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Hot Rods Yes it’s still Possible.

Discussion in 'The Hokey Ass Message Board' started by Mitchell Rish, Dec 5, 2020.

  1. Mitchell Rish
    Joined: Jun 10, 2007
    Posts: 2,324

    Mitchell Rish
    Member
    from Houston MS

    Damn heater core leaked again. I really want to keep it for nothing more that defrost. But it can leave permanent.
     
  2. Squablow
    Joined: Apr 26, 2005
    Posts: 18,398

    Squablow
    Member

    Granted, I'm in Wisconsin, but I got my heater working last year and it's been way more useful than I would have thought. Swapping out a core is a pain, but it might be worth it.
     
    Thor1 likes this.
  3. Mitchell Rish
    Joined: Jun 10, 2007
    Posts: 2,324

    Mitchell Rish
    Member
    from Houston MS

    Got it out. I put 25 psi to it in a soap vat. Short of recoring it’s gone. I am looking for a later design heater core that will swap out. And a cheaper one too. IMG_1044.jpeg IMG_1045.jpeg IMG_1046.jpeg IMG_1047.jpeg
     
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  4. Mitchell Rish
    Joined: Jun 10, 2007
    Posts: 2,324

    Mitchell Rish
    Member
    from Houston MS

    Ok Heater is back in. Had to increase height of heater box buy 3/4 of an inch. But it bolts back in. I put a modern heater core back in it. Will hook up cut off valve /install. Heater hoses later tonight. IMG_1093.jpeg IMG_1092.jpeg
     
  5. Squablow
    Joined: Apr 26, 2005
    Posts: 18,398

    Squablow
    Member

    Sweet, cut shit up and make it work, that's the hot rodder's way. Gonna be so much nicer with a working heater.
     
    brEad and Thor1 like this.
  6. Mitchell Rish
    Joined: Jun 10, 2007
    Posts: 2,324

    Mitchell Rish
    Member
    from Houston MS

    Under hood view. Even with 100 degrees today I let it run and get to temp. Still blows hotter than the outside air.Mick tells me I am strange. Lol. I put a manual cut off valve in the 3/4 hose. Used it to step down to the 5/8. Can’t tell it by looking. After it ran through a cycle. No leaks. Now to deal with the rear seal leak on the Muncie. I have a spicer yoke to swap out also. If I remember there were some groves on the old one. IMG_1100.jpeg
     
    Last edited: Aug 21, 2023
    chryslerfan55, brEad, Thor1 and 4 others like this.
  7. Mitchell Rish
    Joined: Jun 10, 2007
    Posts: 2,324

    Mitchell Rish
    Member
    from Houston MS

    Ok. Need some of you 57 guys to look in your spare parts/trim buckets and see if you have a single trim clip that holds the front of the trim on the 210 door. It looks like a dog tag and Its threaded for a single screw and no springs. The reason my front trim edge won’t sit perfect flush is that one clip is split. Only need that one
    I would be very gratefully.
    IMG_1104.jpeg IMG_1105.png
     
    Last edited: Aug 22, 2023
    chryslerfan55 likes this.
  8. Mitchell Rish
    Joined: Jun 10, 2007
    Posts: 2,324

    Mitchell Rish
    Member
    from Houston MS

    Yes I’ll pay and pay shipping. :cool:
     
  9. Squablow
    Joined: Apr 26, 2005
    Posts: 18,398

    Squablow
    Member

    I just checked my stash and I've got none to offer. I've got a bunch of loose moldings but none have any clips left in them (they tend to rot away to nothing here in Wisconsin). I've got a drawer full of random trim clips too but none of that specific one in there. Wish I could help.
     
    chryslerfan55 likes this.
  10. Mitchell Rish
    Joined: Jun 10, 2007
    Posts: 2,324

    Mitchell Rish
    Member
    from Houston MS

    It’s all good. I actually took it down and cut a piece of steel ( from a Chevy truck hood. ) and drilled a hole/ bolted the factory clip to it and spot welded it. Went to hardware and got some new 8-32 screws. Cut to length. All good
    Thanks for looking though. It wasn’t the cost it was just getting them here and only needed one. But it’s all good now. IMG_1109.jpeg IMG_1110.jpeg
     
