If I do a "By the Book" Z on Tudor, what modifications do I have to make in the rear floor? Does a stock seat fit over the top? I haven't gotten that far on taking my car apart to see how it will all work. Any info or pics are appreciated.
I am just looking to do the traditional Z, cut the last 4" of the frame in front of the crossmember, move it up so the bottom of the rear portion is level with the top of the rest of the frame and weld it together with some gussets.
There should be a wood block between the frame and the inside channel of the subframe back there. By doing the minimal step, you are basically eliminating the need for this wood block. Poke your head under there and it should become obvious. Do a little bit of precise measuring to make sure you get the step the exact same thickness as the wood block.
There is so much more to what you're asking than any one simple answer. You've given us zero information. If "by the book" was the answer you'd just follow the book. To start with do some math laying under your project. Next would be to tell us the total combination you're using. It all starts with your specific vision of final stance, then some Homework. Are you aware that the top frame flange is NOT parallel to the bottom flange? You can't just stack one on top of the other and start welding.
Here is a frame I built but the back Z would be the same. It shows how I did mine. https://www.jalopyjournal.com/forum/threads/no-frame-build-my-own-model-a.1076697/
I want it lower but not slammed. My current plan is to use some reverse eye springs to drop a few inches front and back and then to use a '32 front axle to get a little more drop in the front. I also plan to step/Z the rear based on the info in the book, "How to Build a Traditional Hot Rod" This seems pretty common and strait forward method to get a few extra inches of drop in the back. It seems with some 5.50 or 6.00 16 tires in front and some 7.00 or 7.50 16 tires in the back that I will have a decent stance and frame rails more or less parallel with the ground. The plan is to make a bit of of a box to clear the frame and suspension in the rear most panel, as mentioned in the book, but I am wondering if anyone has pictures of that in a Tudor and if I will still be able to mount the rear seat.
Is your drive train (motor rear Axle) stock? Are you going to keep the fenders on? If you want the Frame parallel to the ground basic Math will do you a lot of good. How does it set now the way the ch***is is? How much drop in the rear will it take to get parallel? A dropped front Axle will add mor drop to the rear along with the Rubber Rake. Set a base line and do some Math prior to cutting and changing anything. If you don't do any homework, you're just jumping off into the good luck zone. If you truly know what you want in the end using a tape measure is your best option.
Would you believe me if I told you this frame sits level to the Ground and the orange running board mount is 6" off the ground. Add to that the floor pan is totally FLAT from the toe board/firewall joint all the way to the panel below the deck lid. The only bump is the bump for the spring hump in the crossmember as a stock floor is. Also, the Frame is not Z'd at all. Started with a Finished Vision, a Tape Measure and some Math. Yes, the Body is Channeled but that does nothing for ground profile of the Ch***is.
Keeping the original engine, trans and rear, getting rid of the fenders as they are pretty ratty. I didn't know that a dropped front axle would lower the rear. The plan is to swap out the springs and see where it sits then decide if I need to step the rear and drop the front any more. The springs will likely get me where I want and tire size can fine tune the rest. Like you say, some maths and a tape measure will be consulted along the way.
View attachment 6313342 That car has a great stance. What are you running for springs? Any modifications to the crossmembers?
A dropped front Axle will Not change anything with the rear. What it will do is add to the amount you need to drop the rear to get the ground stance you say you want. My ch***is runs Stock springs front and rear. It's the Axles and placement of springs that I changed. It's just a little Fab work but far less involvement than required when doing the "By the Book" method. I never was any good at following someone's instructions to get done what I want.
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