Ok, Im getting ready to start on the rear main seal tomorrow. Got the tool to do it with and also the neoprene seal. Any advice or tips on how I can accomplish this? How long should I expect this to take? It will be done while the engine is still in the car. I know I have to take the oil pan off, then loosen the main caps. Then pull out the bottom seal and replace it. Pull out the top seal and then fish my tool all the way around and grab the new seal and pull it thru. Is it really that easy? Also, what type of lubrication should I use? or should I use something else? You guys are the experts, just tryin to learn! Thanks, Rocky
Smear some STP on the upper seal before you install it, it will slide through easier when you push it through.Be sure to put a small dab of RTV on each end of the new seal let it set up about 10-15 minutes before you bolt it down,probably about a 2-3 hour job including a PBR break.
Rocky ,THERE IS NO EASY WAY OF REPLACING THE REAR MAIN SEAL !!!! When I worked for Ford and replaced way too many of those ****py rope seals , I would soak the rope seals in oil as I was tearing down the oil pan to get to the rear main seal . I learned that it was easier and faster most of the time to just loosen all the main caps and pull the crank down about 1/8" to 1/4" then it will slide in very easily . Then re-torque the mains and put everything back together . YES it's more work but a lot less aggravating in the end ! It takes about 5 mins more time to loosen the mains and install the rear main seal instead of taking that worthless tool that is suppose to pull the seal around that rear main cap ! Then consider all the time of cussing and throwing tools all over the garage because that tool you bought doesn't work that nicely as they say it will ! Good Luck ! Jim
Hahaha, thanks guys. Now I'm really looking forward to PBR breaks, cussing and throwing tools! Really seems that pulling the crank down a little and installing the seal that way would be better than that cheap little tool that I bought. Can I find the torque specs in the service manual? Jim, I'm gonna have to get another cd cuz I dont know what happened to mine. I'm gonna look some more tonight and try to dig it up. I'll let you know.
Oh, also have a question about the straight seals and pins that come with the neoprene style seal. Do I need to go ahead and replace those too? where do they go? Thanks again!
Rocky , if they have the pins to hold the seal from moving just leave them there . Here are the torque specs you will need . Jim http://www.flickr.com/photos/lovefordgalaxie/5284592574/
Man putting a BM in is easy as pie,just take the pan off take the back main cap off turn the motor over by hand while pushing the old seal out, oil the new seal and turn the motor over while you pushthe new one in... slowly nothing too it. I put one in my 256 in about 2 hours.
Psh, piece o cake!!! Loosened the main caps and used that p.o.s tool I bought to get it out. The flimsy thing actually worked. Just screwed the cork screw into it all the way, then gave it a good tug and voila! Put it all back together. Havent filled it up or fired it yet cuz I had other things to do. Hopefully in the next day or so I can get back to it. Thanks everyone for the help, it's always greatly appreciated! Now that the seal is replaced, its on to a pcv valve project. Should be fun.... Rocky
It was also known as a "Chinese finger" which was after the tool that was used to pull in the new rope seal.
I used long needle nose pliers to pull mine out . Worked for me but everyone had their own idea on how to replace them back in the 70's . Glad you got it replaced ! Jim
Does the oil pan just drop out? Or do you have to lift the motor up or take anything else off to get the oil pan off? I've got a mighty leak and I'm pretty sure its the rear main,ugh. Thanks
I have often wondered if its the actaul seal that leaks or the sides and top of the aluminum part that holds the bottom half in. I clean all the parts with spray brake or carb cleaner. I use a dab of sealer on the threads of the two bolts, the top of the seal retainer, and I squirt a dab in the slots before I tap in the two side pieces. Then I smear some sealer over all the seams when I put on the pan. I like blue or red silicone by Permatex.
You just need to move the pan around so you can get that rear main loose and the seal in and out . Don't have to come out . Heck that just more work ! I use the Blue silicon and works very well . It also blends in very well with a Blue painted engine . Just make sure you put some where the seals meet and on the rear main cap at the crank side (just a tiny dot will work) before you torque it back down . That is where more leaks happen after people replace their rear main seals . The reason the rope seals leak is because they dry out and get hard over time . Another thing that will help with oil leaks is to keep the pressure from the oil pan area is to have breathers on both valve covers . The more that engine breaths , the less chances you will ever have an oil leak around the oil pan and rear main seal area ! When the pressure has no place to go , it will find a way to relieve the pressure ! That is usually the rear main and oil pan . Also remember just to SNUG he oil pan bolts down ! Just a good thing to remember ! Jim
Does anyone have pics of the breathers in valve covers? Is there a certain kind to use? The car didn't leak any oil when I first got it on thanks giving,but I had to take that cover that goes over the bottom of the clutch off (there was a washer off the starter Bendix rattling around in there) I kinda wonder if I broke the seal on the oil pan and its not the rear main. The puddle of oil that drips doesn't drip all in one spot,it actually drips in a long line,that's about a foot wide,I gotta get under there this weekend so i'll be ding a bunch of checking to see what I can see. That seal kit looks like its gonna be handy,will for sure be picking one up if its the rear main seal I gotta change. I really need to get a book on this thing,she's a blast to drive with that 3 on the tree but slow as all hell haha
Does anyone have pics of the breathers in valve covers? Is there a certain kind to use? The car didn't leak any oil when I first got it on thanks giving,but I had to take that cover that goes over the bottom of the clutch off (there was a washer off the starter Bendix rattling around in there) I kinda wonder if I broke the seal on the oil pan and its not the rear main. The puddle of oil that drips doesn't drip all in one spot,it actually drips in a long line,that's about a foot wide,I gotta get under there this weekend so i'll be ding a bunch of checking to see what I can see. That seal kit looks like its gonna be handy,will for sure be picking one up if its the rear main seal I gotta change. I really need to get a book on this thing,she's a blast to drive with that 3 on the tree but slow as all hell haha
You can buy the from Speedway , Jegs , Summit or any other speed shop . They are aluminum and you can buy them in different angles so the can be mounted anyplace on any valve cover . Just put "Oil Breather" in the search and that should work . Jim
The breathers can let in dirt as well as let air in and out of the engine. I like to use a new filtered oil cap, and a good PCV. Clean in, clean out. No leaks.
Ok well to get my top rope seal out all I did was screw a long screw into it,long enough to be able to grab it with a pliers and then just pulled it out,easy peasy. Today I'm putting it all back together,the question I have is do I bother replacing the side seals with the pins? Or should I just leave the old ones in and cover everything with RTV? Thanks for the help
I'm with you Don. The sump is easy to slide off if you turn the motor over to #1 TDC. You may also need to drop the two front sway bar bushes to allow the bar to drop down. Then it is pretty much a no brainer. Ford went a long way towards fixing the oil leaks from the rear seal when they cast an oil slinger onto the 56 cranks. The earlier engines don't have that lip. Regards
Here's a how to: http://www.eatonbalancing.com/blog/2008/09/10/neoprene-rear-seal-installation-for-the-y-and-others/
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