Technical Zinc in oil ???

There are many questions concerning the use of or need of zink in the oil in older cars. Question here is, if running additives such as Lucas Oil Stabilizer with your oil, should the zink still be necessary ??

 

Yes. Flat tappet cam engines need it, more so if they are new and/or have high valve spring pressures.

 

Yes, buy Lucas Break in Additive and put half a bottle in with every oil change. Your cam and lifters will love it.


Don

 

Read here www.ZDDPlus.com They are an Alliance Vendor here - last one on the list.

 

Already mentioned. ZDDP good stuff.

 

anyone else? i'm getting ready to replace cam in sbc and really don't want to do it again so i would like to know about zince additive also.

 

You are going to get opinions all over the place, but I have been using Lucas Break In Additive for years and never have had cam failure or wear. So, naturally, I like it. After break in I add half a bottle with each oil change.

I've already got the pan on my current 394 Olds filled with oil and Lucas and have periodically been prelubing the engine with it.

Don

 

In reading the specs for Mobil DelVac diesel engine oil I note that it has very high zinc content. Is this adequate zinc protection?

 

I used Valvoline VR1 racing oil on my last oil change, it claims high zinc content, I was using rotello Tand also added ZDDP, my flat tappet cammed engine was built in the 80's raced 3 years in a dirt track car, stored for 20+ yrs. in the back of a truck under a shed, when I got it from my partner and put it in my A now its drag raced

 

Every time this subject comes up oil 101 can be found here:

www.bobistheoilguy.com

 

OK, this has always baffled me. Why pay the price of good oil, plus the price of additive for each oil change? When you can just buy Brad Penn oil that has the zinc in it for $75 a case of 12 qts.? Considering Most any decent oil will cost you $5-$5.50 a qt. and additives are $13 a bottle.

 

Yes. I have used Rottela for years. Same but different. Available anywhere trucks fuel up.

 

Because lots of us can't buy Brad Penn locally and when we want to change our oil we run down to Autozone or Advance Auto and simply pick up the oil, filter, and Lucas Additive right there. Not even sure where you buy BP oil.

Don

 

Go to wally world and look at Mobil 1 15/40, As I under stand all 15/40 or higher viscosity oils carry Zinc,

 

No one wants to hear my thoughts on it. Let me say yes zinc is good stuff especially when you are breaking in flat tappet cam shaft. Also running a quality cam and lifters is a good idea. Off shore lifters are a major player in cam failure.

After talking with and reading what major builders have to say about it ( along with reading what vendors of zinc additive have to say) I have some to this conclusion, most cam failure comes either during cam break in or shortly there after. If you engine makes it the first 30 miles it is probably good to go, proper cam break in burnishes the lobes and the lifter face. Once burnished they are pretty durable.

In my own vehicles I run straight off the shelf Castrol no additives. It works for me. I don't recommend it for others unless it is an engine that I built. Better to err on the side of safety and run a good additive in your old car.

I personally prefer the GM break in additive unless I can get my hands on a full pans worth of that sweet smelling **Castrol break in oil.

** Castrol break in oil is right up there with unobtanium.

 

The cam suppliers sell what they call break in additive. I use COMP cam myself. I add it ever oil change, if you order 12 at a time online the price is not bad at all, I think around $9 or so.

 

times 2

 

I use Amsoil "Premium Protection" 10W-40 in my flat tappet sbc. Also available from Amsoil is "Z Rod", and both are high in ZDDP. (Full disclosure, I am an independent Amsoil dealer.) I believe in the Amsoil products and use them in everything from my diesel truck to my weed eater. But will be the first to agree there are other good oils out there. I used Joe Gibbs break in oil for first few hundred miles, but Amsoil now has a break in oil also and I would most likely use it if I were to build another engine, with flat tappets especially.
However I don't agree with using ANY diesel oil in a high revving gas engine form 2 reasons:
#1 is that diesels have a problem with soot getting in the oil, and oils rated for diesel use are formulated to keep it (soot) in suspension so the extensive filtration systems on most all diesels can filter it out, instead of it settling out in the engine as sludge. This additive is in all oils, but in a way higher percentage in a diesel oil. A quart is a quart regardless of various additive percentages, and some other additive that may be better for a high revving gas engine may be left out or reduced to make oom for the soot dispersant. Plus you most likely don't have the high filtration capability of most over the road diesels to remove solids of such a small size as soot..
#2: Diesels run at a much slower rpm than gas engines, especailly hot rod engines, and have less need of the additives that reduce foaming, or aeration, of the oil. All automotive oils have anti-foaming additives, but diesels turn far less rpm, many have a rdline BELOW 3000 rpm, and have less need of anti foam additives. Foam is air introduced into the liquid base, or oil in this case. Air isn't much of a lubricant. I don't need think I need to elabotate further.

 

Brad Penn may be hard to find, and is around here, but Valvoline VR-1 is readily available, including Rural King, and a local hardware store! It has all you need without additives, and is priced close to regular oil.

Agree 1000% :-)

 

I buy this at Wally World. 1100 PPM Zinc @ $3.00 / qt. FYI

 

V8 Bob X2. Why would anyone not trust an oil company to add the correct amount of ZDDP's and Phosphorous to their product? Engine oil is 75% mineral and 25% additives in suspension. Adding too much ZDDP's is as harmful as not enough. FYI, Valvoline VR-1 has 1400 PPM of Zinc and 1300 PPM of Phosphorous. Why would you use anything else?

 

Ok I'm gonna jump in here....I always put VR1 in my F100, but on my Sunliner I have used normal Valvoline and I found a STP product claiming to have zddp in it that I have been using.....thoughts?

 

http://www.bobistheoilguy.com/forums/ubbthreads.php?ubb=showflat&Number=2330040#Post2330040

 

This does not relate to the oil company not adding the correct amount of ZDDP, it is about catalytic converters and roller cams. ZDDP is damaging to catalytic converts and is not required with roller cams (less is required). ZDDP is needed with flat tappet cams/lifters and high valve spring pressure.

 

Didn't the second post in this thread identify the ZDDP issue?????

 

sounds like shell rotella is the stuff to run.

 

You can get it on Amazon.

 

I just received 3 5 quart jugs of Lucas Oil for Hot Rods from Summit - about $75.00 for 15 quarts. Additive already in it.

 

I started running diesel oil in my rigs, it's supposed to have more good stuff in it

 

I don't know why I even bother to type a reply!!!!!!!!!!!!!!