  11. Mitchell Rish
    Joined: Jun 10, 2007
    Posts: 2,324

    Mitchell Rish
    Member
    from Houston MS

    New yoke on and rear seal in the Muncie. Back U joint was good so installed and called it. IMG_1113.jpeg IMG_1115.jpeg IMG_1114.jpeg
     
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  12. Mitchell Rish
    Joined: Jun 10, 2007
    Posts: 2,324

    Mitchell Rish
    Member
    from Houston MS

    New lens/bulbs and socket bases. Not to bad. 71478956298__E5D3033F-145A-402B-AF26-DD4513A893A3.jpeg 71478954153__56727AA7-3639-43E6-8C3E-E09459042C23.jpeg
     
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  13. Mitchell Rish
    Joined: Jun 10, 2007
    Posts: 2,324

    Mitchell Rish
    Member
    from Houston MS

    Relays and harness modifications to headlights. Much better. Gonna use a voltage regulator cover to hide the relays. Need to find one of the big Delco Rem cover maybe like on big trucks etc. 3X2X 1 1/2 deep. IMG_1127.jpeg IMG_1128.jpeg 71513608020__B99188A2-7124-4A3B-8B8D-E2AC77E2DFE2.jpeg
     
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  14. Mitchell Rish
    Joined: Jun 10, 2007
    Posts: 2,324

    Mitchell Rish
    Member
    from Houston MS

    Look what just came to the front door. This should do very well. 71522018658__921374F7-B4C2-4020-9BF2-D413A2F5B72E.jpeg
     
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  15. Mitchell Rish
    Joined: Jun 10, 2007
    Posts: 2,324

    Mitchell Rish
    Member
    from Houston MS

    Ok. Now it’s on. And the relays are gone too. IMG_1141.png IMG_1140.png
     
  16. Mitchell Rish
    Joined: Jun 10, 2007
    Posts: 2,324

    Mitchell Rish
    Member
    from Houston MS

    One front wheel complete. Waiting on the arrival from AZ on the other one then I’ll repeat again. By the way thanks Squirrel for finding the other wheel for me. 71608563383__43202A64-318E-4310-B060-15A08DD83CC2.jpeg
     
    Last edited: Sep 11, 2023
  17. Mitchell Rish
    Joined: Jun 10, 2007
    Posts: 2,324

    Mitchell Rish
    Member
    from Houston MS

    I took a little time to clean up /attempt to polish the tach that Wes put in the 57 originally.
    Almost all of the rust was removed but after a lot of time trying to polish it ain’t gonna happen. Got the rust gone for the most part or as much as is possible - but the pits are there to stay.
    SO- I decided to paint it the color of the top of the dash and the bottom dash belt line.
    Remember the insert and column are a metallic silver so this should set off about right.Lens IMG_1181.jpeg IMG_1182.jpeg IMG_1183.jpeg IMG_1186.jpeg IMG_1187.jpeg IMG_1188.jpeg IMG_1189.jpeg cleaned up well enough.
     
  18. Mitchell Rish
    Joined: Jun 10, 2007
    Posts: 2,324

    Mitchell Rish
    Member
    from Houston MS

    Ok wheel showed up today. Welded up the holes they drilled for slicks. And painted to match the other one.
    Thanks Squirrel IMG_1194.jpeg
     
  19. squirrel
    Joined: Sep 23, 2004
    Posts: 59,686

    squirrel
    Member

    you're welcome! looks like a matched pair now....
     
  20. Squablow
    Joined: Apr 26, 2005
    Posts: 18,398

    Squablow
    Member

    Those will look good on there. Period correct, and just wide enough to put a bit more tire on there without being too wide.
     
    Thor1 likes this.
  21. Mitchell Rish
    Joined: Jun 10, 2007
    Posts: 2,324

    Mitchell Rish
    Member
    from Houston MS

    Now what tire ? The rear is a 235 70 R 15. (28 tall) The front runner steel wheels are 6x15 bias front runners. Barely 25 tall. Two much rake for anything other than mid 60s to 70s drag look. I would like some rake maybe 1-1 1/2 shorter. That’s gonna be a 215 or a 205 75 I am thinking. I would like the closer to stockish width.
    Also I have to remember that the disc brake set up I used pushed them out about 3/4 of an inch.
    This is the rake and set I have on now. These are 4 wide. And yes they are what you think.
    Drag strip look perfect. But I honestly have never had much luck with front runner narrows on the highway. On the track nonissue at all.
    The set I am prepping will give me a little more width (5 ) and allow me to look at putting the stock dog dish style 55-56 hub cap. Sorry the 57 version is the worst looking one to me.
    Up for suggestions on tire. Again I am thinking a 215 or a 205.
    Also if anyone has a set of the small 55-56 caps used( scratches and faded is preferred I am looking for a set of those also. IMG_1195.jpeg IMG_1195.jpeg
     
