Gents- I want to install a T5 (world class) on my 239 Y-block. Will the current 3 speed clutch, pressure plate and release bearing worth with a T5 swap? Or do they need to be swapped as well?
You'll need to match the T5 input shaft's spline count with the clutch disc's hub spline count for starters. Some measuring of the input shaft and input bearing retainer lengths will also be necessary, but I'm going to guess the clutch disc, pressure plate and throwout bearing all will need to be changed.
Depends on what you’ve got and which adapters you use. In general, the pressure plate and throw out are ok, but as above, the disc has to match the input shaft splines. Some adapters require shortening the input shaft about 1/8”. Otherwise it’ll bottom in the crank. This isn’t a big deal. When I did it the engine was on a cradle and we assembled the bellhousing and transmission. Measured where it bottomed, cut it with a cut off wheel (covered the rest of the input so nothing got to the bearing). Checked it with clay, no pilot bushing. Check the engagement of the clutch disc on the splines. Check the throw out bearing. Much easier as you go than slam it together and then finding trouble. Who ever you buy the adapter from should be able to tell you all this. And some adapters are rotated, particularly if designed for an early bird. Gets the shift handle almost thru the original hole in the floor. Probably not a concern or necessary in your case.
John Mummert is your best source but I think the early Y block is a orphan might not be as simple as the later Y. I did a T-5 to a 292 with Mummerts set up.Real nice as can run 3:55 gears for the street and still get overdrive cruse @ 75 mph in 5th
While there’s some peculiar things to the 239/256 Y’s, I’m pretty sure the bellhousing/clutch/crank flange are the same. I’ll second John Mummert as a source. If you’ve got a good running 239, go for it. But when it’s rebuild time go find a decent 292 core. It’ll be cheaper than dealing with the 239 rebuild, and a far more useful engine. Is the 239 in the Model A you list? Would also be helpful to know your location.
Going to the link that Nickleoneposted TECH: Ultimate T-5 Article | The H.A.M.B. (jalopyjournal.com) Brings back memories of a couple of friends putting mid 60's or 70's 4 speeds in Y block or FE powered cars with the 49/63 Bolt pattern for the trans.
Wouldn't it be ejust to get a 3 speed with overdrive. You would have the same result as an economical hiway cruiser while keeping the old school cool of column shift. Plus it's a simple direct bolt in.
Car bellhousing, not the big truck on with the motor mount ears? If that’s the case you probably want one like I used in the ‘bird. Straight up, shorten the shaft. As to the shifter location and what handle to use, you’ll have to measure that out yourself. Based on engine mounting, seat placement, and desired height. Here’s the link to Mummert’s site. Read the notes. The picture shows the earlier straight up version like I bought probably 15 years ago. If John can still get those, that might be best. Like the site says, better to call. Might be a little tough to get ahold of. http://www.ford-y-block.com/t5in-cars-bird.htm
I have a s-10/blazer t5 behind the 239 in my coupe. I had to get a clutch kit for an 1988 Astro van (Part number 04086ST15) so it matched the 14 tooth spline on the input shaft while also being 11" diameter to match the F-100 pressure plate. For the throwout bearing I had to weld a sleeve onto the input shaft to bring the OD up to match the F-100 throwout bearing ID. This way I can use the factory clutch fork/pivot. I used the Offenhauser adapter plate (part number 5173 I believe. This may have been superceeded to 5204 and HOLY HELL is it expensive now). Hope this helps.
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