Hot Rods Yes it’s still Possible.

Ok so maybe I wasn’t through with dash diving after all.
Gas gauge took a dump ( yes ran all the test and know that is it). So out comes the dash cluster but wait that means the colum and steering and all have to come back down to get to it /remove /replace /and reinstall and re***emble. It’s all in now and all is back functioning.
The new gauge how ever comes from the right side to the actual fuel setting. Got transistors /etc instead of the factory electromagnets -but it works and looks the same.
So now back to that heater. Lol it was 70 plus today.

 

And when I say heater I mean the switches to the factory harness. Finally traced and figured that out. The factory harness has /was diesigned to have more than one heater arrangement. Go figure Thankfully mine has the simplest switch /cable arrangement.

 

Went by Tupelo rubber and gasket picked up 2 1/8 sheets of rubber matting/gasket material. 2X3 ft. Got an idea.

 

Ok. We now have a working heater with 3 speeds.
Switch works and I even drilled a hole in the back of the electric motor bearing for a drop or 2 of oil. No more squeaking when it first comes on.

 

The ultra-base model heater goes well with the stripped down vibe of the car. I knew those controls existed but I don't remember the last time I saw one. It's neat.

 

Made patterns based on factory Floor mats. Actually lay down perfect and without a single wrinkle. I like the brutal simplicity. I have possible inserts but I may not use them.

 

Question ? I want a set of seal plates that cover both grooves in the floor/door opening.
Have read that a 59-61 seal plate will bolt in and are actually wide enough to do that. Anyone have a photo ? Just a thought? Would be the final piece or else I have to find a way to secure the windlace Because no Carpet is going back in.

 

I had a huge pile of random used ones when I did my car and I ended up using these, they were from a 1965 Buick Riviera, but I think they're the same as all 65-66 GM B-body 2 doors, so Impala, Olds 88, Catalina, etc would all use these same ones.

They're wide enough to go to the edge and lined up with (what's left of) my windlace pretty well, I was pleased. You can still buy them brand new, but there's used ones around and used ones tend to sell for nothing since restorers generally don't want any unless they're flawless. I may have trimmed a tiny tab off of one corner for better fitment but otherwise they fell into place pretty nice.

Here they are on my car.


Here's a link to the repops, the link shows a complete breakdown of what cars came with these same sills. I bet you could hunt around on eBay and find some cheap used ones listed under one of those applications, or if you're junkyard scrounging you might be able to come up with some.

https://www.ebay.com/itm/1340339160...0Ln/UumHi+Pnec7zpGihusMg==|tkp:Bk9SR_TylsmzYQ

 

Nice and simple. Thanks for the info.

 

Floor plugs etc came in from Woodyz except for the kick panels. I need them for patterns. And they are back ordered.
Anybody got a set they would sale? I’d take used as long as they are complete and could make a pattern from them.

 

Decided to work on my other idea. yep like I did when I didn’t have any money for 8 or 10 wide wheels. A pair of new wheels from the 4wd days showed up for cheap as in they are yours.
Just got a set of good centers in an old reverse pair. Centers from them and the rings make a really nice set of single bolt pattern ( not the multi pattern stuff.
need to clean up but will do nice I think. Already got 4 wide Steeliest for the front

 

Cleaned up one wheel so I can prepare center. Doesn’t look bad.Also ran out of oxygen for the blue wrench. Did it with the big 4 inch cut off wheel and an air chisel.Lost no parent metal. I typically don’t use the blue wrench any more other than to dis***emble things I don’t care if they survive. Use cut off wheel or the double blade circular saw I have nick named Helter Skelter. It make supper nice cuts but it makes the hair on the back of my neck stand up when I use it. It scares the **** out of me. I respect it greatly
Didn’t get to much time today. Had to fix things around the house. And I am no Carpenter or Plummer.

 

Got everything mocked up after clean up. Need to trim the centers a very small amount. I want a loose press fit. Put them at three different back spacing. Might manage to get the chrome to clean up and leave it. Then mask and paint the rings.might just match to front runners.
I will make a quick check bolted on the car to get the actual true back spacing.

 

you are a much better welder than i if you are able keep the chrome next to it!!

 

I've had a few old wheels that were reversed or center-swapped like this but I rarely if ever see it done today. If you can get these things really square and true and welded solid, I think they'll be great looking wheels.

