Looking for advice on a cam for my 292. Ive got a B manifold on it and a 600 edelbrock. Ordered the pertonix and a coil. Done some searches and no real part numbers show up cams. Its always just" I ran isky" or "I ran mummerts" and so on. Anyone have a good stick for this mild setup I have and have a number so I now what to order? I hear the isky e4 is good but again Im doin alot of searchin and not gettin a good answer. Thanks guys and sorry if I may have overlooked this info somewhere.
I have had excellent results from the Isky E4 I am running in my 55 ford.It is a stick car and I am also using a 600 Edelbrock and a B manifold.Engine starts and idles well and pulls like a tractor right off idle.
Howard's 292002-10 is a good street cam. Remember changing lifters must be done from the bottom and cam timing the dots don't aline.
Awesome thank you sir. Ive done a little research on em and had seen that on the lifters. Im going to be replacing those ase well as the springs and pushrods and all while Im at it.
Its almost impossible to install those lifters from the bottom. I just stuck an original grind Isky E2 bumpstick in my T Bird and added 1.7 roller rockers. I tried like a MoFo to get those lifters in from the bottom with the engine still in the frame but there was NO WAY to get them all installed - So out came the engine ! Just sayin. Oldmics
I was able to get the lifters in from the bottom, but it was not a lot of fun. On a couple of lifters near the rear of the engine I had to take the rod caps off and push the piston to the top before I could get the lifters in. I'm sure I could have had the engine out for the time it took but at the time I didn't have the facilities to do it.
You can get the lifters in from the bottom telescoping magnet and clothespins and 2 people I to push the lifter in and one to put the clothespin on the keep the lifter in place.
Its still pretty ***** in my opinion. Thats why I added the 1.7 rockers. Cam info on ORIGINAL E2 grind is Cam Lift =.294 Duration =257 Event Sequences =Intake - Opens 15.5 BTDC Closes 61.5 ABDC Exhaust - Opens 61.5 BBDC Closes15.5 ATDC Lobe Center 113* There were a coupla different versions of the Isky E2 that were configured over the years.So not all E2 grinds are the same. I felt that this one was best for the stupid **** I am trying. I would suggest that any cam you install should be installed with some advance. The factory cams from that era (up to 1957) all had 4* of advance already configured into the factory grind. Puts me at a reasonable .499 lift total lift. And for Christ"s sake - make sure to use hardened lifters ! Get them from Mummert. Oldmics
Yep, and as soon as you fart those clothspins will jump off that oily lifter and you will be diggin them outta the bowels of the engine. As well as the fun of some fluids dripping on your head. (STP in my case) I am not saying it cant be done. Its just a real test of a mans patience to do it. Ask me how I know . Oldmics
I shouldnt have any issues installing. The cars a 37 ford coupe so plenty of room without the fenders
I used a factory spec supercharger cam in my 272. I do not have the specs but it had a good idle and low end torque. Used the high lift rockers............make sure you take a video trying to change the lifters upside down.......LOL
I was curious about if the supercharged 312s had a different profile. Im gonna research that and see if I can find specs to get one ground to that. Really like the idea of that.
The standard blower engines had the same camshaft as a regular single 4 bbl engine. The one everbody desires is the DSO version. There are a coupla versions ( Phase 1 and Phase 2)of that stick. P.M. me and I can give you the whole run down. The blower cam is not a good choice for a standard induction setup. (single 4 bbl.) The lobe center is ground for blower pressure and doesnt preform super well with carbs. (Unless you **** with it a lot) Other sticks will out preform the blower cam if you are using carbs. Oldmics
Oldmics will give you all the specs and great advice. If you go to Mummert's site and look at the idle/usage description of his cams, they're pretty accurate. If anything I found them a bit conservative. I've run 3 of his cams in the bird and the 32, all were good. But they're light cars, and two of them were blower motors. But you can trust his specs and description and compare them to the factory spec's Oldmics has offered.
Many many yrs ago at a drag strip 1958- 1961 a friend used an E2 in a 312 Y motor and it gave good preformance for a Ford If the Chevy boys were having a bad day or slipped on the flagman he had them.
Back in 76 I was building a 292 using old R&C little book article for advice. I called Isky about a cam they suggested. I was told that the T-Bird supercharger cam was basically a good street cam with good overall pulling power. They were right. I had it in a 55 F100 and commuted between Reno and Carson City while I worked at the Harley shop. I hauled bikes, pulled trailers and it hauled ***. It got good mileage with a 600 Holley carb and a Mallory duel point va*** dizzy. It had F700 ram horns and turbos. I ran a three speed trans at first and later went to a 4 speed. The rear was stock 3.7 something. I would tell Isky how I was going to use it and go with it.
I agree that's why I put the lifers in dry put cam lube on the camshaft and install the can with the cam gear and pour oil on the top side of the lifters while spinning the cam to lube them.
If you put in new adjusting screws for the rockers, get a set from Smith bros in Oregon. The ones I got from Mummert were too soft and the Crower screws for FE engines (fir y-blks too) were also too soft. Keep your cam profile to pull torque in your driving range. A big hp cam coming on at 3500 rpm won't be much use for normal driving.
So heres a question. What about the y-265-s or the y-270-s from mummert. And any use for the small 4bbl honey pot carb mani's? i got one of those and a carb but wasnt sure if it'd be worth keeping to use on some other build or not?
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