darlin? Tell u whut I'm gonns do! Trade the Roothawg or die xoupe for it. Guarandamntee you wont have any problems sith it you cnt fix.
Yep, I bet it's the heater control valve, on the heater hose. The arm might be moving to open/close the valve to keep hot water from going into the heater core. but not the gate. It's know to rust or freeze shut, check water on the back side of this valve. Between the valve and heater core. Good luck, got to keep Ma happy
<font color="green"> Can't even see the heater hose once it goes into the firewall. The dealer gets it tomorrow. Thanks guys RASHY </font>
<font color="green"> Oh yeah, Both heater hoses are hot. I think the thing is getting water but the trap door that redirects the air is either not moving at all or not completely. Fuck it. Who am I to take work away from some Chevy tech? </font>
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