Y-Block Upgrades

Almost forgot -If you are"going thru your valve train?". Make sure cam and lifters match or it could go flat quick THese are flat tappet motors with todays oil. So also use an additive/assembly lube /EOS and something like Rottella T. Break in in at 3000 for about 15 mins.

AND by all means try www.y-blocksforever.com for more. The best advice is there on these engines.

 

Yeah you sold that right before I got my engine. You guys still have all that other Y block stuff ? (312?)
Hows the car coming by the way?

 

John Mummert offers 4 different pushrods sets depending on your heads...

PUSH RODS:

5/16" tubular replacement 1956-1959 heads set of 16 $59.00

5/16" tubular replacement 1954, 1955 heads set of 16 $59.00

5/16" tubular replacement 1960-64 heads set of 16 $59.00

5/16" Chromoly specify custom length set of 16 $135.00

 

That dyno chart shows decent torque throughout the rpm range and about 260 hp at 4000 rpm.Should make for lively performance in a lighter vehicle without reving the shit out of the engine.

 

Here's a pic of our 98's that y'sguy mentioned installed on an original intake on the y-block that is in Barry's wifes car.

 

Nice, Here's a nice setup on a 58 2 door Wagon in Sweden.

 

I'm just doing the rockers and pushrods ... thanks for your concern though. I put in a new cam and lifters when I built the motor in the fall. I broke it in and I run it with the old-formula (CI-4, high zinc) Chevron Delo. No problems so far.

 

Looks nice!

 

Won't any of the pushrods work, because of the adjustable rockers? I have '56 heads but I just ordered the late style tubular rods. RockAuto lists them as a replacement for all the Ys.

 

I'm going with the chromoly pushrods way stronger

 

The Rock Auto tubulars were an exact length match for the solid round bar type originals that were in my '56 312 motor.

Don't get spooked over the use of "Chrome Moly" material (or lack of it) - while the strength of the material is higher - they use less of it to keep the weight down and it's stressed right up there. The 5/16 tubulars are probably strong enough to bend the stocker rocker arms.

One of the biggest known causes of failure is the use of "too long" intake manifold bolts that can run down into the pushrod tunnel on a "Y" and deflect them sideways. Always take a light and look.

 

Good info, thanks

 

how long do the bolts need to be? does anyone have an exact measurement? i need to find this out pretty soon... taking my car to the shop wednesday to have some things done to it and fabricated, and after that alls i gotta do is put on the radiator, do some electrical stuff and put the front end back together...

 

Well, however deep the threaded section of the head is, plus the thickness of the intake flange, gasket, and washer are. As long as nothing protrudes into the head itself, you'll be set. I should be popping my old intake off to install my Edmunds in the next few days. I'll find out the exact length of the bolts needed if nobody chimes in before.

 

I've been flip-flopping more than a politician about whether to re-build the "Y" from my '55 Country Sedan or up-grade to something modern. The pendulum is currently over on the "re-build" side. There's something classic about these things, Thanks for the tech support.

 

Oh yeah, end the flip flopping. Y's are unique. They'll make a bunch of horsepower for you and sound is unique as well. that firing order, doncha know! 1-2-7-3-6-8-4-5

 

I had a 292 and 3-speed out of a '57 t-bird and I sold it for 400 bucks, makes me sad!

 

5750-113 heads are some of the best production Y-Block heads at 72ccs, it should scoot!

 

did you ever get the length of those bolts by chance???

 

Who makes these headers??

 

Y-Block is the same as a flathead- 1 5 4 8 6 3 7 2.

 

Are you numbering the cyls like a GM? 1234 passenger side and 5678 drivers side it is 15486372 just like a flattie.

 

Bill, you're exactly right. my bad. Thanks for the catch - I had the rotation backwards!

 

We've been manufacturing Y-Block 6 carb manifolds for a while now, and they look and work great, we can drilll them to suit 3 bolt or 4 bolt carbs.We also have other items for Y-Blocks that we are manufacturing such as Finned Valley Covers, Y-Block To C4-C10 Bellhousings and many more products in the works such as Finned Rocker Covers, Finned Sumps, 1X4, 2X4 ,3X2 Manifolds etc,etc.
Chopper
www.kustoms.com.au

 

anyone got those measurements for the inlet manifold bolts? since they have to be a specific length, i dont wanna take the chances and use the wrong sized ones, so if someone could maybe take theirs out and measure it, i'd be thankful

 

These are made by Reds headers a copy of the former Hedman headers for a Y block.

 

I'll have the measurements for you by Friday ...

Thursday I'm helping a local Y-block owner do a tuneup and a few gasket changes. While I'm in there I'll measure the bolts. I also just picked up another Y for myself today. If I pull the intake manifold on this one first, I'll post the measurements from that.

 

Be careful of Red's these days. My brother got a set for his '57 F-100 with a 272 and they were excellent, fit perfect, great welds and all.. Then recently a clubmember (Elrod) got a set and they needed some help. I think he posted about them a while back.

 

So I have a set of rebuilt 113 heads on my bench. When I get time they're going on my 292. I'll probably change the pushrods while I'm in there. From reading everyones responses, I take it the Mummert pushrods are the way to go?

 

Same here. 1957 Ford Custom, .060 over 312, 12:1 Jahns pistons, Crane cam & springs, Carter AFB (sometimes had 2X4 WCFB's) Damn thing ran like a bat out of hell and with a 4:10 axle launched like crazy. Warner T-85 with OD (later Warner T-10). Fantastic motor. Finally put a rod though the side of the block and was replaced with a stock 312 out of a Merc and still ran like hell. Like ya say, was soooo much fun whippin' Chevy's and bigger motor Fords. That's back in the day!!