You want to buy a 'good' quality spray gun to paint your hotrod - save some $$$!

Great info. Lotsa bull threads, but every once in a while, just basic, easy to understand, threads will make it all worthwhile.

 

One last thing - for those of you who are "Old School" like me . . . from back in the 'suction pot' and 'pressure pot' gun days, you'll save a ton of material with a good HVLP or RP gun.

I probably wouldn't of cared as much when a gallon of black lacquer was $20, but when a gallon of primer can be WAY over $100 . . . material costs really come into play! This is the primary reason I don't use my Binks #7's anymore - I waste too much material . . . or $$$$ using them.

Dale

 

The Devilbiss "Startingline" HVLP guns ain't bad either....and a little cheaper too.

One thing you (well us) old dogs need to consider is that if you are a home hobbiest and your space is limited....a HVLP gun puts more material on the surface and not in the air. That equals LESS MESS!

I use a HVLP for primer but still like my old guns for paint and clear.

 

This is not a 100% true. This said, I'm sure there are some really cheap POS guns out there. But I still have that $39 binks# 7 look a like paint gun. It has lasted 20 years as my main clear coat gun. I am (was) a professional painter in a genuine body shop for almost 50 years. That cheapie gun still works as good today as it did 30 years ago when I bought. I still throw a little paint through it. Like I said, if it isn't deformed in some way, it will put on just as nice a paint job. **for the record, I am in no way saying the $500 fancy gun is no good. And if that is the gun you want and can afford, I'm positive they are very good piece of equipment.

 

What Paint Gun are you using that costs $50?
Glenn

 

It all comes down to knowing how to use the gun and how much you will be using it... This is straight out of my Iwata LPH-400...

 

We've probably bought and used a dozen HF gravity feed guns over the years, when they go on sale we buy a couple at a time. For priming and stuff like spraying a frame they are fine, and being so cheap if I am too tired at the end of the night to clean one out I just toss them.

We also have a Finishline gravity feed and it is surprisingly good. It gets used for the stuff that has to look nicer, like bodywork, interiors, and stuff like that. I guess if a person were a pro painter, putting on expensive paint jobs, a really good gun like a SATA would be preferred, but for us hobbyists the ones I mentioned do a reasonable job.

Don

 

I bought this set of guns brand new but at an outlet for $50. Obviously, chinese stuff but I have hopes they'll wok well enough for my purposes. I know ZERO about painting but I'm willing to try on a fender at a time to see if I can pull it off.

http://www.tptools.com/pl/Images,ti...279_Vaper-2-Gun-HVLP-Paint-Spray-Gun-Set.html

 

i am so bummed that the only pic i took of my car in fresh clear was a low res cell phone pic. not worth posting.

but i can tell you that the car was a mirror.

i had previously shot about 10 motorbikes and a couple other odd jobs with ebay 3 gun sets. learned me tons. this was my first complete.

i used a durabloc 007 system which i still use.

here's the finished product... i know its a bit out of focus, but its still mirror smooth. inexpensive guns and lessons learned. excellent results..

 

Have had a Binks #7 for years great old tool.

Got a deal on a used SataJet RP and love the way it applies clear!


Getting ready to repaint a 56 Buick special and will be looking for a 1.8 HVLP primer gun.Will ask the guys at the supply shop about the finishline gun.

 

I am back to work on this old gal. It has been waiting a long time. I wanted to see what I could do with the cheapest Harbor Freight gun and cheap single stage Nason paint (no clear). I wanted an old style lacquer look. This is the progress so far.

I seems to me that there are only 3 critical parts in a spray gun. The needle, the tip, and the air cap. Of course all these parts have to fit together correctly.

John

 

By the by .. as always ,it's not the arrow , it's the Indian!
The high priced guns are for people that have the guns pay them , for the rest of us ,the clones are fine. Same deal with musical instruments.

 

Exactly, those guns wouldn't last 6 months with daily use but for the hobby guy they are fine.

 

I've got a $40 Binks #7 knock-off swapmeet special. Served me well for tha last 20+ years or so. I'm no painter by any stretch, but that gun works great for a hack like me. Important things, I take to a pro. For the occasional hobbyist, it's tuff to beat that tried & true workhorse design. I have eyballed the Iwata that TP Tools sells for about $125, anyone have any experience with that one?


http://www.tptools.com/p/3104,372_Air-Gunsa®-by-ANEST-IWATA-HVLP-Finish-or-Primer-Gun.html

 

Great article....... What most people don't realize is you can buy the best but it is the hands that lay down the paint. An experienced painter with a $50-$100 gun can do a nice job.


I have the utmost respect for professional and home builder auto painters. My older brother was a car painter and between jobs I use to help him. Anybody who has done auto body paint knows what goes into a good paint job. I never had the patience.

 

Going to Harbor Freight at lunch. Might as well get a back up gun. I have seen the Finishline finishes and they are outstanding. Good thread.

 

a high dollar gun might help the novice painter alot more than a cheap gun can.a cheap gun doesnt help anyone except the manufactures of them. a mid priced gun can do eevryone some good.but a sata gun in a pros hand is perfection.my son strives for perfection me on the other hand i just will paint for myself from now on so a decent gun is all i require.

 

I used a new Devilbiss Starting Line Gun on an OT Musclecar and it wins First Place at Car Shows over and over again. It came in a 3 gun kit for $ 150.00 (ish). I also have a Accu Spray and actually like the Starting Line Gun better !

VR&C.