 

This makes the 5th set I have made if they pan out.
My 56 from high school ( photo) and another out of hamb range year truck got them first.both of those were 6 lug.

Did a set for an early Chevy 2 and a set for the dirt track car.( that was in the 80s when you made all your stuff because us little guys had to make our safety hubs. ( 8 lug ) and we were running 3/4-1 ton rear ends. They were cheap and indestructible. Quick changes were illegal in hot /super street. ).
The first two sets were done with drop light bolted on the front axle with a drop light behind it and the shop lights off. Put a bottle next to it and spun it until the light didn’t look like a strobe light. ( no I am not making this up)
Spot welded it and the welded it with a stick welder. Cleaned it up a very little and painted it to match the truck. A 4 inch grinder was a precise tool to a bunch of broke kids. ). Used a bent wire on the out side to double check.
Went 7.80 in the 1/8 which was unheard of at that time with truck that even on a diet weighed 2900-3000. 10 inch slicks on those same wheels.
I did have one set that didn’t wobble but I never liked. I set them inboard to clear the fender radius etc and they looked like s**t.

 

And again that is a hope and dream on the chrome surviving but the back edge/lip on each center arm is the only thing that was welded from the factory.
I’d kill for some real deal 3 rivet centers from a 56. They are 15s. The 57 was usually 14. They are much easier to do ( as were that style truck wheel )but they are not as thick as these so no pain no gain.

 

Got the basic set up on the wheels done.
Back spacing will be 4 and 4. Gives me 3/4 inch on the outside lip. Lost access to a lathe with a bed big enough to set up and check.( Baird Machine shop ( 100 plus years in business)closed for ever a few months ago.
Took it to Ormans Machine and they have the biggest lathes I’ve ever seen. They are going to check and true up if needed. Let’s hope I am that good. Lol

 

Mitchell - You are nonstop! Just read through the whole thread to catch up. Super do***entation with all the photos.

 

Proof that,
"Everything old, is new again" !

 

I officially retired in May. I am going and building on my terms. All I can while I can.
The only real problem and it’s not /it’s actually a gift is that I have a Willy’s/Prefect/Kadet /and this 57 going on at one time.
We are few now. Lot of my group is gone now.
We left the main scene for one reason or another. Time has been our friend. But I do miss those we have lost.
Again don’t misunderstand. I am still living the dream. And God has been good to me.

 

Wes gave me this Saturday. As it turns out he’s got several. Make a nice puke can for the 57.
Helping Wes go through some inventory over the next few weeks. Amazing how much stuff you can put in an old cotton gin. Overhead electric crane/ chain hoist is a hoot .

 

Appears the shifter will be coming off to get the Muncie trans in the 57. The mounting plate to. Lol

 

That looks really nice ...

 

Clutch /pressure plate /throw out bearing/Muncie /shifter /all in.
Got some slack in the under dash clutch shaft. I hope it’s a set of bushings and that’s all. Got to make up a trans tunnel box to attach to tunnel. Boot is to short with the tall shifter mount.
Trans went in easy. Old school. On my chest on my back. Aluminum Muncie sure is lighter than the iron t-10s/and Saginaws. Lol

 

Looks good, checking my spare clutch forks. I use a vette on the G***er.. had a few Chevelle, Camaro, one type hit frame on my 56.

 

Great score and nice execution. The car just screams for a set of Z28 wheels. I know a guy

 

Got my reversed wheels finished.
Gotta to give a shout out to Sandy. He had a large lathe that was big enough to set every thing up and they are for real true on this set. I won’t know how to act. I gave him a spec of .020. Need to do a good decrease /cleaning and prep for paint. Considering trying to save the chrome.
As for wheels that are on it they are gm rallies /with the Chevelle short centers. Gives options but I have always loved reverse widened steelies. And narrow front steelies.

 

I definitely think you should try to save the chrome. Scrub them with SOS if you have to, even if the chrome is never going to be perfect. Honestly, I'd probably do that, touch up the bad white paint spots on the front and just run them like that. They'd match the car perfectly and it'd be obvious they're not just off-t******lf repop wheels. The rest of the car wears it's old chrome and rough white paint with pride, why not the wheels too?

 

I am in agreement or at least a gray/light gray outer