Hot Rods ZIP WATER PUMP RISER FACT THREAD!!!

speedway/summit

 

I checked there, they are out of stock. Any other suggestions?

 

Guess I’m just lucky. My 350 runs 180 tp 185 unless setting at idle. Then just over 190. Engine driven fan.

 

^^^^^^^
Just depends On engine ,
& Other factors ,
& where you get / take temp from etc.
Many Brands of engine have a Hotter Temp middle to Rear of Block /Heads then Front , add more gauges & you will have different readings

 

I believe Zip p***ed away, and no one took over!

 

That would explain why everyone is out of stock. This is typically how my luck works.

 

Check vintage air

 

Out of stock according to the webpage

 

This is what I was thinking ,
Last time I talked with was close to
10 ish year ago .

 

make some more....

 

on installs , all the pics i've seen... the fan ends up in the center of the rad..can't amagine why that wouldn't work... if it works on some and not the others... sum ting else wong....

 

Couple things.

Dorman bleeders work better than Zips screw.

If running a heater with a Zips, the use of a byp*** heater valve which will allow the coolant to circulate when the heater is off.

 

I have a Sno-White for my SBC. They were out of Fresno, and functionally quit similar. They might be a good subs***ute if zips products are no longer available.

 

I think Sno white late 60s
Before Zip
Or could be thinking about Meth injection manufacture in the late 60s,
I know Meth was used in WW2

 

First one I ever saw was on my dad's model A. I had to repair a leak on the byp*** hose. Thought it was odd, but effective pulling coolant from rear corner of the block.

 

Had one on my 34 ford since 1990.
Heat , ac, not a big problem!
It does seam to run a little hotter with ac on?
The big thing is to run the bigger pulley on the crank.
Was thinking of going back to regular sbc pump,
And see if it runs any cooler?
Note! car would ge hot in traffic , but never overheated on me!
I put over 200k miles on it!
At the time it was the best thing available!

 

Hey guys I have a question on my zips drive. I have a very healthy 283, solid roller bumpy cam and afr aluminum heads, 3 stromburgs, all the goodies. It also has an Afco radiator and a 16” flex fan. When I got the truck the temp would swing from 160 to 210ish in traffic then go back to 160 on the highway. It had no thermostat so I put a 180 stat in (drilled) and it would hold 180 for a little while then it started to creep past 180. I ***umed a shroud (it had no shroud) would fix the issue so we built a nice shroud. It moves some serious air and helped then it started swinging again. I realized he stretched the belt from the crank to the water pump and it was slipping not allowing the fan to turn at speed. I built a tensioner bracket and put a longer belt on and it worked good then overtime it started sweeping again. The heater port on the water pump was capped the whole time then after reading about it and the instructions I built a byp*** from the water pump to the head between 6 and 8 cylinders like the instructions say. I bleed the **** out of it today, pulled the air bleeder screw at the top of the riser and all that. Now it stays about 190 cruising but when you stop it almost immediately starts to creep but not erratically swinging like it did before. It’s kinda like the byp*** is aiding in the overheating. Should I remake the line and go to the top of the manifold? It’s just baffling me that this is not something I can seem to fix. I uploaded pics of the byp*** the shroud and the tensioner. Maybe someone can give me a path to start down. High flow water pump? Smaller water pump pulley? Bigger crank pulley? **** I’m pullong my hair out right now on it. Thanks in advance.

 

@DREW148BHP
Sounds like air still in system ,
Some times hard to get air out.
did you Jack front up
or
Vac down coolant system .
Where are you taking temp from ?
From my experience you can add
2,3,4,5,6 temp's & get all different readings as much as 30 degs swings.
I have ran with & with out byp***.
Thinking & maybe to small or not
circulating .

Yr Timing @ idle , ? should be around
16 deg BTDC @ true TDC & some in 25 or more .
Sounds like a lot but some engines like .

What are yr pulley ratio
crank & water pump ?

Test use wrench 10 inch or so long
turn Alt nut & see if engine turn to know if belt tight enough.

No coolant Vac tool
Another trick I have drained coolant down & then pulled thermostat
fill the block threw intake medium speed , wants filled in intake let set for few mints , then keep adding coolant
until no more air ,
then install thermostat then slow medium speed fill rad with blender open turning water pump by hand .
This because water pump high & top hose high .

 

Not with a Zips; but had the same thing; 160-175 cruising in free traffic but; climbing to 200+ in stop and go. Built a shroud; ended up 180 (shroud probably restricted free air flow some) or so cruising in free traffic and barely getting to 195-200 in stop and go. Can also let the car sit in the driveway running and never gets over 180. Considered it fixed.

Can't really see clearly in your picture; but it looks like your fan is kinda deep in the shroud.

Does your pump have the solid back or disc on the impellor. Rivet on disc made a difference on a friend's car.

 

Like @RICH B
if not add a simple dic to propellers.
Me I do change's one @ time so I try to find witch was cause or improvement,

 

https://www.jalopyjournal.com/forum/threads/zips-water-pump-riser.1352977/page-4#post-15934186

 

@19Eddy30 thanks for all that info. @RichB On the shroud the fan isn’t exactly in the middle (depth wise) but pretty darn close and it will move some air to the point of being able to throw a welding glove at idle and it will **** to the radiator and hold.

I always fight it with air in the system. Has anyone tried the coolant vac kit from harbor freight? Only because I can run down the street And get it?

I might just get that kit and see. I’ll check to make sure the belts are in deed tight.

I don’t know about the water pump he put in there. That was on my list of things to check and maybe just swap out with that duralast or run to Summit and get the flowcooler (nice living in Arlington TX can run 5 miles away and be at summit).

I’ll look at the pulley sizes.

I do need to find my piston stop and truly mark TDC and see where I’m at with a light. A buddy of mine tinkered with it awhile back when it was cool outside and then after it warmed up is when the gremlins started.

thanks for all the help I’ll report back as I check stuff off the list.

 

I do not know about the H-F coolant vac
Quality /working . If not take back.
When using the Vac you will need 5 gal
bucket when filling it , it will get you close to full & above the water pump .
make sure you cap off / pinch over flow hose on & @ rad cap .
Do not lite the hose **** air when it filling , If so you will need to Vac again & fill

 

Is the grill sealed to the radiator on top, sides and bottom; so ALL air coming through the grill must p*** through the radiator at idle?

 

I have some running around to do today I will swing by HF and see what the kit looks like. And if it doesn’t work I’ll bring it back. I’ve never used a coolant vac but I guess I’ll drain it all the way down then you refill it by the system ****ing in the coolant? Or can I just hook it up and **** it down like an ac vac pump and **** the air out?

 

Yes the shroud is around the perimeter of the core and sealed tight with foam gasket material.

 

I'm meaning the front side of the radiator and the chrome grill.

 

Also I really should drain and clean the cooling system out, it’s had water wetter and who knows what ratio of coolant to water etc. I noticed some white scale pieces making its way up to the top when filling yesterday.

 

No it’s close but not sealed. With a shroud sealed tight and pulling air I wouldn’t think it’s necessary for the grill shell to be sealed, maybe on the highway directing into the radiator but my issue isn’t on the highway it’s in stop and go traffic

 

Coolant Vac is design to recover coolant,
It will also collapse lines, its works like Ac vac down