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Projects Yet another F1 build starting up!

Discussion in 'The Hokey Ass Message Board' started by drptop70ss, Sep 25, 2013.

  1. drptop70ss
    Joined: May 31, 2010
    Posts: 1,223

    drptop70ss
    Member
    from NY

    Tank set in from underneath after trimming the inside of the lower rails slightly to give enough room.

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    Side view shows the tank is not too low and should be hidden by the rear fenders.

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    Frame notched for the fill pipe

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    Inside of the rail boxed

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    I reused the old smaller crossmember that was in the way on the frame as the rear tank mount. Straps will mount to it.

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    Tank set in place to check clearances, looks good

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  2. 52lomofo
    Joined: Jan 29, 2005
    Posts: 822

    52lomofo

    need more updates more pics lol
     
  3. gicknordon
    Joined: Oct 11, 2012
    Posts: 64

    gicknordon
    Member

    you know i replied to this a while ago and didnt even realize this is the same build i commented on over at the fte forums haha!
     
  4. drptop70ss
    Joined: May 31, 2010
    Posts: 1,223

    drptop70ss
    Member
    from NY

    Hi, I am trying to keep it alive here but some of my parts decisions are not welcome here :) so I dont know if it is really being followed here. More detail over at FTE.
    Anywho the weather has now gotten cold so updates may be slower, but the latest update from last week was the front sway bar installation. The jag sway bar fit the ford frame like it was made for it, mounts even lined up with one of the factory ford rivet holes. Only problem is I should of done this before I boxed the rails so if you do the jag install do the sway bar mounts before boxing the rails.

    Here is the factory rivet hole I used, ground off the rivet head and knocked it out.

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    2nd hole drilled using the bushing mount as a guide

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    Made these plates from 1/4" thick steel and welded 3/8" nuts on them. There is a lot of stress on the frame at the bar mounts and I dont trust just drilling and tapping the frame. These will go inside the frame rail.

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    Cut open my boxing plate and welded the sway bar plate inside the frame rail

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    Patched up and you can see how the bushing mounts goes in place. Welds will be cleaned up before paint.

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    Hopefully that is good enough for now, good to know the build is being followed here. More updates are coming as long as I can keep my hands warm!
     
  5. drptop70ss
    Joined: May 31, 2010
    Posts: 1,223

    drptop70ss
    Member
    from NY

    I am way behind on updates, but here is one.<p>This is the pedal set I am using, 4th gen F body, also using the matching master cylinder and booster.

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    After some trial and error I figured out the booster has to be recessed into the firewall to get enough pedal travel and to have the clutch master cylinder mount up cleanly. So made up a quick box out of scraps.

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    Box into the firewall

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    Hole for clutch master done

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    All bolted up, looks good.

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  6. drptop70ss
    Joined: May 31, 2010
    Posts: 1,223

    drptop70ss
    Member
    from NY

    Havent updated in awhile! We have made progress.

    Pedal set bracing made and installed

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    Floor piece cut my favorite place, donor body panels from cars I scrapped!

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    tacked in place

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    Steering connected, finally a steering setup with only one ujoint.

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  7. drptop70ss
    Joined: May 31, 2010
    Posts: 1,223

    drptop70ss
    Member
    from NY

    After playing with a few different exhaust options these headers looked like the best way to go. They are swap meet specials, after checking the tag they are pacesetter headers for late 1980s-mid 1990 chevy trucks.

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    To make them work I cut off the collectors and extended the pipes down to the frame, as they were the collector was in the way of the steering shaft.

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    Started mocking up the duals. I had a 2nd gen camaro flowmaster exhaust on the shelf, another swap meet deal, so it gets cut up for the truck. I was going to run glass packs but I think they will be louder than I want, I go to work pretty early in the AM and no need to wake everyone up.

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  8. drptop70ss
    Joined: May 31, 2010
    Posts: 1,223

    drptop70ss
    Member
    from NY

    trying to get this caught up, floor pan work in progress

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    Drivers side cut out

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    Panel made and installed.

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    Made the panel with a harbor freight bead roller, did a quick upgrade on it and made a stand from a rim and a driveshaft tube. Too cold to paint so will get painted in the spring.

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  9. drptop70ss
    Joined: May 31, 2010
    Posts: 1,223

    drptop70ss
    Member
    from NY

    Front floors and tunnel getting tacked in place. All caught up now on the build, time is flying but I still plan on having the truck on the road this summer.

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  10. 52lomofo
    Joined: Jan 29, 2005
    Posts: 822

    52lomofo

    need more the rear flip should also work on 48-52 ford panels as well???
     
  11. drptop70ss
    Joined: May 31, 2010
    Posts: 1,223

    drptop70ss
    Member
    from NY


    The flip will work if you set it all up the same was as I did, but remember I am using 2000 Dodge Dakota springs and mounts. Nothing is left of the original Ford rear suspension other than the upper shock mounts. With the rear shackles flipped I would need to C notch the frame, right now with the shackles as they are I think I can get away without it.
     
  12. scrapheap51
    Joined: Mar 12, 2011
    Posts: 19

    scrapheap51
    Member
    from Oregon

    Nice build, I used the Dakota springs as well on my 51 panel truck. But I also used the front suspension also. Great build.
     
  13. drptop70ss
    Joined: May 31, 2010
    Posts: 1,223

    drptop70ss
    Member
    from NY

    Thanks, I think the Dakota stuff is going to work out well. Do you have a build thread? I like reading the build threads, keeps me motivated.
    I have the trans tunnel pretty much done now along with the front floors, forgot to take pics. This is the final tunnel pieces in place.

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    Heated and bent the gas pedal to work with the LT1 throttle cable, had to make sure WOT is really wide open :)

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  14. drptop70ss
    Joined: May 31, 2010
    Posts: 1,223

    drptop70ss
    Member
    from NY

    Front right cab corner repair, not too bad

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    Started cutting out the rot

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    Inner welded up

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    Patch made up and welded in, 3 more corners to go.


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  15. drptop70ss
    Joined: May 31, 2010
    Posts: 1,223

    drptop70ss
    Member
    from NY

    Work continues!

    Left front repaired

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    cab flipped to start fixing the rear corners, worst part of the truck.

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    rocker rust cut out

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    Cab mount and the floor cut away so I could repair the crossmember.

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    Skipped a bunch of pics but this is the repaired rocker and crossmember.

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    First part of the rear floor welded in. I am going to lose the factory lever mounts and go with modern style rubber mounts in the rear.

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  16. drptop70ss
    Joined: May 31, 2010
    Posts: 1,223

    drptop70ss
    Member
    from NY

    Havent updated this post in awhile, here are more pics for those interested.

    Floors were finished, new inner cab corners made and 1/8" thick steel support plates installed.

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    Modern mounts installed from an S10 cab

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    Frame boxed where the new mounts line up with the frame

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    Frame in primer

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    painted semi gloss black

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  17. drptop70ss
    Joined: May 31, 2010
    Posts: 1,223

    drptop70ss
    Member
    from NY

    throwing a few pics up in case anyone was following here and is not over at FTE..Cab is in the process of getting a haircut.

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