I have a 56 Mercury Convertible and need to remove the oil pan to replace rod bearings. Can the pan be taken off without removing the engine? Has anyone done this? If so I am looking for problems and hints. Thanks Larry
I bet you have to lift the engine at a minimum. re-***embly will be a lot easier if you take the engine out
read the factory shop manual? I expect it's not as bad as some would be, you do have to deal with the oil pickup line, but it's a deep skirt block, and the pump is outside the pan, so you don't have the usual issues to deal with of having to drop the pan way down to get it to clear the pump. Have fun, that's a nasty job.
Yes it is.. I’ve done it twice. For me I removed the sway bar and at an earlier time removed the “steady rest front mount”. The manual will state which cylinder needs to be at TDC. My car has power steering so I need to work around the lines. The oil pump line from the pan is a 1” nut to squeeze a donut rubber bushing and I use a double ended 1” open with 2 different angles and it’s a thin wench. I have the car up about 10-12” at the front and 8-10” at the rear…It’s not fun on your back at 75 years old but now that I know how it takes me about 1 hour or less. I’ve had the oil pump off 3-4 times for minor drip leaks and replacement. I use “Best” gaskets.
I'm pretty sure that you have to do what others have suggested plus dropping the steering linkage. I remember the steering linkage being in the way on my 57 T-Bird. I have a 56 Mercury Factory Service Manual. Dropping the oil pan is not something they outline in service with engine in car. However, I'm sure you can do it.
The bird pan comes off going backwards so the steering needs to move. The car pan comes off going forward so it does need to move.
I am sure I have an engine knock. I expect to partially remove the steering arms and will probably have to jack the engine up. I appreciate the comments. It won't be a fun job but I should able to get it done. Larry
I’ve never had to raise the engine in a stock 56 ch***is. I’ve had both heads off for valve lapping and added positive stem seals (best thing I ever did for the engine). I did need to remove #6 piston.