Hot Rods ZIP WATER PUMP RISER FACT THREAD!!!

made it... just waiting on the aluminum pump..

 

Good Lord! And I thought that Pontiac pulleys were a pain.

 

Mine are all fine and line up with no problems.

 

Mine all worked fine. 3 of them. Even put one on a Desoto. Did cut some ears off though.

 

thanks for the pics,...makes it a lot easier to look at what you did rather than amagine.....

 

does the pump fit the zip, or all differant??? any pics???

 

Here’s a few I’ve installed/used.
Top one not painted yet, but might leave as is.
Bottom pic was one I trimmed both ears off and used a lower alt mount.
.

 

There was one hiding in plain sight on this 32 that I saw Saturday.

 

Well, finally got the aluminum water pump.... spent the day hunting down 1/2 to 1/2 fittings... then a couple hours looking for my 1/2 pipe thread tap, finally went and bought a new one... so now all I need is about 6'' of 1/2 heater hose to be done... that and a new top pulley and fan...

 

update,... got-er done.... works perfect... went from running 220 and up in traffic @ 85 ambient to now runs right at 180 in 104 ambient... the one thing I didn't check was the stat.... must be a 165 in there... might go up to a 175

 

Cool....got a pic?

 

Somec trick solutions there.

 

My cope runs several degrees cooler all the time since I changed to Zips.Hot day AC on no issue

 

Ofilleys had a replacement pump for the 230 Chevy six that had the cast impeller like flower cooler used

 

Thanks for this information . I am swapping out engines this summer in my 32 and have everything in line . I thought !
I had forgotten about zips. Thanks again.

 

Just a quick question for those volunteering info/help. Do I understand it correctly that with a stock Chev water pump you need either a heater connected or a bypass from water pump to manifold? Thanks

 

what it does is,... the small hose sucks water out of the manifold and pushes it back into the block. this gets all the coolant to an even temp.. with out it the water in the block doesn't circulate till the stat opens, by then the block coolant has got to hot and the rad. struggles to cool it before it reenters the block... hope that makes sense , as there are alot that say it's nonsense and say take the stat out or drill holes in it...

 

I never did put the shroud on... runs cool with out it... probley be a winter project...

 

2FORCEFULL : Thanks, You learn something everyday.

 

till you get to 60, then on you forget something every day...by 70 you end up with CRS

 

Wait until your 80 and your still changing your own oil….1/2 zimers.

 

2 forceful where did you get your water pump.my there would no way yo tap heater outlet

 

^^^
The one I pick up was from autozone aluminum , also make one one cast iron,
I also tapped , (pipe) you can also tap to SAE thread & chaffer for O ring

 

I cut all but about 1/4 of the nipple off then dilled and started tapping, the nipple ends up too thin to tap

 

I had no problem drilling and tapping mine.

 

Yes its kind of thin there , but No problem , watch how deep / tight you screw in pipe fitting / tap ,,,
its only for water !! Not a motor mount!!

 

also, a uni bit made drilling easy as you could see the hole get bigger and keep it straight on the car, any future I would do it on the bench before it goes in,...I need to do it on my wifes RPU, but she doesn't like me changing things on her pick up, always thinks it will never run again... I took her 55 apart years ago... took like 3 years before she could drive it again ...but it was bad ass when done

 

looks like you used a smaller fitting than the one on the block, and I'm sure it works fine....on mine before I did the mods,.. at 80 ambient, It would climb to near 230, so I wanted to go as big as I could to get as much water flow, also went with 1/2 heater hose.. also, I don't know if you can get the cast with the cavitation plate, they say the aluminum is a super cool pump, don't know if they mean it cools better , or "LOOKS" super cool on an aluminum head motor....LOL