  22. squirrel
    Joined: Sep 23, 2004
    Posts: 59,686

    squirrel
    Member

    anything wider than 205 will look really "fat" on that wheel. I'd try for 185. 195 would probably be perfect, but really hard to find 75 or taller profile in that size. 205/75 is pretty common.
     
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  23. Mitchell Rish
    Joined: Jun 10, 2007
    Posts: 2,324

    Mitchell Rish
    Member
    from Houston MS

    Indeed. And so the search for them begins
     
  24. Mitchell Rish
    Joined: Jun 10, 2007
    Posts: 2,324

    Mitchell Rish
    Member
    from Houston MS

    New wheels and tires. I like that the wheel and tire sits closer to the edge of the fender lip but not to close. Seems to fill the wheel well up more. This is a 195/65R/15. That alone makes the rake a little more tolerable. Came off the rack for 100$ for the pair so I may learn to like them. The first photo is with the other steelies and 6x15 bias ply. The last 3 photos are of the new combo.
     

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  25. loudbang
    Joined: Jul 23, 2013
    Posts: 40,346

    loudbang
    Member


    Looking good. Now don't take it apart again LOL. :rolleyes:
     
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  26. Mitchell Rish
    Joined: Jun 10, 2007
    Posts: 2,324

    Mitchell Rish
    Member
    from Houston MS

    Lol. I don’t think you will have to worry about that. I am close to starting the Prefect s paint and interior. And the Kadet as well.
     
  27. Mitchell Rish
    Joined: Jun 10, 2007
    Posts: 2,324

    Mitchell Rish
    Member
    from Houston MS

    Proof. I just reinstalled the original ( to the car when Wes built it (like before I was born ) tach. It looks like a Divco but actually has Balkalamp ( The old Napa brand )on the bottom of the screen.I actually used the corner speaker bolt hole so I didn’t drill the dash. I ran wires through speaker screen. This one was the rough speaker screen. I have another spare.
    Yes it still works. Perfect. Lol IMG_1203.jpeg
     
    Last edited: Sep 16, 2023
    brEad, Squablow, Thor1 and 1 other person like this.
  28. Mitchell Rish
    Joined: Jun 10, 2007
    Posts: 2,324

    Mitchell Rish
    Member
    from Houston MS

    Took 57 to the river to put on the lift and start the exhaust.Wes was Big Boss today. Probobly the first time he has seen the underside in many years.
    Forgive the left side spot welds. I forgot to turn on the shielding gas. Looks rather ruff. Got the first two bends completed and spot welded.
    Bought a tubing kit and I’ve had these big sonic turbos for ever. Might as well use them. IMG_1279.jpeg IMG_1280.jpeg IMG_1274.jpeg IMG_1275.jpeg IMG_1277.jpeg IMG_1278.jpeg IMG_1276.jpeg
     
    Last edited: Oct 2, 2023
    brEad, Thor1, 41 GMC K-18 and 5 others like this.
  29. Mitchell Rish
    Joined: Jun 10, 2007
    Posts: 2,324

    Mitchell Rish
    Member
    from Houston MS

    Exhaust back to the rear end complete . Over the rear end and last tail pipe sections now. I removed fuel tank( fuel cell in the trunk) and spare tire well. The tail pipe will tuck in and up and won’t be visible. Turn down just at the bumper IMG_1302.jpeg IMG_1305.jpeg IMG_1304.jpeg IMG_1303.jpeg
     
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  30. Mitchell Rish
    Joined: Jun 10, 2007
    Posts: 2,324

    Mitchell Rish
    Member
    from Houston MS

    Exhaust system complete. And I am pleased.
    Putting the table and fence on the bead roller. Gotta cut one more slot and then back together.This will allow me to move pretty quick as I make foot/1/4/kick panels. I also need to make a wider set of door seals. IMG_1337.jpeg IMG_1338.jpeg IMG_1339.jpeg IMG_1340.jpeg
     
    brEad, Thor1, Squablow and 2 others like this.

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