yes you would have to modify the tube, or make your own that bends upright just after it come out of the manifold to clear by the back of the pump riser.
after cutting off all the ugly brackets, some time with the die grinder, file and a fast trip to the polisher, iam really digging how mine is turning out.
bjinx, you can see in my 2nd pic, if i had the oil filler tube in the manifold it wouldnt clear by the riser.
I had to ding the **** out of it. easy enough though. I dont think it will come out with out me pulling the riser or manifold. I forgot to add that the next time the riser comes off Im cutting the accessory brakets off.
noclubjoe, I'm running a Fenton tri-power with Rochesters on my 283. The fill tube won't quite clear the water pump riser. My first solution was to shorten up the fill tube for clearance, but it was so short that I was getting some oil blowing out. Then I found a chrome sink drain tube at my local hardware store. It is thin metal, so it was pretty easy to put a strategic dent in it for clearance, and cheap too!
I have used two gens of zips but I always struggle the best way to handle the smaller water hose port on the top right p*** side. I have taken a rubber furniture cap and used a hose clamp I have used an expanding hose plug but in both solutions the rubber cracks. What is the best way to block this off as I don't run a heater or air? I run a 350 can I run a hose back to block?
Thanks for all the comments and pics, noclubjoe. By looking at mine I kind of felt like it would have to be modified but wanted to hear what others had done. I am going to order up riser as well as a set of Tanks saddle tanks this week from Parr Automotive in Oklahoma while I have the money. The firewall modification is almost done, next will be sand blasting the body and primer, and installing the wood kits.
I am also running a Fenton tri-power on my 327. I found that there is enough "meat" on the Zips riser to machine it out to clear the oil fill tube. Rotary and then a hand file. Thought I would show another option. Dennis D
If it were not for the chrome, you could cut a pie section out at the bottom of the oil fill tube and angle it away from the water pump and tig weld it back together. The 67 corvette oil fill tube is painted,and has a pcv fitting already in it for your center carb.
Yes, Zip makes the housing for vintage air. He also has housings for big block chevy and the small and big block hemi's Zip 412-372-4411
Zip now has the risers for the big block Chevy and the small block and big block hemi too. these have not hit the open market yet, but if you call Zip, I'm sure he will work a deal with you. Zip 412-372-4411
Does anyone have any clear pic's on how the alternator mounts and the belt is run? Also, what do you do with the heater hose outlet off the 6 cyl pump if you don't run a heater? Don't have much use for a heater in Texas! Saw a few pic's a few pages back but couldn't make out the belt arrangement.
What about the byp*** port on the p*** side water pump opening on the front of the SMC block? The hole under the the left side opening. The Zips covers that up. Ago
You run a hose from the tapped hole in side of right head to the heater hose ****** on the 6 cyl water pump per instructions enclosed with a new Zip's riser.
Old thread but: Does anyone have the A/C brackets theyre not using? Like roadster guys and such like that there? It could happen.