I'm redoing a y-block for my wife's car and I wanted to go from the road draft tube to the PCV. Anyone have pics of how they ran the PCV? Thanks Z
Y Block PCV. http://www.ford-trucks.com/forums/1330380-restore-pcv-on-a-62-y-block.html Check the link, there are also good color pictures.
I like how you're approaching this build Squirrel. Hopefully this engine is around long enough to see how many trouble free miles she does down the road. With a good maintenance schedule, I'll bet its plenty of miles.
You are a unique individual that few understand. I seen you in the pits at Fontana Raceway when you drove your Nova out and also raced it not but a few month's ago. I didn't have the nerve to come up and say hello but we did make eye contact. You just smiled. It made me think, and it still does.
It seems the repairs you are doing will accomplish what you want and have it run nice and should be reliable for many more miles. Also agree with being appropriate for the end results that are required.
Ha, ha, ha. Gotta admit, I was wondering what you had up your sleeve. 5000 miles in a musty old Edsel in desert heat? You are a glutton for punishment. But you do know how to have fun! Are you gonna take the same approach with some of the other vital systems like brakes, transmission and cooling system?
Yeah, I'm going to just fix what needs fixing. I plan on either replacing or repairing the brake hydraulics, I'll leave the shoes if they're ok (I haven't looked at the fronts, but the rears have enough lining left, and the drums are still original size, never turned). The water pump is getting replaced, the fuel tank is missing, the fuel pump probably needs a new one, the transmission, we'll see. I am going to see if I can re use the existing clutch pressure plate, but I might have to get a new rebuilt disc because the new free transmission I found is the wrong spline. I'm gonna see if the radiator works...it had some coolant in it, and looks only partly plugged up. A friend has one from a 59 ford that I can probably get for free, that might be in better condition, if needed.
but I do need tires, and I bought a pair of new ones today, 205/75R14 made in Thailand, for $59 each out the door. I mounted them on a couple of the old rims. I'll bubble balance them when I get around to it. Only two of the tires that were on the car held air, and only for a matter of hours.
I knew you weren't just sitting around waiting for parts to come in the mail...... That old luxury sedan has a manual transmission?!?!
it's really a bare bones car, it's a little bigger than a ford, but not much more luxurious. Probably part of the reason the brand flopped.
Love the build, pulled a few similar "rebuilds", they aren't 100k engines but the rings always seated, some were stock some got run hard and held together just fine. Keep posting details.
What size clutch do you have Jim? I've got a 10 in. 3500# Schafer pressure plate and wide spline disc, plus a good used fine spline disc. You just need a good left leg. Yours for the shipping. PCV, just tap down the baffle in the valley pan a bit so a pcv valve will fit in it, install a grommet in the valley pan and run a hose to a carb base plate.
Jim, Check the timing mark on the balancer. The outer ring is known to move like the SBC. I found this out when I went to start my 272.
I thought Jim was cutting a few corners on this one... then it comes out. He's building a hand grenade. The term was coined by one of my stock car ***ociates. We ran a claimer cl*** and engines were getting taken left and right. So a bunch of us used engines provided by our junkyard sponsors. A nice 4-bolt 350 from a truck was the crown jewel if we could snare one. Used or wrecked cars often gave up engines for the cause. Just plug and play using our race parts. Cam, lifters, timing chain, intake, carb and distributor. Paint it up and hope someone claims it, which never happened. They ran strong enough to run in the top 5 most nights. I saved my last one for use in my current project. So I take it apart last fall.... long story short, the thing was largely trashed inside, I wonder how I pulled 6500 RPMs out of it for hundreds of laps. Timing chain... shot. Heads and pistons, 76cc heads and 8.6:1 pistons. 6 of the lifters were not turning, 4 lobes on the cam were almost round. I never saw so much **** in an oil pan before.
I've driven a "hand grenade" many miles because that's all my early years would allow. It's all in how one drive's their hand grenade that will determine the out come.
Jim, the one cam bearing being worn so much worse than the others makes me wonder if the cam is straight, or if the cam bearing bores might have slight misalignment? What's your take on it?
The four rear cam bearings were all worn quite a bit, the center one a bit more than the others. The wear would only allow the cam to drop a couple thousandths of an inch in the center, so it's not like the cam would be bent from this. I'm not going to worry about it...if it were a racing engine or something, then I might worry about it. But I'd also want to figure out a way to use some wider cam bearings! these ones are just too narrow. The front cam bearing is about a quarter inch wider, and seems to be worn very little.
You have to realize what you have and respect the limitations. With the stock cars the trick was to keep the revs under 7000, use a 50-WT racing oil and let it warm up before hitting the track. And keep it cool.
Take a moment to re-read this whole thread to see exactly what it is Jim is doing which includes the condition's in which it will be driven. He's not going to "Buzz" the bee gee bur's out of that Y Block.
Someone probably already mentioned this and you probably already know but if the car has been setting it is probably going to need the valves lapped. if I had the heads apart I would normally do that anyway just for grins. I am sure that you already know this trick too and it is probably out of budget but when we used to get a mill that was a little on the loose side but the bores were pretty straight we used to snag a set of forged pistons and hone the cylinders to fit. Saved an overbore. That is not so easy with an edsel but I can still usually find a set of forged pistons in someone's stash for most "normal" engines. LOL
The pistons are fine! The valves look ok too, I did clean some carbon off a couple of the exhausts that were caked a little bit. Most of them had shiny metal on the seating area of the valve and seat. They all sound good when they close.
Cool I have commonly found a valve or two that has a little surface rust after setting, but I have actually lived in a dry climate.
I am not quite sure why they parked it, or when the transmission got messed up, but my guess is the trans is what was really keeping it from driving. No oil, cooked driveshaft yoke, shrapnel in the bottom of the gearbox.
This thing will lead an easy life, that's for sure... Got a bunch of parts in the mail today, going back together...4 of 5 new cam bearings in, lifters in, cam in, used main bearings in, crank in with a new pilot bushing in it, new timing chain installed on the old worn sprockets with 12 pins between the dots on the correct side. I hope it works! (the new front cam bearing was tight, I just popped it out and put the original back in, it didn't have much wear)
I was an apprentice when those 'Y's first came out. My worst exposure was in three '56 Fords: one 272 and two 292s came in with broken camshafts. We specialized in Ford/Mercury. The last one, a 292 in a '56 4 dr hardtop had broken in FOUR places! Five little 5" pieces, all had to be drawn out with a 'lizard looper'. (outer tube of a car radio antenna with a doubled 'loop' of baling wire thru it. Just push it thru the cam brgs and l***o the stub; then pull it out, ever so slowly...) Made for a 'smart apprentice': Any time thereafter I recommended an engine rebuild, for all the collateral damage... Mayfield's Garage, since 1946. "Best Garage in Town." (I chuckled years later when I read that about Smoky Yunick!) I worked for Red Mayfield until 1962. I had a '56 convertible I did some 'tuning' on, in '59...92 MPH @14.20, not bad for a stocker... Loved them 'Y's...
This is making for an interesting thread. I'm really enjoying the "fixing just what needs to be fixed" approach. That's a nice change of pace. Those rocker shafts sure looked gnarly though. This isn't a case where you can rotate the shafts 180° and put the worn surface on the top, is it? Maybe plug and redrill a couple of the oil holes if necessary? And that's a serious looking timing chain, ain't it. Looks like something off an old blower drive.
The Jalopy Journal
